Test the Pump — Test the New Pump
Part of project
How to Replace a Submersible Sump Pump · Step 7 of 7
In this video
Before reinstalling the pump in the pit, perform a dry test. Plug the pump into a power outlet. With the float in the down position, the pump should not run. Manually lift the float switch arm; the pump should turn on. Lower the arm, and the pump should turn off. This confirms the switch is working correctly. Do not run the pump dry for more than a few seconds.
Goal: Verify the repair
- Do not run the pump dry for an extended period as it can cause damage.
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FAQs
What is the most critical safety step when replacing a submersible sump pump?
Always disconnect all power to the sump pump circuit at your electrical panel before touching anything in the pit. Working with water and electricity can be extremely dangerous if power isn't completely off. Also, wear heavy-duty gloves for protection against contaminants and sharp edges.
The project is rated 'beginner' with a 6-hour estimate. What should a beginner be prepared for, or what could extend the time?
While the steps are straightforward, beginners might find challenges with rusted or stuck fittings, managing the wet environment, or achieving proper pipe alignment. Having all tools, like the Channellock 10 in. pliers and HDPE PPR PVC Pipe Cutter, ready will help keep you on schedule. Thoroughly cleaning the pit can also be time-consuming.
Are there any specific tools or materials listed that are absolutely essential and cannot be easily substituted?
Yes, a proper pipe cutter (like the Hayes PC2-64) is crucial for a clean, straight cut on the PVC discharge pipe. The wet-dry vacuum is also essential for effectively cleaning out the sump pit. Don't skip the Teflon tape for sealing threaded connections on the new check valve and adapters.
What's a common mistake during installation that could lead to the new pump not working correctly or failing prematurely?
A frequent error is installing the EZ-FLO 1 in. Brass In-Line Check Valve backward, which prevents water from exiting or allows it to flow back in, causing the pump to short cycle. Ensure the arrow on the check valve points in the direction of water flow (upwards and out). Improperly adjusting the float switch is another common issue.
Test the Pump — Test the New Pump
Part of project
How to Replace a Submersible Sump Pump · Step 7 of 7
In this video
Before reinstalling the pump in the pit, perform a dry test. Plug the pump into a power outlet. With the float in the down position, the pump should not run. Manually lift the float switch arm; the pump should turn on. Lower the arm, and the pump should turn off. This confirms the switch is working correctly. Do not run the pump dry for more than a few seconds.
Goal: Verify the repair
- Do not run the pump dry for an extended period as it can cause damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most critical safety step when replacing a submersible sump pump?
Always disconnect all power to the sump pump circuit at your electrical panel before touching anything in the pit. Working with water and electricity can be extremely dangerous if power isn't completely off. Also, wear heavy-duty gloves for protection against contaminants and sharp edges.
The project is rated 'beginner' with a 6-hour estimate. What should a beginner be prepared for, or what could extend the time?
While the steps are straightforward, beginners might find challenges with rusted or stuck fittings, managing the wet environment, or achieving proper pipe alignment. Having all tools, like the Channellock 10 in. pliers and HDPE PPR PVC Pipe Cutter, ready will help keep you on schedule. Thoroughly cleaning the pit can also be time-consuming.
Are there any specific tools or materials listed that are absolutely essential and cannot be easily substituted?
Yes, a proper pipe cutter (like the Hayes PC2-64) is crucial for a clean, straight cut on the PVC discharge pipe. The wet-dry vacuum is also essential for effectively cleaning out the sump pit. Don't skip the Teflon tape for sealing threaded connections on the new check valve and adapters.
What's a common mistake during installation that could lead to the new pump not working correctly or failing prematurely?
A frequent error is installing the EZ-FLO 1 in. Brass In-Line Check Valve backward, which prevents water from exiting or allows it to flow back in, causing the pump to short cycle. Ensure the arrow on the check valve points in the direction of water flow (upwards and out). Improperly adjusting the float switch is another common issue.