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DIY Barrel Beer Mug

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37.5K views

Video by Mr. Build It

Mr. Build It

What happens here

This project guides you through creating a unique barrel-style beer stein from red oak. It involves precisely cutting and gluing angled wood strips to form the cylindrical body, crafting and attaching a custom handle with wood screws, adding a solid base, applying a burnt finish for character, and finally sealing it with food-safe polyurethane.

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hey what's going on guys alakazoo can hear from mr. builded welcome back to another week in the workshop with Oktoberfest festivities we're at around the corner we need ourselves a proper beer stein now we need to create something that's kind of proved to everybody that we're not here to mess around we're here to have a good time so we came up with this what we're calling the barrel style beer stein so without wasting your time let me show you how I built it and let's get into the video let's go so Rattata gates to get started we knew we wouldn't be using a lathe to create the cylindrical shape for the beer stein so instead we're gonna use angles now to accomplish this we went down to our local Home Depot and we picked up some of the quarter inch red oak now we needed to create the angles on both edges to be a consistent angle throughout the entire cylindrical travel if you will and so the angle that we picked was 78 degrees now you can go with different angles different angles will give you basically a different size of the beer stein in terms of diameter but also it'll give you a much harsher transition so we felt 78 was appropriate enough to kind of make everybody happy once we chose the angle we set our table saw we use this yellow jig called the grip or the gripper basically is just another jig that allows for you to press down on the stock on your table saw to create as as a consistent cut through the entire piece of stock of wood also keeps your finger safe now after we got all the links on both sides all tapered and angle the way we wanted them we had to kind of chop everything up that would accommodate the overall height of the beer stein so we brought everything to our miter station now the trick at this point is to create repeatable cuts right so we created a little stop lock which is basically a scrap piece of wood that we screwed right into the plywood of the miter station once it was there we just kind of bumped all the wood to it and kind of sliced and diced as we went now that we got the overall pieces and I think it came out to about 15 pieces all at 78° and the overall height was 5 inches once everything was all laid out we were ready to proceed now that we got all of our 15 pieces angled and ready to go lay them all down on the inside the narrow part down and the wide side the outer part up line them all up nice and straight and then take the strongest tape you have and start taping as much as you can on top essentially you're turning this thing into a rug then flip it over it's gonna be laying on its outer shell now and you see all these channels and all these joints that are ready to be glued up take a fine tip glue bottle and start laying it from top to bottom on each row don't worry about doing too much but make sure it's a consistent spread once that's ready ensure that you have wood glue on the outer ends as well and roll it up like a snake this is a super cool effect and you're gonna be really proud of how it comes out for clamping I find it really helpful using an old ratchet strap and wrapping and tight together not too tight just a slight amount too much will squeeze out the glue and will cause the joints all to move out of line and after about 20 minutes of the wood glue kind of settling in take a damp rag and start wiping out all the squeeze out from the wood glue on the inside part of the beer sign it's gonna be the biggest pain in the butt try to kind of sand it and grind it all out after everything is right so this is your best win of opportunity keep in mind make sure the rag is not too wet we don't want to bring too much water into the wood glue and make the structure weak and after you're happy with the amount of wood glue you're able to clean up it's a good idea to take a tape measure and check both sides of the cylinder to make sure it's as even as possible you know there's an old saying if they look straight it probably is straight and when you're happy with everything go ahead and let it sit overnight and get as strong as possible before we get working after giving the project as much time that it needed to dry I came back and I removed all the tape now before I started cleaning up all the dried up wood glue I decided to create the base for the base I took 3/4 inch red oak just to match the overall theme and I set the cylinder on top then I took a pencil and I traced out the entire bottom focusing on all the detailed sharp angles then I removed the cylinder and brought the base to my bandsaw now in the bandsaw my mission was to create the sharp transitional cuts of this polygon so I used the widest blade I had she was about three quarters of an inch three two per inch blade and I went and took my time to focus on each cut individually after that I brought the base to the belt sander and cleaned up anything that was missed on the bandsaw after being done with the bottom I then decided to do a test-fit dry fit and by placing the piece right in the middle of the cylinder this would give me structural support when it comes to sanding for sanding I used a 150 grit sandpaper and worked all the beveled angles that were sticking out I basically try to run them over as much as I can just to make the cylinder look as round as possible when seating the base I laid out a perimeter with tape for the glue to squeeze out onto then I placed a liberal amount of glue itself and then seeded the base once everything squeezed down Ivan removed the tape cleaned out anything excess with a damp rag and I was ready to drive now comes the handle the handle is probably the funnest part of the project let your imagination run wild I basically drew out the highest and the lowest part of the handle and I kind of tinkered with a lot of different designs and patterns once I landed under one I brought it to my bandsaw now I used my 3/4 inch blade simply because my smaller blade broke right before this step and so I kind of make made it work all the choppy hard cuts I basically cleaned them up on my spindle sander once everything was done I wanted to create this chamfered edge throughout the entire handle to kind of give it that smoother feel in your hand and to accomplish this all I did was simply hold at about roughly 45 degree angle to the abrasive part of the spindle sander or the belt and I just kind of manually created them basically I balled it it's not super perfect but it looks great once I was happy with the overall style and shape of the handle it was ready for installation now oak tends to crack when screws go into it if the holes aren't pre-drilled so I pre-drilled some pilot holes on both the cylinder of the beer stein and the handle and then applied wood glue and a half inch screw on both the top and the bottom part of the handle and installed it that way once ensuring the handle was dry I needed to level out the top of the beer stein so to do this I use my table saw play the flat part against the fence and created a parallel flat surface by running it on the table saw and then rotating with every pass right before we start burning and using a torch I decided to give it a once-over with 150 grit sandpaper to round over any edges and give the overall even feel before we start introducing some of the heat now when it comes to giving our beer stein a cool burnt look I went with the matte pro-gas simply because it gets hot real quick and I can get it to cool down very quickly as well then I partnered with a TS 4040 the ts-4900 you focus on getting nice good consistent patterns without keeping my finger on the trigger to get rid of any harsh burn marks or in the inconsistent patterns I used 150 grit then 220 grit to blend everything together this will give it that one even final look that we're looking for when it came to figuring out what finish we wanted to use we settled on polyurethane now the question you might ask is food safe well one of the articles I read in public woodworking magazine they're saying that even polyurethane could be a food-safe finish so long as you let it cure for 30 days at room temperature which is 65 to 75 degrees my gosh guys thank you so much for watching these videos a big thank you to burn sematic for partnering with us on this project if you're brand new to the channel make sure you hit that subscribe button right over there we've put a video out every single week and I don't want you to miss a single one here's a couple other videos you can check out as well make sure you like comment and share these videos let me know what you guys think in the comment sections down below tuning out this week we'll see you guys next week see ya bye

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