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Identify the leaking supply line. Since the assumed leak is at the top, start by disconnecting the bottom connection first as it's typically easier to access. Position your adjustable wrench onto the compression nut connecting the supply line to the shutoff valve. Turn the nut counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey) to loosen it. Once it's loose, you should be able to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Be prepared for a small amount of water to drain into your bucket. Next, address the top connection at the faucet tailpiece. This is often in a tight, awkward spot. A basin wrench is the ideal tool for this job, as it's specifically designed for these hard-to-reach nuts. Latch the basin wrench's jaw onto the nut and turn counter-clockwise to loosen. If you don't have a basin wrench, you may be able to use an adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers, but access will be difficult. Once loosened, unscrew the nut completely and remove the old supply line.

You're viewing a step from: How to Fix a Leak at a Faucet Supply Line Connection

Beginner

30 minutes

2/4 Inventory

This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step process for fixing a common leak at the connection point of a faucet supply line. The process involves shutting off the water, removing the old supply line, installing a new one, and testing the connections to ensure a durable, leak-free repair.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a beginner typically need to fix a faucet supply line leak, and what's the most common hold-up?

For most beginners, this project takes about 30-60 minutes. The biggest time-consumer is often preparing the work area, ensuring the water is fully off, and carefully tightening the new connections to avoid overtightening or cross-threading.

The project mentions a 'Braided Polymer Faucet Supply Line.' Are there other types, and how do I ensure I get the right replacement?

Yes, supply lines come in various materials like braided stainless steel or PEX, which are also durable options. The most critical step is to match the length and the connector sizes (e.g., 3/8 in. compression x 1/2 in. FIP) of your new line to your existing one and the connections on your faucet and shut-off valve.

I've replaced the supply line, but it's still leaking slightly after installation. What's the first thing I should check?

First, ensure both nuts are snug but not overtightened; over-tightening can damage internal washers or threads. Confirm the supply line is seated straight without cross-threading, and visually check that the small rubber washer inside the faucet connection is present and intact, as this creates the primary seal.

Is it ever okay to just tighten the old leaky supply line connection instead of replacing the entire line?

You can attempt a slight turn with your wrench to see if it stops the leak, but if it's an older line or already tight, this often isn't a permanent fix and could worsen the leak. Replacing the inexpensive supply line ensures a fresh, reliable seal, especially if the internal washers are worn or compressed.