Lego Table With Storage

all right to get started I'm using a full 4x8 sheet of maple cabinet ply from my local hardware store it's roughly around 50 to 55 bucks what I'm using here is this blue drywall Square it has a perfect straight edge that I can walk around and kind of Trace out all the pieces that I'll need that way to limit the amount of off cuts and amount of waste also saving a bunch of money so I'm cutting everything with a tracks saww to break it down to be able to be brought onto my table saw where I'll be cutting everything to its final Dimensions all right when breaking up sheets of plywood you saw me using a tracks saw a track is simply a fancy version of a circular saw that's allowing you to break up these sheets create a nice clean cut and typically minimizes the amount of tear out as well now if you don't have a track saww that's not a deal breaker when working with finer sheets of camet grade plywood what we can do is take your regular old circular saw now attaching a nicer blade to it this is a 60 to ultra fine finishing blade from Diablo it minimizes the amount of tear out and it really works really well they also have a 24 to one that's specifically if you're going to work with 2x4s or 2x12s specifically softer ply where that needs a big fast quick cut and then you know finish up the details later on so I hope those steps help you guys and let's get back in the video now I will be uploading everything on my blog in terms of plans but in the meantime I'll go over the plans real quick for the top it's 36x 36 in the thickness of the top is 2 1/2 in keep in mind these are all mitered so they're not thickness in full and then the legs or the stem is 12 in x 12 in x 18 in tall I have a three and an almost 6-year-old so this is a really good appropriate size for them and then for the base of course to prevent wobble I found that 22 in x 22 in by of course 2 and 1/2 in thick to match the top prevents and limits the amount of wobble on this table now when it comes to the Joiner method on this project I went a little bit different direction I decided to use my router table with lift from Craig tools and I partnered it up with a Freud locking miter locking bit now if you're wondering what miter loocks are for they're really you can avoid using them by just using a table saw the reason I want to use a miter loock system is if you're going to use a 45° angle on your table saw and just put the things together well you need to use either a brad nails or B some kind of clamping jig and it really takes a long time so with this is this is a little piece that I kind of cut out and throw away I hope you can see that you see a little tongue and groove on both sides I kind of push in that prevents one to slide off the other usually if you have 2 45s they will Swish and slide on you so this kind of prevents doing so once you add some glue and overall it looks really good I mean that's pretty tight so it's toy Now it worked really well and the cuts were on the outside really clean now let me explain on that part when using these bits you have to run one piece of wood horizontally flat and the other piece vertically now horizontally part is fine now the vertically part that's where you have the majority of the chipping on plywood and I believe it only happens on plywood because it's kind of Against the Grain there's most amount of resistant and it tears the pieces out the good news is where it tears out it tears out on the inside P of the miter so if it's a cabinet that you're making with drawers I'd probably not use these bits i' maybe just use a regular miter cut on your table some uh but if it's something like this where you won't be able to see it unless you really climb underneath it uh this would work just fine for you also if you have full dimensional Lumber or essentially just solid wood this will work fantastic without any kind of tear outs once you've made all your cuts on your rter table and ready to assemble get all the clamps that you have in your workshop and a bunch of wood glue my go-to is always tie bond to when it comes to assembling it's really easy specifically the bottom part and then lining the edges or the sides the hardest part is the top and the reason why is because everything is like a lockin key tongue and groove method the last piece of the puzzle is going to have some resistance so in order to actually get it fit snug you're going to have to pull and try some of the Pieces away and then push it all together at once to kind of hug together it takes a little bit of an effort don't get frustrated but when it does come together it's so cool seeing all the edges line up perfectly so I am sanding the plywood right now uh this is maple ply it's finished great so you got to be very careful the veneer is not very thick on top so what I like to do is I just use the 150 grit sandpaper to get rid of as much of the glue that's still left on the residue Smart Choice probably would have been just to take a damp Rag and wipe it off while the glue was still settling but you know we can't be perfect any who I'm going to tackle that on I'm going to pray that I'm not going to take off all the veneer and then uh we'll do some wood filler on things that you know didn't come out so perfect after everything was saying it smooth I then did a dry fit and then looked for any imperfections that are there and patched them up with wood filler I'm no saint sometimes these things happen and fortunately enough we have things to fix it with once it's done I then traced the legs exactly where the Lego shoot basket would go once I trace it out I then accounted for the 3/4 in wall then I use my new Ryobi brushless drill and driver combo set to create the holes the pilot holes in the corners and then I use my jigsaw and then cut it out exactly how it needs to be a little Pro tip you can use that same drywall speed square if you want to kind of help guide the the jigsaw to make a smooth and of a straight cut as you can now for the actual assembly of all the components I'm using wood glue first to set the tabletop to the legs and then the legs to the base once the glue actually dries I'm then using a ton of el bracket Now by a ton I mean eight so essentially four for the top and then four for the legs if I was to do it again I could probably use double that and the way I kind of mounted them is first I did the legs to the tabletop underneath you can't see them which is awesome and then the legs to the the base via the inside part of the legs where the Lego pieces would go and it just does a fine job my kids are three and five well almost six and I just know they're going to climb on this thing and it's just destined to break if I don't put these things in for the actual finish of the project here I got the project down to 150 grit sometimes you can do 220 in fact sometimes I think they recommend that I'm using a product by Minwax called weathered Oak it's one of my favorites not to mention my wives uh two coats is what I used uh for application it's really easy as well you can use a foam brush which is probably my favorite I was out of foam brushes so in this situation I just used a rag which turned out just fine as well so I got this really decorative piece uh from my local hardware store it's a trim piece it's uh I want to say it's uh well feels like Pine but it's nice it's got these little squares on it to match the the feeling of a Lego brick set so while the stain is overall drying here this is the trim part that's going to kind of encapsulate or trim out the opening where the Legos will go and hold the the mesh basket that holds the pieces from falling down so I'm going to put a coat of stain on it once it dries I'll miter it up and trim it all out now for the actual mesh sack that will hold the Lego pieces in the middle I found this delicates bag at my local Walmart it's like 2 to three bucks it's super cheap it's 15 in in diameter and then the depth is about 25 in deep once I measured the amount I needed I cut out the waist and I secured in place holding with the trim pieces and then secured the trim piece pie with a brad nailer and it worked out really well and then the rest of it that was sticking out I cut the excess off with a really sharp utility knife blade uh it took my time not to cut too much that way not damaging the veneer and it was just a nice good clean flesh cut now of course for the finish I'm using like always a waterbased polyurethane it's a satin so you don't get too much of that gloss on it I'm applying using the hlp sprayer from home right it just there's no diluting that's needed it's just kind of plug and play and shoot uh it worked out really well and I applied about four coats knowing that my kids are monsters and they're going to do everything they can trying to destroy this and finally once the clear coat was dry it was ready to install the Lego base they're 10x10 pieces I got eight of them you can buy them online or at your local stores for roughly around six bucks a piece I'm installing them using Liquid Nails this stuff is tough as Nails you got it uh just a quick application and I made sure to just keep the symmetry of it using like a level so basically the thickness of my level is from The Edge and then I just make sure everything was Square down the middle as can get and overall turned out really good guys really proud of [Music] this well that is it for me this week thank you so much for shop by and watching this video If you guys like these kind of videos make sure you hit that subscribe button right over there we put a video out every single week we don't want you to miss a single one if you're brand new to the channel we have a couple other videos right over here for you to check out and let us know what you think tune out this week we'll see you guys next week see you bye