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Which porch fails? πŸ€” learn how to build a porch! #porch #concrete #formwork #learn

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Video by BAS Renovations

BAS Renovations

What happens here

This project guides viewers through the correct techniques for constructing a durable concrete porch, highlighting common mistakes and demonstrating best practices in each stage, from foundation to finishing. It covers critical aspects like footing design, block laying, backfilling, flashing, formwork, concrete mixing, and finishing to ensure a long-lasting and structurally sound porch.

Transcript

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Some problems are obvious, but others hide for years. And it all starts underground. The footings need to be wide enough to handle downward forces. If you don't dig your footing to the proper depth, frost can heave your foundation. If you set a block with rebar and fill the cell with grout, it'll be very strong. If your mix is too dry, when you apply the mortar, it won't stick. But if this mortar gets mixed right, when you apply this mortar, it sticks much better. And you can also see that it soaks into the block and sets your block. If we backfill with loose or organic material, even if I compact this backfill, as organic materials break down over time, the backfill will get lower and lower and your concrete will be hollow underneath and cause it to easily crack. If we use the proper backfill and do the proper compaction, the base will stay strong. If there's no flashing, just install concrete against the house wrap, this water will run behind your slab and damage your sheathing. Pull back your house wrap and add a flashing. Install counter flashing. Now when we get water, the water will hit the flashing and your sheathing will stay dry. If this formwork doesn't get pitched away from the house, water will flow back towards your house. Pitch it away from the house, water will run away from your house. If we set our formwork too low, your concrete will be thin and weak. If we attach our formwork with nails, these forms will be hard to pull. If you're going to order over a half yard of concrete, just order a truck. If your concrete's too wet, it could be weaker and take forever to dry. If it's too dry, it can be hard to work with. If you don't properly cover doors and siding, concrete can splash and can be hard to get off. Now we'll tap or vibrate our forms. If we don't vibrate or tap our formwork, these edges won't turn out. Screed our concrete. If we leave low spots, do a bad job screeding, and bull float the same direction as we screed, your floating is more likely to be wavy. If you get on or work on your concrete too early, you'll have low spots and ridge marks, and you'll get puddles on your concrete. If you run an edger too early and don't run it flat, you'll get rolled edges. If you keep your edger square, you'll get nice flat edges. If we bull float the opposite direction of the screed, if we wait till the right time to mag, around a quarter inch depression, the slab stays flat and is much easier to work on. If we pull the forms too early, this edge will come with it. If we pull these forms at the right time and the right way, this edge can be easily finished. If you broom too early, you'll get a bad finish. If we broom finish at the right time, this will turn out much better. So, even though this might look like an easy job, I'm saving this one. It's a lot more work than you might think. Thanks for watching.

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