Entryway Console Table

OK. So, to start this project, we purchased one-inch thick untreated white oak from a local woodworking store . It needs to be processed. This means we have to run it through a jointer , a planer, and finally a sawmill before we can start working. The final thickness will be three-quarters of an inch. So, my exact dimensions that I chose for the product are: 34 inches tall, 34 and 7/8 inches long, and 14 inches deep. Returning to the wood itself: if you don't want to spend time on the processing process, you can purchase an alternative option, for example, ready-made glued pine boards, which are sold in hardware stores. I don't know if you can find anything else besides pine. So this is something you will have to come to terms with . We've already made the sides, the top, and the drawer will be in the middle. We haven't started making drawers yet. See these scraps over there? The boards are about 8 feet long. So we have about 20 inches left. So I'm going to use them as a prop. If you see, here I have the middle support and the bottom of the drawer. They are not required, but it would be nice to prevent loosening. Here's what I'll do. I'll finish them, make them pretty, and use them as drawer supports. Quite understandable. I don't... Okay, bye. Let's go. Now, if you do decide to go with the raw wood approach. Once the milling is complete, I like to glue the shields together. For this I use Titebond II carpenter's glue in combination with these pipe clamps . Once it dries overnight, the next day I take my Festool Rotex sander and turn on the rotary mode, which essentially turns it into an angle grinder, but with good dust collection, and start smoothing out all the joints where the glue has come out. Now, regarding the external joints of the table—these will be joints at a 45-degree angle. There are several ways to achieve this. I use a plunge saw. I set the bevel angle to 45 degrees and cut like this. This works well, especially if you have clamps under the workpiece that connect to the saw's guide rail. If you don't have one, don't worry. You can use a circular saw with a guide clamped, or the best way is to make your own movable carriage for a 45- degree saw and have someone hold the piece from the side while you saw it. In my opinion, this is how you can get the best result. The entire project was assembled using Festool dominoes . This is essentially a hybrid between a dowel joint and a tongue-and -groove joint. This allows you to significantly speed up the process thanks to this tool. Each joint has a tongue and groove. If you line everything up correctly , you shouldn't have any trouble putting it all together like a puzzle. My friend Jen Woodhouse runs a great woodworking blog called House of Wood. I'll leave a link to it in the description below. We collaborated with her on this project, and she kindly created some wonderful blueprints so you can use them to replicate this project yourself. I won't lie, the most difficult part of this project was the method of joining using the Festool dominoes . Mostly because once you've drilled the holes for the studs and prepared the grooves, you can't just insert the parts in any order. Each detail depends on the previous one to fit together, like a puzzle piece. I know it's a little confusing, but I hope you get the point . I think if I were to do this project again, I would probably assemble everything with wood glue, clamp it in place , and then drill a hole and hammer in a dowel to hold the pieces together. As for the drawers themselves, I made them from two different materials. Quarter-inch oak plywood for the bottom and half-inch oak plywood for the sides. I did this to keep the design light and not too heavy. Regarding the dimensions : for the bottom, the quarter-inch plywood was 12 1/8 by 14 1/2 inches. And the sidewalls were 3 and 3/4 inches high. The dimensions for them are: the front and back walls are 14 and 1/4 inches, and the side walls are 12 and 3/4 inches. Let me remind you, this is half-inch material for the sidewalls. Don't worry about remembering these numbers. They will be in Jen's drawings. With them everything will be simple and clear for you. As for assembly, I made a rebate about a quarter of an inch from the bottom of the very sides of the drawers, a quarter of an inch wide and three-eighths of an inch deep. This allowed for the insertion of a quarter-inch panel . Assemble everything using carpenter's glue and finishing nails. Okay, drawer front panels. They are probably my favorite part. I made them from poplar, mostly because it's a hard wood that stains well and doesn't have many knots. The dimensions are 6 inches tall and 33 and a half inches long. I came up with some interesting geometric patterns and used a ruler to transfer them to the wood. Then I used a plunge saw and made slots about three-eighths of an inch deep. I just had fun creating all these different patterns. The most important part is hand sanding all the little grooves you've already cut with the saw. After that, everything needs to be sealed. This way the paint won't soak into the wood like a sponge. To do this, you can either buy a wood primer or, as I like, use shellac. Shellac is a water- based product. You can apply it with a spray bottle to seal the surface. Now you have a smooth surface to which the paint will adhere well. For painting, I used lacquer paint from a local hardware store. It was a white color, which I liked. Once everything was dry, I applied as many coats as possible to make the paint look rich, even, and, most importantly, without streaks . Finally, for the finish, I chose Danish oil, mainly because it's easy to apply with a cloth: just wipe and let dry. The nice thing is that it retains a beautiful natural look. It may only darken the texture a little, but it's the perfect result we were aiming for. For hardware, we chose 12-inch full-extension ball bearing slides from a local store. After installing them, it's time to mount the drawer front panels. Now, regarding the facades: it is very important to keep them even, as the pattern transitions from one panel to the next. For this, in my opinion, it's best to use a glue gun. Secure the drawer fronts with hot glue. Let them dry. Carefully pull out the drawer and secure the front with screws from the back. Thank you very much for watching this video. I hope you liked it. Like, comment, and share with friends if you wish. If this is your first time here, subscribe to this channel. We release videos every week and we don't want you to miss any of them. Many thanks to my friend Jen, who collaborated with me on this project . The link to her website will be in the description below. Check out the plans for this collection or any other that Jen offers. Follow me on social media. See us this week. See you next week. See you later. See you later.