Skip to main content

Set Shower Base in Concrete — Backfill and Repair Floor

Intermediate20 hours

Part of project

How to Install a Backwater Valve to Prevent Sewer Backups · Step 6 of 6

Helpful?

In this video

The wet concrete is poured onto the floor in the shower area using a makeshift chute made from a piece of metal flashing. The concrete is spread out to cover the entire footprint of the shower base. The shower base is then carefully lowered into the wet concrete. The installer pushes it down to ensure it is fully bedded and uses a level to confirm it is perfectly flat and sloped correctly towards the drain. He taps on the base to check for hollow spots, confirming it is solidly supported everywhere.

Goal: Install Shower Base

  • Work quickly once the concrete is poured, as it will begin to set. Ensure the shower drain is covered to prevent concrete from falling in.

Used in this video

  • Metal Flashing/Chute (Material: Metal) · optionalDirecting the flow of concrete into hard-to-reach areas.
  • Level (Tool Type: Measuring Tools)Ensuring the shower base is perfectly level after being set in the concrete.
67.9K views18045-60 minutes
The Plumbers Plunger

201K subscribers

View Channel

FAQs

Is installing a backwater valve a feasible DIY project, or should I hire a professional plumber?

This is an intermediate-level project requiring significant physical labor, specialized tools (like a concrete saw or a heavy-duty sledgehammer for breaking concrete), and a good understanding of plumbing codes and concrete work. While possible for experienced DIYers, if you're not comfortable with breaking concrete, excavating near sewage lines, or ensuring proper slope and sealing, it's highly advisable to consult a licensed plumber. Improper installation can lead to leaks, blockages, or failure to prevent backups.

What permits or inspections are typically required before starting this kind of major plumbing work?

Absolutely, permits are almost always required for altering your main sewer line. You'll need to contact your local municipal building department or plumbing authority to understand their specific requirements for plumbing and excavation permits. Failing to obtain permits can lead to fines, stop-work orders, or requiring you to remove and reinstall the work if it doesn't meet code. Plan for inspections at various stages, such as after excavation and after the valve installation but before backfilling.

What are the most critical safety precautions I should take when breaking concrete and working with sewer lines?

When breaking concrete, always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, work gloves, and steel-toed boots. For working with sewer lines, always wear impermeable gloves (like nitrile or rubber) and a mask to protect against biohazards and odors. Ensure proper ventilation in the work area. Be extremely cautious of other utility lines (water, gas, electrical) that might run through the concrete slab; call 811 before you dig to mark utilities.

What size backwater valve do I need, and are there different types or brands I should consider?

The valve size must match your existing main drain pipe, which is typically 3-inch or 4-inch PVC in residential homes (e.g., Oatey 3 in. or 6 in. valves are listed as materials). Visually inspect your drain pipe to confirm its diameter before purchasing. There are two main types: normally open (most common, stays open until activated by backpressure) and normally closed (requires manual opening for regular flow); ensure the valve you choose is suitable for your application and approved by local plumbing codes.

Transcript
Hide

I have the hole there for where we did the drain. I want to put the concrete here at the same time to support the shower base feeling that hope. Yeah, so let's go for it. My idea of what I have in here. I have some piece of pipe so I just did the way that I shoot the cement right in there. I am just going to put the cement in here to just run and I need the shower base. And fill in the hole at the same time. You guys can see here where it is going. It is already spreading there for you in the hole. And the other side is already going on the shower base. You guys can see the cement is going in the support in there. And since this side is a little bit higher than the other side, it is just going to run right underneath it. I think we have enough here to support the shower base. I am just going to push it in a little bit more. Here guys, the concrete just running from there came out here. I still going to mix a little bit more, try to push a little bit more here. And they need it to give the as much support as I can. But I just going to come from the back and then push some more concrete in. Because I want the shower base to be sitting nice and flat on the concrete. That way it doesn't make a squeeze sound when somebody has a shower in it. And this works very good. I just get a work around it. I am going to mix another bucket and try to push it as much as I can. We will do one upstairs. Because we have a shower upstairs. Like you guys can see in there. I am just going to use foam from down here the way it is. I am just going to get a long nose from the foam. And I am just going to spray it right here. That will do the job. Hello my friends! The shower here is set. Like you guys can see, the concrete that I put from the other side is just split down here. I have the stinging field. I am just going to show you guys. You can feel the sound. Look at this. This is foam. It is like a rock in it. Full of concrete. Very much anywhere you push. This one here.

Auto-generated transcript. May contain errors.