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Kitchen Makeover + PLUMBING ON CONCRETE (Ep.2)

18:52
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Video by Mr. Build It

Mr. Build It

What happens here

This project details the process of installing new drainage and water supply lines in a kitchen built on a concrete slab. It involves breaking through concrete, laying electrical conduit, constructing a wooden frame for plumbing, and meticulously assembling ABS drain pipes using solvent welding techniques. Additionally, it covers the installation of PEX water supply lines and a pot filler, concluding with thorough testing of the new plumbing system for leaks and proper functionality.

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all right welcome back to the concrete slab house makeover demo day is done in the kitchen so the next part is going to be plumbing on a concrete slab i know a lot of you had questions about this just specifically if you have a house built on a coffee slab or you have a basement house because we had a peninsula here a lot of plumbing and electrical went through it so we have to get that stuff under the ground now electrical might be easy and i'll show you how but the plumbing is the most difficult part because we have a vent tube that goes in here and goes to the top so we need to figure out how to get rid of that re-plumb that how to get these power cables under the ground we got to make sure to figure out our new sink location which is going to be here and the proper sloping for it with the water lines going to it and to make matters even more difficult we want to figure out how to add a fresh water pot tap right there for you know filling up possum pants and stuff whatever people do with that i don't know we have a lot to do so without wasting any more time let's get into this video let's go but first let's talk about sponsors today's video blinkist does this ever happen to you where you want to read a book but in today's busy time you just don't have the time to sit down and read a whole entire book i've recently discovered blankets so instead of trying to find time to sit down and read an entire book i can listen to it with my headphones and get the highlights in only 15 minutes how cool is that blink is allows you to save time money and learn new things faster than ever you can use it for self-improvement marriage parenting and many other areas best insights from 3 000 plus nonfiction books condensed into just 15 minutes read or listen to them podcast style 14 million active users access all titles while offline full-length audio books premium subscribers get special member pricing up to 65 off the regular retail price and the reason they come out with shortcast which they've teamed up with popular podcast creators to blink those for you as well so you can get the heart of podcast episodes fast welcome to the revisionist history shortcast a little revisionism now blink is going to offer a special deal for my viewers first 100 people to go to www.blinkis.com forward slash mr billet are going to going to get a free unlimited one-week access trial to use their entire platform you'll also get 25 off if you want the full membership the seven day trial is completely free and you can cancel any time during that period now let's go back into this video let's go all right first order of business is tackling the channel that will have the power going from that bottom side to that side so concrete slab easy how to figure that out the problem is i have radiant heated floors so water tubes are running all the way across here warming of the slab out if i start cutting into it i could cut the water lines and this is going to be a huge mess probably one of my biggest nightmares so there's ways to go around that i picked up one of these infrared thermometers that anywhere i point it tells me and it gives me an image so as you can see here we have this bright red and orange and you can actually see the looping of where this radiant flooring goes then we see a cold spot here and then it picks up again to the next room so what this is telling me is i have roughly around a 20 inch gap of no radiant flooring safe zone so i made my markings here so now we have to cut this concrete out get it out put pvc uh conduit down and feed the wire cables from here that will come out out there and how we're gonna do it we're gonna get real messy so over the years i've learned that you could try doing things with small tools and take a very long time or you can get really big tools and get it done in minutes so i picked up from my friends over at tate's rents a jackhammer and a concrete saw so what we're going to do here is we're going to create the cut and then use a jackhammer to get that out i have a theory i can get it all done in under an hour all right so now in terms of cost i went to taste rents they're employee owned uh they are there's tons of rental places just look out where they are in your area i spent 260 for both a concrete saw and the jack hammer for four hours i'm going to see if i can do this in couple of minutes really maybe under an hour all right uh we got to cut it's straining on your hands uh i was maybe cutting for about 10 minutes maybe less good old faithful ryobi big fan over there making sure we get all these fumes and whatever is in here out of here so we can continue [Applause] [Music] uh [Music] okay uh what was that timing you think that's what five minutes yes five minutes and i i think it went all the way down the dirt because the chisel kept sticking right and i had to pull it out i said like mud came out or dirt five minutes and ten minutes for the [Music] sauce [Music] i spoke to an electrician about running conduit under concrete when it's in your house when it's a house lab okay what he's saying is it has to be below the surface of the concrete so what that means is it has to be he's like if you can fill like a sliver of dirt over it before the concrete so basically here's your uh conduit here's your concrete don't let it go any higher than that this does not go in the concrete itself so that's proper we got these couplings you could use the gray pvc conduit stuff they're all at the store like everything else right now so we went with metal i'm gonna drop my elbows in there and in there get my middle piece connect them together and then i take a quick drying post concrete cement put it in there let it dry you can actually not mix it ahead of time but actually start pouring it in and then you can start pouring water on top and mixing it inside as it sets what's nice is this way it actually starts settling in into all the crevices that we would have mixed if we pre-mixed it now the next problem right we need to make sure we move all this plumbing to where the sink is going to be i example a the sink the way i was kind of thinking it is this is going to be where the legs are an island all the drawers and the dishwasher and the sink is going to be here so the best way to move all of this to where i actually need it is i'm going to create a little pony wall faux box that's going to encapsulate all of that in so i will cut this off drop it down and do all my plumbing with the water lines and all that stuff coming through this box coming into the cabinet under the sink i'm gonna scrape off all this mastic that was left here before and we'll start building our box [Music] oh i need to start kind of reorganizing replanting my plumbing situation here this drain access valve is going to get lower to the bottom here the reason why is because there has to be a slope coming down from this thing because how far it is we're going to cut this off we bought the whole brand new system that's going to get lower down attach all of our pieces in place [Applause] this is the abs adhesive cement so you don't need to prime it just make sure it's clean a nice good coating put it on give it a small turn and that's it now this is the angle this is nice because when it's when it's positioned this way you can select the angle that you're going to be doing the drop off from the sink i'm not going to secure it right now i'm going to temporarily slide it on and figure out the angle that i need okay so the original drain was 17 inches down the middle i'm going to do a temporary test fit make sure i have the right loop find my little marquee mark secure this little stop blocker for me i'll get this i'll get it all right 17 on the money i'll throw another little reinforcement piece here so it doesn't put too much strain on this long pipe don't be gross we're gonna take this dry fitting off put cement and scare it [Music] before we do this i need to i put the liquid cement down because i'm not going to be able to lift the sucker up so let me let me get it all right liquid nails pick this up sweep it up put a lot of this stuff down set it down and then i can put it in and glue it i almost got in trouble if you're wondering why i'm using liquid nails here and not driving concrete screws in radiant flooring remember besides i'm gonna have a thousand pound slab laying on this thing going nowhere let's talk ventilating your drainage system so after talking to about half a dozen plumbers well they're recommending the best solution is to use an aav valve which is an air admits valve and what basically does is it allows air into the plumbing system without allowing the stinky gases to escape the sewer system so basically you have all the benefits of an air vent without any kind of smells and it works through a little vacuum suction lid that's inside of there now for code they said it has to be a minimum of four inches above your horizontal drain tube even though ours is sloped we can't count four inches from here we have to count four inches from its highest point before it goes to the p-trap that's the bare minimum we have the room to go a little bit more than that and this is all strictly to avoid overflowing doing you know a drain flooding so we're able to go way higher because of our cabinets we're going to secure it in place there and use the cement to keep it there we're gonna have this be built into the island with an access panel so this will be the premium solution got a little adapter piece that goes into uh the inch and a half and uh put our p-trap in place and then we'll be done ready to move on to the water all right the water lines the water lines are going through pex plumbing which is this like half inch plastic tubing that's the current stuff that they're using what we're going to do is extend it this way coming out of the same area so i'm going to use my little 90 degree elbows and i'm using the pex crimping tool right over here it's 60 bucks but it's probably some of the best money you'll ever spend in plumbing we're going to cut it put the adapters put the ring on it secure it in place and run them all here make sure your water line your main valve is off we're going to cut it so you have a little bucket you'll spill some now this is an accessory water line that was never used as you can see the stud's still on there so i'm just going to cap it off and the way you cap it off is you use these plugs with the pex ring to cap it off in place the last part of the plumbing is to get the supply line for your faucet underneath to run to your faucet on top and so you have to use these copper pex adapters get a little bracket like this and it secures through here it pops in place there secures through and then we just use the pex crampings to secure those uh pex lines to these copper stubs we want to do a pot filler valve so what that is is you have your cook stop here and you have a faucet right here that pops out and then you can refill your pots pans put it back turn it off it's a simple idea it's only just like one hose line but we still need to do the right way fortunately enough for us here's some water line that's running this is going to the faucet outside and to the rest of the house so we're going to put a t here drill through the studs in the walls and mount it here they said usually about 20 to 24 inches above your cooktop level we're gonna go off of this level mounted i think down the middle we'll see all right so here's the plan of attack now that i'm examining what's going on here i'm gonna use a spade bit uh probably something a little bit over an inch or about an inch and then i'm gonna start doing my best to drill all the way through here obviously there's electrical going across here so i'm gonna go right below it put a drop ear there secure it in place put a stud here so we can center it this corner is gonna be my hardest corner but you know it never comes easy does it somebody want some cotton shouldn't have candy that oh look how lucky we are we need to go through one last stud and guess what's here gas line [Music] a little cutteroo [Music] from the water hose throw a tee now we got line very important part we put little striking plates like this over to make sure nobody drills through a water line the drop here this is the part that connects to the pecs line and then this is threaded to put any kind of faucet whether it's a shower head or a pot filler i have made the same mistake twice that i've ever installed this is probably the third time that i've installed it basically right on the stud and as you can see it's proud of the drywall no bracket conceals it so the trick is getting it lined up so it's flush with the drywall that way any kind of phalange or bracket can actually conceal that so i've got a little one by two in the back got pocket holes securing it in the studs here and then just going to drill it right in place put the pex light into it and we'll be done we got ourselves a pot fill i've always wanted one so it's kind of nice actually have one now the last thing we need to do is to plug this cap off because i don't have the faucet they want us to put a little bit of teflon on there screw it on it's basically a dummy plug okay all right the water is turned on to the house let's go see if it's flooding i'm not nervous why nothing we did it we got pressure water's on nothing's leaking [Music] oh guys we got it all done we got the conduit ran for the electrical to jump we have fresh water lines coming in secured we have the drain installed and properly vented the most important part and we got a fresh water pot fill valve this is so much i've never done a lot of these things we've accomplished it we've learned a lot man does it feel good huh for budget you guys know i always have to explain the budget it roughly costs around 200 bucks for all the plumbing the draining the water lines and all little connectors and transitions all in all really easy to do you just have to study up online the the code in terms of elevation of certain things the spacing of other things hey that is it for me this week on this episode for the plumbing on the concrete slab for the kitchen up next we're gonna be start building the cabinets not only are we building the cabinets to extend these cabinets to the very tippy top to make it that really big look but we're also gonna start building the base cabinets for this island and start arranging everything who knows we might even salvage some of the old cabinets but make sure you stick around till the next episode while you'll see this entire process if you're burning the channel and you like videos like this or any other kind of home improvement projects make sure you hit the subscribe button and most importantly tap the notification bell that will be alert every time a video comes out make sure you like comment share this video with your friends check my social media all the links will be the description below as well as my merch section all that helps support this channel remember guys we are not trained professionals we're just not afraid to try and fail tune in this week we'll see you guys on the next one see ya bye

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