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Before turning the water on, double-check that the faucet handle is in the 'off' position. Now, very slowly turn the handle of the shutoff valve counter-clockwise to gradually restore the water supply. Turning it on slowly prevents a sudden 'water hammer' shock to the pipes. As the line fills with water, carefully watch both the top and bottom connection points for any signs of dripping. Use a completely dry paper towel or your finger to check around each nut for moisture. If everything is dry, open the shutoff valve the rest of the way. Turn the faucet on and let the water run for a minute to flush out any air. Turn it off and perform one final inspection of the connections to ensure they are still completely dry. If you detect a small drip, turn the water off and tighten the leaking nut a very small amount (about 1/8 of a turn) and test again. Clean up your tools and remove the bucket and towels.
This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step process for fixing a common leak at the connection point of a faucet supply line. The process involves shutting off the water, removing the old supply line, installing a new one, and testing the connections to ensure a durable, leak-free repair.
For most beginners, this project takes about 30-60 minutes. The biggest time-consumer is often preparing the work area, ensuring the water is fully off, and carefully tightening the new connections to avoid overtightening or cross-threading.
Yes, supply lines come in various materials like braided stainless steel or PEX, which are also durable options. The most critical step is to match the length and the connector sizes (e.g., 3/8 in. compression x 1/2 in. FIP) of your new line to your existing one and the connections on your faucet and shut-off valve.
First, ensure both nuts are snug but not overtightened; over-tightening can damage internal washers or threads. Confirm the supply line is seated straight without cross-threading, and visually check that the small rubber washer inside the faucet connection is present and intact, as this creates the primary seal.
You can attempt a slight turn with your wrench to see if it stops the leak, but if it's an older line or already tight, this often isn't a permanent fix and could worsen the leak. Replacing the inexpensive supply line ensures a fresh, reliable seal, especially if the internal washers are worn or compressed.
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