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Header Installation Methods and Headroom Implications

1:40
2:39
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At 1:40 in

Removing load bearing walls 😬 #carpentry #learn #loadbearing #structure

What happens here

The video explains why the continuous top plate should not be removed, as it handles lateral loads and ties the header into the continuous wall structure. It then presents three common ways to install headers: 1. Below both the bottom and top plate (easiest, but lowest headroom). 2. Up to the top plate (better headroom). 3. Flush with the joists (best headroom, hardest, most expensive, requires joist hangers and may extend into the floor above).

Goal: Understand different header installation methods and their impact on headroom and structural requirements.

Tools and materials

  • Joist Hangers — Demonstrating flush header installation
  • Pencil N/A — Marking cuts
  • Pointer Stick N/A — Highlighting diagram elements
  • Speed Square N/A — Demonstrating marking cuts on joists
  • Whiteboard N/A — Illustrating header placement options
  • Wood Blocks — Demonstrating header installation methods
  • Dry Erase Marker N/A — Drawing and writing on the whiteboard

What they say

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even bigger footing sizes. The reason you don't remove your top plate is because it handles lateral load. This top plate keeps the header a part of a continuous wall. If you lift the header fully to the joists, then it will require strapping from the top plate to the header. In this case, the strapping will get installed here and here. These headers typically get installed in three ways. The header installed below both the bottom and top plate. This is the easiest but has the lowest head room. The header installed up to the top plate. This method is a little harder but still pretty easy. The last method you would cut these joists both here and here and install your header flush. And this will get installed with joist hangers. These are the wrong size. I know. This will be the hardest and most expensive way. The header below the

Auto-generated from the video audio.