DIY Plywood Herringbone DinningTable

hey what's going on guys after news we're gonna hear from mr. bilder and in today's video I showed you how we're gonna make this hang long dining room table using plywood in an add bonus feature I'm gonna show you exactly how to start welding so you can make these beautiful ladies yourself so without wasting time let's get into the video let's go to accomplish building the tabletop you will need one four by eight sheet of MDF that will be the base of the table top and one sheet of the three-quarter inch maple applied toward the actual finishing top now for the MDF once I laid it down in my garage I like to lay down on top of some foam insulation either they use it for garage doors this makes it perfect for making cuts on the ground I laid all my cuts out where it'll be thirty seven and a quarter by seventy seven and a half that's just for the base itself I use my tracks out or if you don't have a track side you just use a circular saw with some straight edges and I made my cuts with the cut off pieces I didn't want to scrap them and throw them away instead I came up with a way to reinforce the base with MDF so I threw a blade onto my table saw eighty tooth blade I usually use this for plywood to prevent any kind of tear out once I got installed I then took whole new scrap pieces that I cut off and I ripped them all into one inch thickness this is gonna be the reinforcing parts underneath out of the MDF once all the pieces were cut I then brought them over back to the original cut the 37 in a quarter by seventy seven and a half and I laid a framework completely around the perimeter of that sheet and then I also created a grid pattern down the middle now remember it's 1 inch deep or thick if you will use a little bit of wood glue and set Brad nails to secure it in place and it was as solid as a guest [Music] once the MDF base was ready I then brought over the maple plywood that I needed first I trimmed off to two pieces our two and a half inches wide this would be basically the wraparound apron for the tabletop then I just cut it right in half just to make it easier to work with and I've brought her over to my table stop now at this point this would be the herringbone for the shiplap pieces if you want to call him that and I ripped them on my table saw at six inches wide keep in mind that a 80 tooth blade that we talked about earlier that's a perfect blade to use on these pieces to prevent or minimize the amount of chipping that happen I then came back to my MDF base and I found the center line now this would be the center line where all the herringbone patterns will be pointing and then from that point on it's a whole lot of wood glue I always use tie bond - if you've seen any of my previous videos and then I rolled it with this roll on kind of wood glue dispenser and I secured it with the 18 gauge brad nails into place once I got about 95% of the way the pattern on I then took my tracks out or you can use a straightedge if you will and I trimmed off all the pieces that were overlapping I then took those pieces and I continued finishing off the pattern without having to go buy more plywood finally once all the last pieces are on I did my final trimming and I was ready to secure the perimeter when it comes to securing the perimeter or wrapping of the apron around I had the two long pieces that we cut earlier of the maple pie but I stole neither the two shorter pieces so I just ran off and I bought a four by two sheet of the maple ply at my local hardware store and that was enough to get the job done I brought it over to my table son I beveled my blade at 45 degrees I use a little sled like this on my table side just to make a better cut but you can always use just a skill saw and that'll work just fine just take your time at that point on I just use plenty of wood glue and again Brad nails and secured all the wraparound aprons into place and wait for the glue to dry [Music] the table legs or the base are made out of a two by two oh nine five which is sixteen gauge steel tubing I'm laying it down on my Babb block from certified well tables I'll put a link in description forget to check it out I'm ensuring that they're symmetrical and straight and spraying a little bit of anti splatter spray on and keep my walls nice and clean and then I'm dropping down a few welds that are gonna go at a nice slow pace this is a pretty thin material and it's really easy to burn through but if you wait here in a second I'll show you a couple of tips and tricks to get yourself started welding in no time alright guys I know a lot of you have really showed a lot of interest in learning how to weld but really feel intimidated by it but I promise you it's not as intimidating or scary or even hard as it looks I'll show you the setup that I have and I'll show how easy it can be few things you need to consider when it comes to welding is getting yourself a Weller that could potentially well the material that are going with so the welder that I have is this is a Hobart 140 and there's something special about except the fact that you can weld up to 1/4 inch thickness of steel roughly video a welder has two basic settings the amplitude or the voltage and it has the wire speed controller on it first thing you do before dialing your settings in will do is figure out the material are working with in my situation I'm working with the material that the wall thickness on it is oh six five meaning it's point zero six five of an inch roughly sixteenth gauge if you will then based off of that every welder for the most part everyday welder has under the hood of it the actual little cheat you that you can look at the settings that you need so let me show you mine so right over here it'll tell me the exact gases are working with the material that I need to use and the wire that I'm working with and it'll tell me the exact settings so in this situation face off the material that I need and my setup on my will there I need to put three on my amplitude or the voltage and I need 35 on the wire speed we come over here we set three on our voltage and we set 35 on the speed we fired up now the last thing that you know is there's basically two techniques when it comes to welding the pattern there's an e technique which it's a cursive e or there's a Z technique where it's basically a Z and that's all we're gonna do so let me show you what this looks like as you can see here all I want is a nice cursive little eat pattern and this is what it came out with so there you have it not difficult at all just get yourself the initial setup and then a little bit of practice and you'll be making your own furniture so in the meantime I'm gonna get back to finishing the rest of these legs let's go when it comes to welding big projects like this it's always important to keep things 90 degrees so I'm really glad I have a jig like this from certified weld tables that allows for me to clamp other pieces to it and keep it at a ninety degree when it comes to welding big projects like this it's also a great idea to tack weld everything first when you tack it on it just holds it momentarily it's nice and light and then once it's connected and kind of stabilized you then can finish off all your weld without having your material move too much when it heats up and cools off when spray-painting things in my garage I use this paint shelter from home right it just symbols like a camping tent once it was up I then use a little acetone to degrease the entire project of the steel that stuff gets pretty nasty pretty quick and I laid a few coats of the painted primer in the flat black turned out really great once I was dry I had the Misses bring over the tabletop to the table base and I was ready to start putting the veneer edge banding on top of the apron if you've never used this kind of stuff before at 20 before basically just iron it on and then use a scrap piece of wood to start kind of leveling it out and pushing a deep down to make sure that it sticks to it pretty well in pieces give it a nice little quick miter to it just to give it that illusion of one solid piece the nice thing about this technique is though it's a little bit of cheating it's not real wood it's plywood which is a lot stronger than MDF of particle board so you'll at least have that feature and knowing the wood won't ever move then you just take a sharp razor blade cut off the excess and here's a key feature to make sure it's nice and smooth use a little scrap piece of wood with 150 grit sandpaper and start sanding it flush to make sure there's no harsh abruption to give it that perfect one solid piece look when you're done once the veneer is done I then patched up all the Brad nail holes with the wood filler this is a time color indicator that it goes on Pinker than when it dries it goes this cream color i sustainable so it kind of works really well I then filled in all the holes including all the cracks and crevices just to give it a solid piece to prevent any kind of dust or debris going into it and then I sanded everything smooth using a hundred fifty grit sandpaper be very careful don't take too much of the veneer off use a little hand sanding when needed afterwards and then when it comes to applying the stain I'm using a color called fruit wood from Minwax this first time using it and I can't tell you how much more the missus and I love it it gives you this cool warm feeling to it it's a very light application so there's no harsh blotchiness and I think it applies very well I did one coat and then I dried everything off with a clean rag and then I was getting it ready for the clear coat for clear coats I almost always exclusively use the same stuff it's from Minwax of polycrylic it's water-based it's super easy to work with it just pours into my HVLP sprayer this one's from home right as well it applies very well and then it just a couple of coats on it really I think overall on this project I lay down about four to five coats then I think about using this kind of sprayer that is that it dries fairly quickly once all the coats were on and the clip coats was nice and dry I then flip the table top over and then I installed these almost like a peg pieces if you will lined up exactly as they would sit on the table base a little bit would glue some Brad nails to hold in place and then I drilled holes that were 1h and stick into the teyla base where I could screw them in from the bottom I brought everything inside secured everything in place and voila everything looks fantastic I couldn't be happier with this project and the missus over the moon about it hey that is it for me this week thanks so much for watching this video for braiding the channel make sure to hit that subscribe button right there tap the notification bellow that way you'll be alerted at every single time the video comes out if you want to follow me on social media check out the tools that I use or check out the merch I'll put a link down description below for you guys to check all that set out tune out this week we'll see you guys next week see ya bye