DIY Twin Low Loft Bed

hey what's gonna guys Alexes music in here from mr. bilder welcome back to another week in the workshop hey today I'm gonna show you how you can make a very modern stylish bed with the real wood for under 150 bucks that's right not breaking a bank so buckle up make sure you hit that subscribe button if you haven't yet already and let's get into the video let's go alright so to get started we decided to go with the 2 by 6 by 8 foot long boards of douglas-fir for this particular project being a twin bed we needed 9 pieces at 8 feet long so we brought them over to our miter station cut them all down and a half that would be a lot easier to work with then we started milling now typically when you mill you want to do the edge and the face and then send through a thickness planer but these boards were actually really really good condition and I thought everything else could be forgiving with sanding so I just decided to clean up the edge of it that way you'll make a nice smoother cleaner panel glue up after a few quick passes on the jointer and then creating a parallel side edge on the table saw we were ready for the panel glue up when doing panel Bluest my go-to are these pipe clamps they're really inexpensive and they're super super strong so then I lay down the bottom clamps and on top of the bottom clamps I laid out the exact grain pattern and seam tightness that I'm looking for once I was happy with the pattern I lifted the edges up and I started applying the wood glue what you're looking for is a nice consistent glue up so spread it evenly and put enough on there now when you comes to applying the clamp pressure you are basically looking for just the right amount of wood glue squeeze-out too much of it will deprive the joint of its strength too little of it well you're now gonna have enough glue strength so give a nice firm application and apply only as much as you see squeezing out after everything dries that appropriate amount the next day I'm gonna remove these clamps and put them through a lot of sanding cleaning up all the joints all the wood glue squeeze-out and getting them ready for building now that we got our wooden clamps we like to let it sit overnight sometimes they say you can work on it after like 15 minutes or an hour you know what I like to err on the safe side let it rest overnight then come back for it it'll make so much easier to work with knowing that it's strong as it could be so that being said I will see you in the morning after all the panels were all done and sanded and readied for the final trimmings I brought my tracks off tracks is a really quick way to create nice straight consistent cuts plus it's a really easy setup so because the mattress overall width is 39 inches I needed to create a little bit extra room just in case the mattress is squeezed and molds come out on the sides so I rounded it up to 40 inches is my internal diameter but keep in mind we're gonna panel us on the side they're gonna bridge the headboard and the footboard so long story short 43 inches headboard footboard once everything was cut to its final dimensions we whipped out the palm router it has a 3/8 round over bit to give all the edges a nice round over feel it really looks finished it really looks put together and it looks super slick as well out of the 9 2 by 6 boards that we bought two of the boards are gonna work as the side rails now the average twin mattress is 75 inches long so with this one we gave you that one extra inch so our final dimensions 76 inches we brought it to our Kreg jig and put pocket holes on both ends of the two boards now keep in mind position them all on the same face that way they're gonna sit on the inside part of the bed and not on the outside where it's gonna be a huge eyesore when it came time to assembling I started with the footboard first assembly because the footboard would sit and flush on the very top to the top of the rails so I flipped it on its back laid it on the ground and used the two and a half inch coarse threaded pocket hole screws from Craig jig once the both rails were installed very carefully I flipped it over and I was getting ready to start on the headboard we needed to utilize the storage space underneath the bed so the overall height had to be 15 and 1/2 inches tall so to match the footboard we basically took a scrap piece clamped it as a jig and leveled it out to be the same exact distance as it is on the footboard for the headboard then use the same chewing the half inch screws and secured it together once the side rails were installed and they're bedded sitting upright we were ready to create the part that would support the mattress slats so to do so we took one of the two by sixes and ripped it on our table saw into two inch strips once that was done we put it on its edge and pre-drilled pocket holes then we took two and a half inch screws and install them flush underneath the side rails on the inner part of the bed and for added support we will also install them on the inner parts of the headboard and the footboard to really ensure that we have as much strength as possible first lads we went with pine 4x8 sheet of plywood from a local Home Depot roughly between 37 and 38 bucks we ripped it on our table saw into three inch sections and then install them as evenly as possible we end up using about three-quarters of the four by eight sheet so it was actually a really good buy we then used a inch and a quarter screws to drill them right into the side rails and what's they're all secured well that is basically ready for the finish alright so I'm getting ready to put the stain on this is the first time I'm going with the very same stain this particular color is the antique white no particular reason why I'm going with this was just kind on the Shelf I haven't used it not a sponsored video biome so I'll give it a try my method is always using a foam brush other people like cloth this just keeps my hands clean I don't do tinker with it so I'm gonna put one coat see how it looks and then go from there oh and I stand it all the way up to 220 so that's right in though I don't pride myself in my finishing techniques I do have a consistent approach every single time I take a foam brush and I apply the stain one panel at a time and I go along with the grain then I let it sit for about two minutes I take a clean lint-free rag and I wipe off any excess if I have not reached the particular color that I'm looking for I then do another layer sometimes three at most and then I've just let it dry my general rule of thumb is even if I don't achieve the exact shade that I want once I apply the finishing clear coat on it it tends to contrast and get a darker shade that I'm looking for and of course the finishing coat I have the same approach use an HVLP sprayer in my particular using is the new one from home right it's their finish max really liked it a lot and then I use Minwax it's a polyurethane it is a water-based and it applies really easy all I do is spray about one or two coats I let it dry and then I use a 220 sandpaper to kind of cut the grain if you will to get all the fuzzies off and then I do another two coats and then I just leave it alone and let it dry overnight well that is it for me this week thank you so much for stopping by guys if you're brand new to the channel welcome make sure hit that subscribe button right over there we put a video out every single week and these are two more videos that you might enjoy if you missed already tune it out this week we'll see you guys next week see ya