Remove the Old Faucet — Prepare Work Area and Shut Off Water
Part of project
How to Fix a Leak at a Faucet Supply Line Connection · Step 1 of 5
In this video
First, shut off the hot and cold water supply by turning the shut-off valves under the sink clockwise. Place a bucket underneath to catch drips. Use a basin wrench or adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply lines from the old faucet. Unscrew the mounting nuts holding the old faucet in place. Once loose, lift the entire old faucet assembly out from the top of the sink and clean the area.
Goal: Remove old faucet
- Ensure the water is completely shut off before disconnecting any lines to prevent flooding.
Used in this video
- Basin Wrench — Loosening and tightening nuts in the tight space behind the sink
- Adjustable Wrench — Disconnecting water supply lines
- Bucket — Catching residual water
- Flashlight — Illuminating the work area under the sink
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FAQs
How long does a beginner typically need to fix a faucet supply line leak, and what's the most common hold-up?
For most beginners, this project takes about 30-60 minutes. The biggest time-consumer is often preparing the work area, ensuring the water is fully off, and carefully tightening the new connections to avoid overtightening or cross-threading.
The project mentions a 'Braided Polymer Faucet Supply Line.' Are there other types, and how do I ensure I get the right replacement?
Yes, supply lines come in various materials like braided stainless steel or PEX, which are also durable options. The most critical step is to match the length and the connector sizes (e.g., 3/8 in. compression x 1/2 in. FIP) of your new line to your existing one and the connections on your faucet and shut-off valve.
I've replaced the supply line, but it's still leaking slightly after installation. What's the first thing I should check?
First, ensure both nuts are snug but not overtightened; over-tightening can damage internal washers or threads. Confirm the supply line is seated straight without cross-threading, and visually check that the small rubber washer inside the faucet connection is present and intact, as this creates the primary seal.
Is it ever okay to just tighten the old leaky supply line connection instead of replacing the entire line?
You can attempt a slight turn with your wrench to see if it stops the leak, but if it's an older line or already tight, this often isn't a permanent fix and could worsen the leak. Replacing the inexpensive supply line ensures a fresh, reliable seal, especially if the internal washers are worn or compressed.
Remove the Old Faucet — Prepare Work Area and Shut Off Water
Part of project
How to Fix a Leak at a Faucet Supply Line Connection · Step 1 of 5
In this video
First, shut off the hot and cold water supply by turning the shut-off valves under the sink clockwise. Place a bucket underneath to catch drips. Use a basin wrench or adjustable wrench to disconnect the water supply lines from the old faucet. Unscrew the mounting nuts holding the old faucet in place. Once loose, lift the entire old faucet assembly out from the top of the sink and clean the area.
Goal: Remove old faucet
- Ensure the water is completely shut off before disconnecting any lines to prevent flooding.
Used in this video
- Basin Wrench — Loosening and tightening nuts in the tight space behind the sink
- Adjustable Wrench — Disconnecting water supply lines
- Bucket — Catching residual water
- Flashlight — Illuminating the work area under the sink
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a beginner typically need to fix a faucet supply line leak, and what's the most common hold-up?
For most beginners, this project takes about 30-60 minutes. The biggest time-consumer is often preparing the work area, ensuring the water is fully off, and carefully tightening the new connections to avoid overtightening or cross-threading.
The project mentions a 'Braided Polymer Faucet Supply Line.' Are there other types, and how do I ensure I get the right replacement?
Yes, supply lines come in various materials like braided stainless steel or PEX, which are also durable options. The most critical step is to match the length and the connector sizes (e.g., 3/8 in. compression x 1/2 in. FIP) of your new line to your existing one and the connections on your faucet and shut-off valve.
I've replaced the supply line, but it's still leaking slightly after installation. What's the first thing I should check?
First, ensure both nuts are snug but not overtightened; over-tightening can damage internal washers or threads. Confirm the supply line is seated straight without cross-threading, and visually check that the small rubber washer inside the faucet connection is present and intact, as this creates the primary seal.
Is it ever okay to just tighten the old leaky supply line connection instead of replacing the entire line?
You can attempt a slight turn with your wrench to see if it stops the leak, but if it's an older line or already tight, this often isn't a permanent fix and could worsen the leak. Replacing the inexpensive supply line ensures a fresh, reliable seal, especially if the internal washers are worn or compressed.