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Creating and Attaching the Base

3:50
8:49
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At 3:50 in

DIY Barrel Beer Mug

What happens here

After the glued cylinder has dried overnight and the tape is removed, take a 3/4 inch thick piece of red oak for the base. Place the cylinder on top of the red oak board and use a pencil to carefully trace the inner and outer perimeter of the cylinder's bottom onto the board, focusing on the sharp angles. Remove the cylinder and cut out the traced base shape using a band saw, following the pencil lines. The band saw's widest blade (e.g., 3/4 inch, 3 TPI) is used for these cuts. Clean up any rough edges from the band saw cut using a belt sander, ensuring the base fits snugly into the bottom of the cylinder. Before final gluing, do a 'dry fit' by placing the base inside the cylinder to ensure it fits well and provides structural support for sanding. Apply tape around the inside bottom edge of the cylinder to catch any excess glue. Apply a liberal amount of wood glue to the bottom rim of the cylinder and the edges of the wooden base, then seat the base firmly into the cylinder. Once excess glue squeezes out, remove the tape and wipe away any remaining wet glue with a damp rag.

Goal: A base is traced from the cylinder and cut from 3/4 inch red oak, then glued and clamped to the bottom of the stein body.

Tools and materials

  • Band Saw
  • Belt Sander
  • Blue Painter's Tape
  • Clamps
  • Pencil
  • Wood Glue (Titebond II) Titebond
  • Cylinder (Barrel Body)
  • Red Oak Board (3/4 inch thick)

What they say

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as strong as possible before we get working after giving the project as much time that it needed to dry I came back and I removed all the tape now before I started cleaning up all the dried up wood glue I decided to create the base for the base I took 3/4 inch red oak just to match the overall theme and I set the cylinder on top then I took a pencil and I traced out the entire bottom focusing on all the detailed sharp angles then I removed the cylinder and brought the base to my bandsaw now in the bandsaw my mission was to create the sharp transitional cuts of this polygon so I used the widest blade I had she was about three quarters of an inch three two per inch blade and I went and took my time to focus on each cut individually after that I brought the base to the belt sander and cleaned up anything that was missed on the bandsaw after being done with the bottom I then decided to do a test-fit dry fit and by placing the piece right in the middle of the cylinder this would give me structural support when it comes to sanding for sanding I used a 150 grit sandpaper and worked all the beveled angles that were sticking out I basically try to run them over as much as I can just to make the cylinder look as round as possible when seating the base I laid out a perimeter with tape for the glue to squeeze out onto then I placed a liberal amount of glue itself and then seeded the base once everything squeezed down Ivan removed the tape cleaned out anything excess with a damp rag and I was ready to drive now comes

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