Skip to main content

DIY Farmhouse Dining Table

7:21
31.7K views

Video by Mr. Build It

Mr. Build It

What happens here

This project details the construction of a modern dining table featuring a solid wood top joined with wood glue and floating tenons (Domino joinery), and a custom-fabricated metal base. The process includes precise lumber preparation, tabletop assembly, epoxy knot filling, breadboard end attachment, and finishing the wood, followed by welding, cleaning, and painting the metal base, and finally assembling the complete table.

Transcript

Hide

hey what's gonna guys alakazoo can hear from mr. bill that welcome back to yet another week in the workshop if you're brand new to the channel welcome we put out videos weekly of DIY projects build tutorials reviews the whole shebang so if that's something that you're into make sure you hit that subscribe button tap that notification about that way you know when these videos comes out so the topic of today's build is takin a timeless a classic build like a farmhouse dining table and given a little bit more of a modern look the modern approach so without wasting the time I present to you my version of the modern farmhouse table let's get into the video let's go to get started we picked up two by six by eight full long boards from a local hardware store then we started the milling process we cleaned up the edge to make sure it's straight then the face of the board and then threw it on the thickness planer followed by the table saw to get it to our absolute finished dimensions once our boards were rated Warkworth we decided to start the glue a process for the glue a process we broke it down to two separate parts three boards at a time mostly because my clamps don't extend as far once they were dry I then brought the entire two pieces together creating the entire table using the two clamps that would work as extenders let it sit overnight and then we're ready for the hard work the next day I removed all the clamps from our tabletop and I decided to start hiding all the knots that are found on the Douglas fir wood species so I picked up this five minute epoxy mix it up and poured it into each individual knot sometimes even any imperfections that are left from the planer that would get a little bit epoxy as well now even though they call it five minute epoxy I would give it at least an hour or two to dry mostly because you don't want it to gunk up all of your 80 120 grit sandpaper instead be nice and hard and that way easy to sand now to get started on our bread boards we wanted to clean up our end so I took a nice clean straight edge created a nice square line and then took my tracks off and if you don't have a track so you simply just clamp one by three board and a Skilsaw and accomplish the exact same maneuver this is just way faster now it's time to create an important part of the tabletop are the breadboard ends the breadboard is kind of work in a couple of different reasons number one aesthetically appealing endcaps but more than that they're made for to prevent the table from warping and allow for wood movement so the approach that I'm taking here is a mortise and tenon approach I'm using my Festool Domino to create these through mortises all on the breadboard end and the tabletop ends themselves the ones on the tabletop are going to be loose the one on the breadboard side are gonna be tight the one on the tight fredward' side are gonna have tenants going in fixated with wood glue and the ones on the tabletop itself the loose ones are only going to have one center part that's actually gonna be glued everything else is gonna have through dowels coming down once everything is said I then extended a few different clamps and secured everything in place once the breadboard ends were clamped on ohs time to lock them in place so to do so I found exactly where the Tenon's were going through and I took a half inch Forstner bit went all the way through that tenon laid down a little bit of masking tape to keep the area clean took a half inch dowel I believe minor oak covered it with wood glue and installed it in place once that was dry I then took a flush cut saw and trimmed it to size then it was time to clean the area up to wrap things up on our tabletop I used a circular saw to chop off and clean up all the excess breadboard ends to keep a flush of the table then I took my sander with 80 grit to 120 to 220 grit cleaning up the entire tabletop the edges and especially blending the dowels down with the breadboard ends once that was finished I took my palm router with a 3/8 round over bit and I grooved out all the edges to make him as smooth as possible getting ready for the finish when it comes to applying finish Douglas fir and pine tend to be pretty blotchy when it comes to applying stain so to prevent that I use a pre stain this is particular time I'm using a product from Vera Thayne I applied it with a sponge brush that's usually my go-to method I let it sit for 30 to 45 minutes before wiping off all the excess with a rag once the pre-stain is ready for the actual stain I apply the stain using the same method spent rush this is a product from Minwax it's a color code weathered oh one of my personal favorites and very subtle to get the exact color that you're looking for I usually apply one to three coats let it sit for about two minutes and then wipe off all the excess with a rag then I let it just dry and cure and do whatever it needs to do now while that does do that I'm gonna go build me some metal legs [Music] after we're done welding right before we lay down the paint I use acetone on a rag to clean the metal and to give it as bare surface area as I can it's usually covered in grease from the steel shop to keep it from corrosion and so this gives you the best opportunity have the best paint job so for paint I'm using a paint and primer from Kryolan it's an automotive acrylic enamel it's white it sprays very well but being metal be very careful to watch those run off now when it comes to installing the tabletop to the table base and using a panel glue up kind of system you always want to consider wood movement wood will move whether it's hot or cold warm dry humid not humid so what you want to do is kind of give it the best opportunity to move without being loose on your table so the way I do it is you typically create a larger hole on the table base itself keep the slot or the hole on the tabletop itself very snug and then the screws that I use will have a washer the washer will keep if the screw from coming out of the large hole allowing for it to move on the table base itself and keeping the tabletop snug so that's my approach there's a couple other little Hardware pieces you can buy it but this works very well and of course to wrap things up I finish it off with about five coats of clear coat polyurethane the water-based stuff and it's ready for serving [Music] well that is it for me this week thank you so much for watching these videos guys it does me in the world to me make sure your comment down below give me your opinions about this welding is this something you know how to do is something you've actually been thinking about getting into if so let me know I'll like to make a little bit better tutorial of how to weld make sure you hit that subscribe button tap that notification about comments share this video with your friends on Facebook and everywhere else tuning out this week we'll see you guys next week see ya bye

Auto-generated from the video audio.