stesso

Project

Begin by completely clearing the cabinet area under the sink to provide ample room to work. Place a small bucket directly under the water supply connections to catch any residual water. Lay down several old towels or rags around the bucket to absorb any splashes. Locate the two water shutoff valves on the wall or floor under the sink—one for hot water and one for cold. Firmly grasp each handle and turn it clockwise (righty-tighty) until it stops. This will shut off the water supply to the faucet. Next, go to the faucet above the sink and turn the handle to the 'on' position in the middle (warm setting). This will release any trapped water pressure and drain the remaining water from the faucet and supply lines into the sink. Let it run until it's just a drip, then turn the faucet off.

You're viewing a step from: How to Fix a Leak at a Faucet Supply Line Connection

Beginner

30 minutes

2/4 Inventory

This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step process for fixing a common leak at the connection point of a faucet supply line. The process involves shutting off the water, removing the old supply line, installing a new one, and testing the connections to ensure a durable, leak-free repair.

Based on content fromreplumb· 719K subscribers

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a beginner typically need to fix a faucet supply line leak, and what's the most common hold-up?

For most beginners, this project takes about 30-60 minutes. The biggest time-consumer is often preparing the work area, ensuring the water is fully off, and carefully tightening the new connections to avoid overtightening or cross-threading.

The project mentions a 'Braided Polymer Faucet Supply Line.' Are there other types, and how do I ensure I get the right replacement?

Yes, supply lines come in various materials like braided stainless steel or PEX, which are also durable options. The most critical step is to match the length and the connector sizes (e.g., 3/8 in. compression x 1/2 in. FIP) of your new line to your existing one and the connections on your faucet and shut-off valve.

I've replaced the supply line, but it's still leaking slightly after installation. What's the first thing I should check?

First, ensure both nuts are snug but not overtightened; over-tightening can damage internal washers or threads. Confirm the supply line is seated straight without cross-threading, and visually check that the small rubber washer inside the faucet connection is present and intact, as this creates the primary seal.

Is it ever okay to just tighten the old leaky supply line connection instead of replacing the entire line?

You can attempt a slight turn with your wrench to see if it stops the leak, but if it's an older line or already tight, this often isn't a permanent fix and could worsen the leak. Replacing the inexpensive supply line ensures a fresh, reliable seal, especially if the internal washers are worn or compressed.