Begin by ensuring the washing machine is turned off and unplugged from the wall outlet for safety. Gather all your necessary tools and supplies. Place a bucket and some old towels on the floor behind the washing machine. This will help catch any residual water that will spill from the hoses when they are disconnected.

Locate the hot and cold water shutoff valves on the wall behind the washing machine. These are typically lever-style or knob-style valves. For knob-style valves, turn them clockwise (to the right) until they are firmly closed. For lever-style valves, turn them a quarter turn so the handle is perpendicular to the water pipe. This will stop the flow of water to the supply hoses.

Gently and carefully pull the washing machine away from the wall. You need to create enough space to comfortably stand or kneel behind it and access the hose connections on both the wall and the back of the machine. Be mindful of the drain hose and the power cord; do not pull the machine out so far that you stretch or disconnect them.

Position your bucket directly underneath the wall valve connections. Using channel-lock pliers or an adjustable wrench, grip the metal fitting on the end of a hose. Turn the fitting counter-clockwise ('lefty-loosey') to loosen it from the shutoff valve. Once it's loose, you should be able to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Expect a small amount of water to drain into the bucket. Repeat for the second hose.

Now, move to the connections on the back of the washing machine. The hoses will still contain water. Keep the bucket or towels handy. Use your channel-lock pliers to loosen the fittings in a counter-clockwise direction. Once loose, unscrew them by hand and carefully tilt the hoses to drain the remaining water into the bucket. You can now completely remove the old hoses and set them aside.

Take one of your new braided stainless steel hoses. Ensure the rubber washer is properly seated inside the coupling at one end. Connect this end to the washing machine first. The hot water inlet is usually marked red or with an 'H'. Screw the fitting on by hand until it is snug. This helps prevent cross-threading. Then, use your channel-lock pliers to give it a final quarter to half turn to create a tight seal. Do not overtighten. Repeat the process for the second hose, connecting it to the cold water inlet.

Now take the free ends of the hoses and connect them to the corresponding water shutoff valves on the wall. Connect the hose from the hot inlet on the washer to the hot water valve, and the cold to the cold. Just like before, screw the fittings on by hand first to ensure they are threaded correctly. Then, use the channel-lock pliers to tighten them another quarter to half turn until they are snug.

This is the most critical step. Slowly turn both water shutoff valves back on by turning them counter-clockwise. Watch all four connection points (two on the washer, two on the wall) closely for any signs of water. Use a dry paper towel or your hand to feel around each connection to detect any slow drips that might not be immediately visible. If you find a leak, turn the water off immediately and tighten the leaking connection slightly (about an eighth of a turn), then test again. Do not proceed until all connections are completely dry.

Once you have confirmed there are absolutely no leaks, carefully slide the washing machine back into its final position against the wall. Be sure to leave a few inches of space to prevent the new hoses from kinking or being crushed, which could restrict water flow or damage the hoses. Once in place, plug the washing machine's power cord back into the outlet. Clean up your tools and wipe up any water that spilled on the floor with your towels. It is good practice to run a short wash cycle and check for leaks one last time.