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Learn window and flashing installation. Learn how to keep the water out💪 #window #flashing #learn

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Video by BAS Renovations

BAS Renovations

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This project provides a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to properly flash and install a new construction flanged window, emphasizing water management and air sealing. It covers framing essentials like headers and rough sills, preparing the water-resistant barrier (WRB), applying pan and side flashing, sealing the window flange, installing the window itself, and adding a drip cap for enhanced protection. The video highlights common mistakes and best practices for preventing water intrusion.

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Before a window gets installed, you'll need to install a header. This header takes the loads from above and distributes the weight down and around this opening. This allows our rough sill to bear only the weight of the window. This can get pitched to a 5° angle, but doesn't have to be. And then sheathing. This window is labeled 24 in by 24 in, so our rough opening will be those measurements, even though our window measurement is a 1/4 in short. This is for new construction windows and flanged windows. It's not always the case for all windows. How you can attach your water-resistant barrier. The woven style house wrap can hold water without leaking, but still allows vapors to release through the woven holes. This allows the house wrap to shed water. Also allows water vapor to escape when it's inside. Depending on siding choice, you might want to use a drainable house wrap. A rain screen works by keeping a gap from the material to the house wrap. So, when water flows, it can easily flow behind this 1 mm gap. Cut your window opening. Cut your top corners. Lift it out of the way. Trim back your sides. Cut your pan flashing 6 in or higher up the side of the opening. Regardless of flashing width, be sure that you can overlap 2 in. Now you can cut out your corners. Add additional layers if you still need to cover your sill. Depending on the manufacturer, you might need butyl tape instead of asphalt tape. Then two pieces for your corners. Remember to overlap from the bottom to the top. This allows water to flow down like this compared to if it's on the top, water can flow down and potentially trap water. Now I'll add a bead of sealant. I like to put this on decent right below the nailing. It's a great idea to put sealant on the top and the sides of a window. You never want to put sealant on the bottom. If you were to seal this bottom edge, when your window gets installed, it can cause water to get trapped in this space, and this can run back into your house. This is another good reason to pitch your sill or use a sill flashing. Now we'll install the window level and plumb, and be sure to fill all the holes with a flat-headed fastener. When you adhere your tape, it only sticks to the house wrap and the vinyl on the window. This can allow more air and water penetration into the window. If the house wrap gets cut back, this gives you a seal on the house wrap, the OSB, and the window. This prevents more air and water from sneaking behind this window. Now, cut two pieces that go from the top cut and extend down well past the bottom of the window. This will cover your flange and extend below your window. Now, install your top piece under the house wrap. In this case, you could flap this over and be done. New construction windows do have a flange, but a smarter idea is to install a drip cap. The drip cap ensures if you ever have any flashing failure, water will divert, hit the cap, and still run down the side of the window. As you see as water makes it into the window, it comes out these vents. If these vents get clogged or caulked, this water can fill the channel and flow back into your house. But when these vents are free, it allows this water to run out and empty your channel. Thanks for watching. >> Am I okay?

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