Frame an 8x12 shed: Intermediate lesson!
Video by BAS Renovations
BAS Renovations
What happens here
This project details the process of framing an 8x12 shed, starting from the ground up with the floor system, moving to wall framing, constructing a hip roof, and finally installing wall and roof sheathing. It highlights key measurements, construction techniques, and tips for working efficiently, even when working alone.
Transcript
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Transcript
(6,444 characters)Framing an 8x12 shed. Let's get started. Start by laying out your 4x4 skids. And then you'll put your joists on top of that. You can check the span chart table to see which size you need to use. Here I am placing the crown of the joist facing upwards. I used 2x4s on a 4 ft span. Anything larger than that, you'll probably want to use a 2x6. You can do your layout on 12, 16 or 24 inch centers. I would say 16 is fine, but if you want it to be very strong , you can choose a center of 12. Nail all of these joists to the skid and be sure to use only galvanized nails for pressure-treated wood. You can take your layout right here at 16 inches center and then make all your marks. So that when you nail them, it's quite easy. Mark the length of your joist and make sure it is the correct size. Depending on your building, you'll probably want to keep it a little less than 8 feet. You can then draw lines through the squares and cut them out so they are the same size. I've kept the framing an inch shorter so there's room for sheathing on both sides. So, the actual size is exactly 8x12 feet. For this, two nails are sufficient at each connection. You can even put three if you want. Here, I'm using a vent for the decking. You should take corner-to-corner measurements on your frame to make sure everything is correct. These measurements should be the same. You can set your plywood in place and add some nails so you can arrange it however you want. And then you have to make sure that your seams are separate. In this case, you'll be able to use your leftover piece on the other side with a slight overhang. With tongue and groove plywood , make sure you don't hit the tongue directly with the hammer or it will be difficult to install the second sheet. You can draw a square line and cut off the excess part from both sides. For fasteners, you can use screws or ring shank nails. In this case, I used screws , but either is good. The nails are definitely sharp. Once the deck is in place , make sure you level your base so everything is ready to build the walls. You can start framing your walls. Be careful not to have your studs reach the full 8 feet in height, or your sheathing won't reach the bottom of the deck. You can buy 92 and 5/8 studs and it fits perfectly. Install your top plate. You can install the double top plate now or do it later. If you're a beginner, I'd recommend doing this later. And then for the sheathing, if you want to do it first, you can, but it'll probably be a little easier for you to do it later. Draw lines 3 and 1/2 inches in from all edges. And then you can put nails as I 'm showing here so that when you put the wall up, it does n't move. Install a side brace. So that when you erect it , you can slide it and set it in the right place. And then if you just put a nail in it , it's easier to move. Nail your bottom plate to the joists. You can also take corner-to- corner measurements for your walls on the ground to see if they are square. This is a good idea if you are going to be sheathing on the ground. It is good practice to mark all your top and bottom plates at the same time. You can do two walls first and then the other two so that they are uniform. When you install your double top plate , make sure it overlaps the other. It's a crisscross pattern so they lock into each other. This is an important connection. You'll want to make sure you apply the right amount of nails. You can put three or four nails in it. Then, drive two nails into each stud. Now, install the diagonal bracing. You will want to make sure that you get this structure straight (plumb). And then you can put some nails in it to hold it in place. If you really need to make a little adjustment , you can usually move it around later. Make sure you keep your hand back from the stud so you don't accidentally drive a nail into your hand. Be sure to lap your top plates over the studs. Here, I'm going to draw a line across the entire wall to make sure it's straight. You can pull it down to the bottom, put another nail in, and then straighten the wall and install your top plate. For your rafters , you can buy these pre-made from the store , or you can make your own. There are some good websites that explain how to do this , but if you do it yourself , just make sure you use a template so they are all the same. This is a hip roof. I wouldn't recommend this for a first- time project. It is very easy to handle the gable alone. I've already attached both ends to the ridge so I just have to move it up here without having to work on both sides separately. These are all toe-nailed , but if you want extra strength you can use hurricane ties later. Make sure your layout is correct before installing your roofing sheets. You don't want any mess or problems to arise later. You can always make a few cuts if you're off by a little , but if you're wrong by more than an inch, you'll be facing bigger problems. Here I have cut and installed the door later. This is something you can frame while on the ground and it's very easy. Just in case, I did it like this. I check the level and then make some marks. I cut my jacks and then install the headers. If you are working alone and the sheet is too heavy to lift , you can hammer a block. Get a 2x4 of the correct size. This gives you a chance to put it in the right place. When you work alone , sometimes you have to get creative. Now, we will apply this sheet while standing. You can also do this horizontally. In this situation it doesn't really matter. Make sure you nail it correctly. You want to make sure all your edges are well connected. And make sure you do n't miss the studs while doing this. There isn't a lot of cutting to do, but you can use a T- square or chalk line for any cuts you need to make. Be sure to use at least 1/2 inch OSB or plywood for the roof sheeting. The walls can be 7/16 , but I'd use 1/2 inch for everything. Just like with the deck, you can lay this plywood on top and then make your cuts later using the chalk line. When you install the fascia , you can either have an overhang or keep it flush with the building when cutting the rafters. In this case, I kept it flush and simply nailed 2x6 lumber. And I want to remind you that you don't need expensive equipment to do all this. You can use a hammer and nails. A saw is all you need to complete this project. If you have any questions, please comment. I will definitely answer.
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