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Install Main Stack & Vents — Installing Bathroom Drain Lines: Ensuring Proper Slope

Intermediate30 hours

Part of project

Bathroom Plumbing Installation: A Complete DIY Guide · Step 3 of 5

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In this video

Connect the drain lines from vanity sinks, shower and toilet, and create the main stack that goes down the wall into the crawl space. Install vent system and ensure adequate slope in the vent lines.

Goal: Install main stack and vents

  • Use PVC cement to connect ABS pipes and fittings.
  • Ensure proper ventilation to prevent sewer gases from entering the house.

Used in this video

  • Reciprocating saw (brand: DeWalt, Tool Type: Hacksaw, Power Source: Cordless, Material Compatibility: PVC) — Cutting the ABS pipes
  • Plumbing straps (Quantity: Multiple) — Securing the pipes in place.
  • Level — Ensure proper slope of the drain lines.
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FAQs

Given the 'intermediate' difficulty and '30 hours' estimated time, is this project suitable for someone with limited plumbing experience?

This project is challenging and requires careful attention to detail and local codes. While an intermediate rating means it's not for total beginners, someone with strong DIY skills can succeed by researching thoroughly and starting with smaller plumbing repairs first. Be prepared for potential time overruns, as unforeseen issues can extend the project timeline significantly.

Are the specialized tools like the SharkBite PEX cutter and Crescent pipe wrench absolutely necessary, or can I use more common tools?

While you might be able to use a hacksaw for PEX or standard adjustable wrenches, the specialized tools are highly recommended for efficiency, accuracy, and ease of use. The PEX cutter ensures clean, straight cuts crucial for leak-free connections, and a self-adjusting pipe wrench simplifies working in tight spaces and applying correct torque. Investing in these tools will save frustration and potential rework.

The materials list mentions PEX. Is PEX the best choice for a DIYer compared to traditional copper or CPVC, and why?

PEX is generally an excellent choice for DIYers due to its flexibility, ease of installation, and fewer connection points compared to rigid copper or CPVC. It requires fewer specialized soldering skills (unlike copper) and is more forgiving than CPVC for mistakes. The ability to run long, continuous lines reduces the risk of leaks associated with multiple fittings.

What are the most critical plumbing codes or safety precautions I need to be aware of when installing bathroom plumbing?

Always shut off the main water supply before starting any work and drain the lines. Crucially, familiarize yourself with your local plumbing codes regarding drain line slope, venting, trap arm distances, and pipe sizing, as non-compliance can lead to failed inspections, health hazards, or costly rework. Proper ventilation prevents sewer gases from entering your home and ensures proper drainage.

Transcript
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sure our drain is in the center of it after finishing and dry fitting everything together upstairs and getting all of our holes cut we then moved on to all the plumbing under the second floor this is the drain line that comes from those two vanity sinks and it's going to go over pick up the water from the shower and then move all the way over to the end of the building and then finally hook on to that toilet drain once it's that toilet drain we'll go into the main stack that goes down the wall and into the crawlspace after gluing together all the pipes for the vanity we then strapped it in place with some plumbing strap just to keep it secure once we got the upstairs vanities glued together we then glued together everything under the floor so when we're out here before we made a mistake whereas you can't use well you can use a 90 degree angle to go horizontal to horizontal however every time you change 90 degrees at one time on a horizontal you need a clean-out so we don't really want to put a cleanup here because then you would have to have a hatch to access it or something we'd have to go up into the wall up there so we're gonna cut it right about here go 45 then come over and then go to a Y and just have our shower come down and take a 90 over into the same same place it didn't feel very good having to cut out what we had just glued together but it needed to be done the inspector would have pretty much failed us for that and it's not correct so we need to correct it after making sure our angle on that why was gonna fit we then glued in our 45s and include that little piece to the Y we then went back in to patched the p-trap underneath the shower to the drain above it and then attach that to the Y as well as you can see with our shower drain we don't have it venting directly from where the pea trap is or anywhere near it we're actually using what's called a wet vent which means part of the drain line is acting as the vent for that particular fixture we're close enough to the toilet vent and also close enough to our bandit events that we could use either of those as our wet vent these 3-inch fittings took a lot of glue and we made sure that we put a lot of glue on them that way we had a nice good positive connection you're supposed to turn it about a quarter turn and then hold it tight for about 30 seconds to make sure everything sets in place this last fitting before the three-inch main stack goes into the crawlspace and connects up with our drain line…

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