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Framing a Rake Wall

12:35
14:50
435.6K views

At 12:35 in

Learn House Framing and Why it Fails

What happens here

The builder demonstrates lifting a gable (rake) wall into position. He explains that for continuous stud (or balloon-framed) rake walls, the studs run from the bottom plate all the way to the top of the rake. He details how to calculate the cut for these rake studs using a building calculator: the formula is (stud spacing * roof pitch) / 12 = 'take'. For example, with 16-inch on-center (O.C.) spacing and a 7/12 roof pitch, the 'take' is 9 5/16 inches. This 'take' value represents the increase in length for each subsequent stud as you move towards the peak of the rake. He then marks the precise pitch and seat cut angles on the stud using a speed square for accurate cutting.

Goal: Construct a rake wall with continuous studs and proper calculations

Tools and materials

  • Building Calculator Johnson — Calculating the 'take' or length increase for each rake stud based on pitch and spacing
  • Measuring Tape — Measuring stud spacing and overall dimensions
  • Pencil Dixon — Marking cuts on lumber
  • Rake Wall Studs — The vertical members that form the sloped sides of the gable wall
  • Speed Square Swanson Tool — Marking precise pitch and seat cuts on lumber

What they say

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the separation. Keep in mind for your ridge beam, it's not going to just be a 2 by 4, it'll most likely be an LVL unless it's a really short span. And then install your subfascia. For your fascia, instead of landing a seam in the middle of your rafter, just install a block in between the rafters and land your seam there. Consistent measurement on your plates and your ridge height are two of the most important measurements you'll get. If you follow these measurements and you don't make deviations, by the time you get to the top of your building, everything will line up and it goes way easier. Even if your building is out of plumb while you're building it, as long as these measurements are the same, when you plumb your walls, everything should still line up. One mistake is all it takes to throw your building off, and then you'll find yourself trying to compensate, and when you compensate is when you end up making more mistakes, and then it never lines up. As you build, you need to install bracing. Lateral bracing keeps the structure from racking and potentially falling. We'll screw down a brace and use a wedge to prop under this brace. The more that we push, the more it pulls this wall in that direction. We'll cut a small piece to push off this exterior wall. As this gets pushed down, it pushes our structure this way and install a lateral brace. Another option is attach your brace on the bottom, put it in the corner, and then just push down and this can straighten out your structure also. Don't forget that houses do fall down. One brace is really great here, but you'll need braces in different areas and even on the roof before you install sheathing. Hurricane ties or other fasteners attach your rafters or trusses to your top plate. This connection resists uplift and creates a connection all the way to the foundation. If one of these doesn't get installed and you get uplift,

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