How to Replace a Submersible Sump Pump
About This Project
This guide provides comprehensive, step-by-step instructions for safely removing an old submersible sump pump from a sump pit and installing a new one. The process includes disconnecting power, detaching the old pump, preparing the new pump with necessary fittings, installing it in the pit, and testing its operation to ensure proper function.
Best for experienced DIYers and homeowners with some experience with basic plumbing knowledge and familiarity with power tools. Requires FLUKE 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester 2432932.
Tools & Materials
PowerSmith 1500 Lumens Rechargeable LED Work Light with Foldable Magnetic Stand PWLR015FM
FLUKE 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester 2432932
Milwaukee 8 in. x 3/8 in. Slotted Flat Head Screwdriver with Cushion Grip MT209
JONARD TOOLS Nut Driver, 5/16 in. Hex Tip, 3 in. Hollow Shaft with Wide Ergonomic Comfort Grip, Blue ND-630516
Safety gloves
HDX Indoor Safety Glasses Clear (1-Pack) VS-9300, clear
PowerSmith 1500 Lumens Rechargeable LED Work Light with Foldable Magnetic Stand PWLR015FM
PowerSmith brings innovation and performance together in the NEW Foldable magnetic LED work light with 1500 TRUE Lumen output. Rugged yet stylish design are blended in an all steel construction light that folds flat for storage and charges your mobile devices for emergency use. Stay ready for the storm with up to 8-hours of runtime and 18-months of availability at full charge when not in use. Rotate the lamp head 360° and adjust the magnetic folding stand with 5 detent positions to get light exactly where it's need during snow, rain, sleet or hail. Includes USB-C Charging Cable. Buy with confidence from PowerSmith with a 2-Year Warranty and US Based Customer Support.
FLUKE 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester 2432932
The portable 1 AC II non-contact voltage tester from Fluke are easy to use - just touch the tip to a terminal strip, outlet or supply cord. When the tip glows red and the unit beeps, you know there's voltage present. Electricians, maintenance, service, safety personnel and homeowners can quickly test for energized circuits in the workplace or at home and even detect miswires of an electrical outlet.
Milwaukee 8 in. x 3/8 in. Slotted Flat Head Screwdriver with Cushion Grip MT209
The Milwaukee® 3/8" Slotted 8" Cushion Grip Screwdrivers (USA) are manufactured to give the professional the best-fitting screwdriver with max grip. These screwdriver tips are custom machined to deliver
JONARD TOOLS Nut Driver, 5/16 in. Hex Tip, 3 in. Hollow Shaft with Wide Ergonomic Comfort Grip, Blue ND-630516
Jonard's Nut Drivers have a full length hollow shaft, making them a great tool to use on stacked circuit boards and long bolts/studs. The rubberized handle provides the user better grip on the tool in
Safety gloves
Shields hands from potential harm.
HDX Indoor Safety Glasses Clear (1-Pack) VS-9300, clear
Indoor safety glasses with anti-scratch lenses absorb UV lights and protect the eyes from particles, airborne debris and most commonly encountered eye hazards. Strong wraparound, light weight PC lens offer great and comfortable eye protection for indoor projects. Meet the requirements of ANZI Z87.1.
Steps
Prepare Work Area and Disconnect Power
15 minsBefore beginning, ensure your work area is clear and well-lit. The most critical first step is to completely de-energize the sump pump. Unplug the sump pump from the wall outlet. As a secondary precaution, locate the corresponding circuit breaker in your home's electrical panel and switch it to the 'OFF' position. Verify that the power is off by trying to turn on a device on the same circuit if possible.
Disconnect the Discharge Pipe
15 minsLocate the discharge pipe coming from the pump. You will likely see a check valve a foot or two above the sump pit cover. This valve prevents water from flowing back into the pit after the pump shuts off. Your pipe is likely connected above this valve with a rubber coupling held by two hose clamps. Using a flathead screwdriver or a 5/16" nut driver, loosen both metal hose clamps on the coupling until the coupling can be moved freely. You may need to gently wiggle the pipe to separate the two sections.
Remove the Old Sump Pump
10 minsWith the discharge pipe disconnected, remove the sump pit lid. Carefully lift the old sump pump, along with the attached lower section of pipe and check valve, straight up and out of the pit. The pump will be heavy and full of dirty water. Immediately place the entire assembly into a large bucket or trash can to catch drips and contain the mess. Carry it outside or to a utility sink for disassembly.
Prepare the New Pump and Discharge Pipe
30 minsTake the new sump pump out of its box. The new pump will have a threaded discharge port. Wrap the threads of the new male-threaded PVC adapter with 3-4 layers of Teflon tape in a clockwise direction. Screw this adapter tightly into the pump's discharge port and give it a final tightening with a pair of channel-lock pliers or a pipe wrench. Now, prepare the PVC discharge pipe. You will likely reuse the existing pipe, but you must install a new check valve. Cut the old check valve off the pipe if necessary using a hacksaw. Clean the pipe ends. If you are using solvent-weld fittings, apply PVC primer and then PVC cement to the pipe and the new check valve fitting, and press them together firmly. Ensure the arrow on the check valve points UP, away from the pump. Attach the prepared pipe to the adapter on the pump.
Install the New Sump Pump
20 minsCarefully lower the new pump assembly into the center of the sump pit. Ensure the pump sits flat and level on the bottom of the pit, not on any debris. Crucially, check that the pump's float switch can move freely up and down without touching the sides of the pit or any other pipes. Once positioned, re-align the pump's discharge pipe with the main drain line. Slide the rubber coupling back into place so it bridges both pipes and tighten the hose clamps securely with your screwdriver or nut driver.
Test the New Pump
15 minsIt's time to test your work. Plug the pump's power cord back into the electrical outlet. Using a bucket or a garden hose, slowly pour water into the sump pit. Continue adding water until the level rises high enough to lift the float switch, which will activate the pump. Watch and listen as the pump turns on and ejects the water from the pit. Once the water level drops, the float switch should fall and the pump should turn off. Observe the pipe connections for any leaks during operation. Repeat the test cycle once more to be certain.
Finalize Installation and Clean Up
15 minsOnce you have confirmed the pump is working correctly, you can finalize the installation. Secure the pump's power cord to the discharge pipe with a zip tie, ensuring it is well away from the float switch mechanism to prevent any chance of entanglement. Place the sump pit lid securely back in place. Finally, restore power at the circuit breaker if you turned it off. Clean up your tools and work area.
Common Problems
Unplug the pump before working on it to prevent electric shock.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Water will be present in the pipe above the check valve; disconnect slowly to control the spill.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Rigid pipe makes future pump replacement difficult and time-consuming.
Solution: A flexible coupling makes the connection simple and allows for easy disassembly in the future.
Pipes won't connect or are misaligned after gluing.
Solution: Dry fit all your pipes and fittings before gluing to ensure proper alignment and length.
Ensure all threaded connections are tight to prevent air leaks, which can cause the pump to lose its prime.
Solution: To avoid this issue: Be mindful of this warning and take appropriate precautions.
Leaking pipe connections due to unraveling Teflon tape.
Solution: Wrapping Teflon tape in the same direction you will be tightening the fitting helps prevent it from unraveling.
Fittings may leak or unwind if tape is applied incorrectly.
Solution: Wrapping tape clockwise ensures it doesn't bunch up or unwind when you tighten the fitting.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the most important safety precaution when replacing a submersible sump pump, especially since it involves electricity and water?
Always disconnect the power to the sump pump circuit at your electrical panel *before* starting any work to prevent electrical shock. Wear safety glasses and gloves throughout the process for eye and hand protection. Ensure your work area is dry and well-lit.
The tool and material list is quite specific. Are there any items I absolutely cannot skip or substitute when replacing my sump pump?
Safety glasses and gloves are non-negotiable for personal protection. A check valve, such as the Everbilt 1-1/2 in. Brass Check Valve, is crucial to prevent pumped water from flowing back into the pit. Proper PVC cement and primer are also essential for creating secure, leak-proof discharge pipe connections that will withstand pressure.
The project is rated as 'beginner' with a 5-hour estimated time. Is this realistic for someone with limited DIY experience?
Yes, the 'beginner' rating is appropriate because the steps are straightforward, but the 5-hour estimate accounts for careful work and potential minor adjustments. Taking your time to properly disconnect, cut, fit, and seal everything ensures a successful, leak-free installation. Don't rush; precision is key.
What's a common mistake people make when installing a new sump pump, and how can I avoid it or troubleshoot if something goes wrong?
A very common mistake is installing the check valve backward, which will prevent the pump from discharging water. Always check the flow direction arrow on the check valve to ensure it points away from the pump. If the pump runs but no water exits, immediately check the check valve orientation and ensure there are no blockages in the discharge pipe.
My sump pit is full of water. How should I prepare it for the removal of the old pump?
Before attempting to remove the old pump, you need to drain as much water as possible from the pit. If your old pump is still working, let it run until the pit is mostly empty. Otherwise, you can use a separate utility pump or manually bail out the water with a bucket (like the Unger 6 Gal. Heavy-Duty Plastic Bucket) to make the area accessible and safer.
Why is it important to use Teflon tape or thread sealant on threaded connections, even if they appear to fit tightly?
Teflon tape or thread sealant is crucial for creating a watertight seal on threaded connections, such as where the discharge pipe adapter screws into the pump. It fills microscopic gaps in the threads, preventing leaks under pressure. Skipping this step often leads to drips and potential water damage.
After installing the new pump, how do I properly test it to ensure it's working correctly?
Once the installation is complete and power is reconnected, you'll need to manually fill the sump pit with water using a hose or buckets until the float switch activates the pump. Observe that the pump efficiently discharges the water and that the check valve prevents backflow when the pump shuts off. Listen for any unusual noises and check all connections for leaks.