Painting Wood Cabinet Doors with an Airless Sprayer. Getting A Professional Glossy Finish!
Video by The Idaho Painter
The Idaho Painter
What happens here
Learn about Painting Bare Wood Cabinet Doors with an Airless Sprayer. Getting a perfect glossy finish has never been so easy if you follow this in depth guide to getting an automobile-like finish.
Transcript
(19,208 characters)Hide
Transcript
(19,208 characters)this christy idaho painter here on paint life tv today i'm going to be painting some bare wood cabinet doors so if you want to see me spray these things sand them spray them again right here in this spray booth giving you some tips and tricks stay tuned for this video all right so i'm getting set up to spray my door so i'm going to be spraying today using an airless sprayer and i'm going to be using a water-based pu i've gone away from using a flammable lacquers or oil-based products just because of liability and these industrial coatings these waterborne coatings are absolutely amazing we'll give you a factory-like finish today i'm going to be using a renner product 1245 with a cross linker to give it some more chemical resistance and a little bit more durability so i'm going to start spraying here very soon i'm going i've got a titan 440 set up 440 impact i'm gonna be using a 310 tip a fine finish tip from titan got the rx pro gun my pressure is set at the pump a titan 440 doesn't have a gauge but i hooked up a titan hga gauge to the pump so at the pump i'm running around 1800 psi to spray these doors i'm going to be spraying i only got six of them so i'm going to be spraying them on a spray totally right here from paint line spraying them down i'll be spraying the backs first sanding them using my inspection light to make sure these things come out like glass and perfect with no imperfections and i'll be stacking them on the the small spray stack and then i'll be flipping them over and doing the opposite side so we're going to get going with spraying the backs of these things i'm going to show you what it looks like using the inspection light to make sure you don't have any imperfections you know on these doors and then we'll get get painting so here we go all right so i got my inspection light and table sanding table set up right here got my ekasan dustless sander set up where i'll be doing any type of sanding i need to do and you see i got my inspection light and the benefit to this is being able to set your uh your door drawer front or door front on a table like this in front of a bright light you'll be able to pick up on any type of imperfections that you might not catch just without any type of lighting assistance i've got a big nick right here on it i'm gonna be checking fronts and back before i do any type of spraying and do any type of repairs so this nick a lot of the little nicks and dings you can just sand them right out this one's pretty deep so i'll be using bondo to fill that one i'll begin checking all my doors and drawers here one by one to see if there's anything these were just done custom made by a cabinet shop sanded i would think that all of them are in pretty good shape this one right here there's a little tiny imperfection right there that's something that would actually just sand right out i've got my dustless eckasan series 2 vacuum setup right here hooked up to my sander so i'm just going to be looking at these all really quickly to see if there's anything major i need to repair on them i just see one that's i could sand out this one doesn't have anything on it looks good excellent there's a little pinhole right there i'm not sure what that is but we can fill that so i'm just going to be inspecting these it's very important to uh inspect first do any filling first after the first coat that will be our self-seal coat it will then we're going to be inspecting them once again and see if there's anything that we didn't catch the first time that would be our last opportunity to do any filling and then we'll be shooting our top coat hopefully your top coat after you inspect them when they're all done there's no filling to do all i see is there's one door a couple little spots this one here's a little spot right here that we could sand out right there so we'll be working on that and last one we've only got six to do so here's the last one nothing major um we've got some nicks and dings right here these will all sand out right here i don't need to do any filling so there's only two that need to be filled here's a little spot right here a little spot right here those will all stand out show you my sander setup i got i've got multiple different grits types of sponge sanding got anywhere from medium to fine to super fine these doors are been sanded really well somebody could use anything but just super fine or um very fine on them and then we'll get going so i'm i also got some pad savers i'm going to be using so i got my show you my eckasand sander right here this is a three by four sander if you do any type of cabinet painting especially professionally this is the standard you it's a must have absolute must-have tool right here so three by four sander you always want to have a pad saver on it in case you wear through you don't want to damage the pad it's a lot easier to replace a pad saver than it is the pad on your sander got it set on there this is a dustless sander so it's got four holes to take up the dust now i'm gonna be taking and sand in uh i don't get any contours to work around there's nothing that needs to be sanded on these edges so i'm just gonna be using some flat sandpaper right here i'm going to look for i've got 100 grit got multiple grits i'm going to be looking for some 150 grit flat sandpaper right here got my multiple grits from of ekka silk right here so here's a couple of 150s i don't think we'll need more than two all right so we're gonna be looking for the ones i needed to sand i had two that needed this one is you could tilt it back and forth and you can see really really good this one is in great shape no sanding ready to spray typically fill the ones with that need bondo i'd fill those first but since i'm filming right here i'm like this one's got spot needs to be bonded so i got to go get my bondo i don't have it right here yet so i'm skipping that process for just a second here the bondo dries really fast dries a lot harder than spackle it's better for filling small nicks and dings here's the one that had some spots on the face that need to be sanded [Music] [Applause] all right i'm beginning to do my first coat on my seal coat on my the backs of the doors i always want to do the backs of the doors first so when their final coat is done they're setting on the backs that's finished so you're not finishing up with your backs and having them set on your the front of the door that's going to be what everybody's going to see in the end so always do the backs first seal coat's going to go on this is not the top coat so i'm not so concerned about just getting this amazing layer on there but i want to get a good seal coat i'm going to be spraying it one way and then cross hatching it the other way so i've got my sprayer ready to go i'm gonna show you what it looks so if you're not vacuuming or dusting them off you can just brush them off with a duster brush typically when i spray with an hvop sprayer i just unhook the gun and i blow it off before i spray it but with an airless sprayer you don't have that luxury so you're going to have to dust it off right here prior to my top coat i'm going to make sure these things are dusted and complete cleaned really good after i'm done doing the final sand and prior to doing my top coat now i've got my spray boost set up right here i'm not inside of a house i don't have a ventilation system you know taking everything outside of the house we've got it all vented right out this garage door any dust can just carry right outside the garage door right here and all it is is just going to be dry dust anything that falls or actually carries outside first coat already looks nice and glassy all right one other pro tip i want to explain i got my doors i'm stacking in there you definitely want to stack from top down if you stack from bottom up as you slide doors in there if there's any dust or anything or debris that comes off the door or your hands or anything it's going to fall down on your freshly painted doors that you just did so always go top down when you're stacking them one thing i also want to explain is you know airless brain versus hvop sprans so one of the the benefits to hvlp spraying is you're not going to lose so much you can see there's a whole lot of overspray falling down on the ground right here so you're losing a lot in overspray so you're going to go through more product you can put it on heavier having it lay down like this you can put on a nice heavy coat and one thing good about these industrial uh waterborne pu's is they can be sprayed with an airless sprayer and you don't have to thin them like you do with an hvo p sprayer we're always having to thin our products you know typically like around 10 15 percent with then going through an hvlp but with airless it's nice and convenient not having to thin your products being able to spray them unthin getting a nice heavy coat also i do like spray and hanging because you can do both sides you know at one time but we only got six doors to do so i'm not in a hurry on this project so i can do you know um just do six doors laying down flat all in one day i'm gonna show you so i just got done with my six doors sprayed all of them this is the very first one i sprayed it's almost dry now it's uh dry to the touch in some spots there's just a few spots that are wet and that's one of the great things about these industrial uh 1kpus you got 1ks and 2kpus and they dry extremely fast unlike your typical water-based paints that you'd use from on cabinets that you'd get from your do-it-yourself stores or your local paint stores these are just great products so they dry super fast and they sand really easy so i'll be able to sand this in about 10 minutes and then shoot my next coat on it or you can flip it over sand the opposite side do your primer on the opposite side and then come back and do your top coat on the back so let these things dry it's uh the paneling not the the most ideal paneling that goes in the center of these things because it does raise the grain up a little bit you're gonna have to do a little bit of sanding to smooth that out but it's sealed we're going to get ready to do some sanding and show you what it looks like so there's only a couple spots that needed to be bonded one of them this little pinhole showed up you know after spraying and we're going to just take and put a little bit of bondo i don't need much it's just a tiny bit so i need to bundle that one but you can see how these panels aren't ideal for panels because it raises the grain a lot so there's a lot of sanding to get them really smooth final product but that's what our three by four sander is four so i had another one that had a pretty good ding on it and it's not how'd i miss it there's six it's a skipped one somewhere so the top one so this little nick right here that's the only other thing i needed a bondo in all of this so let's see i'm going to take think and we'll start priming i'm going to shoot sand this and do my opposite sides or so i'm going to sand this right now the back sides and shoot mice and then shoot my primer on my opposite sides let's see here i didn't say that right sorry okay all right now we're going to sand our back sides and then prime our front sides [Music] hmm so i'm using a heavier grit i'm using just my flat sand paper right here the 150 to be a little bit more aggressive to sand these panels to get them flat and smooth on this outside it's already smooth i don't want to burn through through to the wood so i'm using a super fine sponge half inch sponge to hit the sides so one of the reasons why i've chosen to start using ekkasan sanders and their ekka silk pads is man they're the best sanding pads that i've used they've last a long time cut really good it's a great product the sander these three by four sanders great for doing cabinet doors they're small easy to work with and are very versatile tools when it comes to they say sanding doors i can change pads change different size sponges and sand away now i can begin i'm going to dust them off and one thing i've noticed too from using these water-based uh products that if you start sanding them you know a little bit early what happens is the dust itself is a little bit heavy because i think it's a little bit saturated with moisture so it doesn't completely uh do dust-free sanding 100 but you can see i've been saying i sanded all these doors right here i've hardly got any dust didn't have to use a respirator so the set the sanding system is is excellent for doing dust-free sanding if i were to let them dry for maybe you know another hour more it would have actually picked up more of the dust because the dust would wouldn't have been weighed so weighted down with moisture so now i'm going to spray the opposite side i'm going to prime my opposite sides and then we'll do hard top coat on the backs [Music] so i'm going to show you on our booth here so we're we've got our booth facing outside that way we don't have to have any type of ventilation system because it got you know all this fresh air you know moving in and out i'm spraying that direction which the whole entire booth bottom top sides is all sealed you are getting some dust coming outside it's not wet overspray so you can see on this floor right here the epoxy floor that's just dry dust now if you're concerned about you know over spray once i'm all done this is all with just a blower it will it'll blow right off or just wipe right off with just your rag and some soap and water because it's just simply silica dust if you're concerned about that you can just even throw a drop cloth out a little ways that ways when you're stepping out you're stepping out onto a drop cloth so i'm not concerned about the dust because i always clean up at the end of the day and wipe things down clean things up and it is once again just dry dust floating outside the spray booth now you could actually just even put more drop cloths a little bit farther out but it's all settling you know right here it's all going back towards the back of the booth and you can see where i'm standing uh right there but i'm spraying in that direction i'm not standing on the sides and spraying to the direction where your wet droplets of paint are coming outside the booth so i'm continuing right along we are i've got both sides primed now we got front back primed now i'm going to start spraying the back sides so we'll get our final coat on the back sides we've already sanded the back sides we'll let them dry and do our final coat on the front side and i'll give you some tips and tricks when it comes to spraying too so i know some people are going to ask probably do i caulk panels and when i'm doing repaints on existing cabinets there are occasions when i do caulk the panels and i got a video explaining when and why i do that when it comes to new wood panels i never the panels because i want them to look like a factory finish and you won't get gap bridging if you spray properly and um and use proper products and use proper techniques so get ready i do on my final coat i'm gonna be very particular about dusting things off i got my air compressor i don't want any dust on my final coat so i'm going to dust these off really well and then we'll get going spraying i now i'm going to begin we've changed our process a couple times in doing this and i'm going to be doing my final coat on my backs but before i do the back the final coat i want to sand my seal coat on the front of the doors that way after i do my top coat on this side i'm not laying it down and sanding while that top coat is facing down on the paper so i'm going to be sanding now our seal coat on all the doors to get these ready for their final coats on both sides once again i'm using a flat sanding piece of sandpaper a 150 on the flat surface right here and on the outside i'm going to be using a super fine sponge right here half inch sponge i'll show you can see there's my inspection light is showing one little spot and this is probably the spot that we originally uh bonded right there and it's still showing up slightly so i'm going to put another coat of bondo on that to get that to go away now that door is all sanded i'm just going to feel it real quick to make sure all edges feel smooth and then i'll set that one aside to be ready to be sprayed here in just a moment inspection light is discovered another tiny little nick that i don't want to leave there so i'm going to fill this one too and once again bondo this is the stuff that's going to fill a little tiny imperfections like this where spackle will not and it's it dries really fast sands really easy and fills little tiny nicks and dings like that all right i'm going to give you a couple tips when i'm spraying my top coat now on these new doors when it comes to the cracks and stuff i kind of angled my gun to get it on these edges and get it in the cracks but you don't want to over build in the cracks otherwise you could get the product filling and bridging the gap on the final coats i'm going to be spraying it straight up and down so i don't get any more product down into the crack of the doors oh here we go getting ready for final coat backside of the doors [Music] take a look at that like glass that's going to gel out be an amazing finish so i'm blowing these things off dusting them off then i'm hitting it with my duster brush just in case the blower didn't get anything off and then re-blowing it one more time take it inspect it make sure it's everything you like good to go all right now we're down to our final step and that is actually painting the faces of the doors with our final coat so this is another important process one thing i like to do prior to spraying my final coat is because i've been sanding a lot and spraying a lot i go in wash my hands make sure my hands are nice and clean because i'm handling the back sides of these doors which is the top coat on the back sides of the doors and you want to do that with clean hands so here we go all right there you have it our doors are all done all six doors are done i'm gonna wait till tomorrow i'm going to trav just deliver them deliver them to the customer all finished and complete some simple tips and tips and tricks painting cabinet doors that are bare wood using water-based 1kpu products that are sprayed with an airless sprayer hopefully you've enjoyed this video hit the subscribe button hit the notification bell if you haven't done so already simple way to help support our channel it's free simple and easy to do it just allows you to be notified every time we come out with a new video also hit the notification settings to allow you to get notified you know by youtube when paint life tv comes out with a new video if you've enjoyed the video give us a thumbs up if you got any questions or comments about this process that i went through painting cabinet doors leave them down in the comment section below we love reading your comments and answering your comments and helping you guys out here right on paint live tv and like we always say we'll see you on our next video [Music]
Auto-generated from the video audio.