Install Rafters with Joist Hangers

ledger could pull out. Now we make sure the outside lines up on 7 ft. Tack our brace. Now we'll use the 3-4-5 and square up our structure and install your rafter. Our distance from the face of the ledger to the outside of the beam is 82 and 1/2 in and that's our run. And then we have a 3-in pitch. And if we hit diagonal, this is the distance from the top of the ledger to the top of the rafter above where it sits on the beam. If we hit rise, this is the distance from the top of the ledger down to the top of the beam and this does not include a seat cut. We'll mark out the three pitch on the top of our rafter. We'll hook this and measure back 85 and 1/16. We'll mark the top, draw out our pitch. Now we'll measure out our seat cut and we'll make our seat cut 3 and 1/2 in. So our plumb cut was 15/16 and our seat cut was 3 and 1/2. Could have also measured out and made a cut for our rafter tails on this end, but we'll just save it till the end. If you did your rafters right and they're all cut the same, as you go down, your seat cut should sit completely against this beam. But if the gap on your rafter starts getting bigger, you're at a quarter, a half, an inch, that means you made a mistake. You either cut your rafter wrong, your beam is set too high or too low, or your ledger might be set in the wrong position. You also need to transfer your spacing from the ledger to the beam. Measuring after the fact is more forgiving. Doing this on the ground is easier overall. And tack in your rafter. And install your hanger. This style joist hanger is made for rafters. This is just handling downward forces and pushing away the beam. And this situation is different than when you have a rafter sit on top of your double top plate. This counts on the downward forces being handled by the double top plate. Now we'll measure out our beam