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With the pump running, watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise until it reaches the cut-out pressure (e.g., 50 PSI), at which point the pump should shut off. Now, close the faucet you had open. The system should hold pressure. Open a faucet elsewhere in the house and watch the gauge again. The pressure will drop, and when it hits the cut-in pressure (e.g., 30 PSI), the pump should turn back on. Let the pump run through a few cycles to confirm it is working correctly. Go around the house and open faucets one by one to purge any air trapped in the lines until they run smoothly.
This guide provides comprehensive, step-by-step instructions for safely removing an old well pressure tank and installing a new one. The process includes de-energizing the system, draining the water, disconnecting plumbing and electrical components, preparing the new tank with the correct air pre-charge, installing new fittings, and testing the system for leaks and proper operation.
Absolutely always turn off the power to your well pump at the main electrical panel first. Then, fully drain the entire water system to relieve all pressure. This prevents electric shock, water damage, and injury from pressurized components.
For a beginner, plan for 2-4 hours, assuming you have all tools and materials ready. The material cost, primarily for the new pressure tank and fittings, can range from $200 to $600, depending on the tank size and brand, plus a few dollars for tape and rags.
Pre-charging with air prevents the tank from becoming 'waterlogged' and ensures your pump cycles efficiently, extending its lifespan. Set the tank's air pressure (when empty) to 2 PSI below your well pump's 'cut-in' pressure (the pressure at which your pump turns on).
You'll definitely need a sturdy pipe wrench (like the 16-inch self-adjusting one mentioned) for plumbing connections, a tire pressure gauge to check the tank's pre-charge, and a water pressure gauge to monitor system pressure. Slip-joint pliers are also very helpful for various fittings.
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