Painting Trim without BRUSH MARKS!

okay this Christie item okay are here on paint live TV today I got a video on mastering spraying trend this is a compliation video this is going all the way back to 2011 to 2020 putting together my best content of mastering and spraying trim like a pro it's a longer video so grab a drink grab a beer grab a soda whatever you got sit back relax and watch this video if you haven't subscribed to my channel hit the subscribe button hit the notification bell if you don't do both of them there's a really do anything it's kind of a weird thing with YouTube but you've got to hit the subscribe button notification bell it's free just a couple clicks easy to do does it cost you anything you're just getting notified every time I come out with a new video but now we're gonna get on with spraying trim hopefully by the time you're done watching these videos you'll be a master at spraying trim yeah it does take a whole lot of practice you're not going to be able to spray trim like a pro in one day two days or even three days but this is gonna get you on that path down the road a spray and trim in creating fine Auto via light finishes but enough of this let's get on with the video why don't you tips and sit in front of me and I'm gonna be talking about tips what tips I use when I use them and where I use them and that I can really feel simple by this process like I like to simplify a lot of things in the painting process just to make it more faster and more efficient so you can just make money and you don't have to make a whole lot of decisions here's three tips in front of me if I can have only three tips these are the three tips I have this is the 310 fine finish 310 this is a high production 515 tip and then this is a Titan HEA 619 tip and I'll talk a little bit about each one of those and where I use them but I've used probably over the last five years almost as exclusively these three tips right here and all the interior and exterior painting I've done on interior and exterior repaints so I went in the new construction industry it would be a little bit different what tips I would have but this is the repaint industry and I'll first talk about fine finish tips and I got 3:10 tip right here that I'll talk about this is all the tips that you're sitting here in front of me these are all tightening tips if you don't understand tip sizing the numbers I'll just give a really quick breakdown but I have another video that explains it in depth the first number the three you've multiplied by two and that gives you the fan width at 12 inches from your surface so this is a six-inch fan and the next number the 10 the two-digit number that's your orifice size tells you you know this how much paint is actually coming out of the tip when you're spraying and every manufacturer has your their own own color coding no titans tips purple tips are fine finish tips so these tips are gonna give you a really fine fish like an automobile finish on certain things that you're painting like trim cabinets in furniture stuff like that when you were it's really critical you don't have any type of egg shelling on your finish but it just levels out and gives you a buttery smooth finish if I can only have one fine finish tip it would be a 3/10 tip and that would be you know I'm doing repaints and so to me I'd be using the tip like this to scrape doors I'd spray gutters with it I would spray my interior trim pack anything where I wanted a fine finish if I'm just gonna spray cabinets with an airless sprayer I'm gonna use the fine finished if a310 just about everything I would use a 310 now if I had the opportunity to add one more fine finish tip in there I'd have a 5-10 tip when I was doing new construction most of my new construction was using a 510 because we were spraying a lot of doors and new construction you've got a wider fan and you can move a little bit faster you can do your doors faster and new construction and new construction is all about speed but this is the most versatile fine finish tip you can use you can do all kinds of things with it great for gutters great for downspouts front door side doors all that kind of stuff fine finish it you got to have one of those anytime you want that automobile like finish smooth wall I'm smooth textured walls level five you might get fingering or lap marks because these high production tips they leave kind of a sharp edge and really feathered edges in new construction when I was doing went back to my new construction days and I did a lot of new construction day in and day out when I would spray in walls it's all about speed and getting things done fast I would be using a 5-10 tip for doing all my trim fox is up here to work one by four trim so the trim is it's pretty wide so the baseboards are pretty wide door jambs window trims are pretty wide and you want that tip to span that distance so you can shoot it just one time you don't want to have to do multiple passes on your trim work and you're going to have a little bit more X overspray and extra paint but in new construction that doesn't matter because there's no flooring there's nothing in there it's just a bare house bare wood and you're just blowing and going so here's how I keep my tips organizes a tip saver down in mineral spirits or paint thinner at my tips or just kept you know inside there and you know once you start to get a handful of tips in there it's really hard to remember what's what and then when it was used laughs and you know how many gallons have been put through it so simplify the process 310 515 619 it's gonna get you a whole long so now I'm gonna set this thing up I got it set up and we're gonna show you I'm gonna start spraying right here with the pressure to low and then we're gonna show you as I adjust the pressure what happens to the spray pattern all right so I've done some testing right now I'm just gonna roll my paper now get a fresh sheet paper right here and this tip is typically wants to run in higher pressures it's a high production tip I have the pressure set at it's all the way down on below the HEA marks so it's really extremely low it's it around it looks like about 700 psi and I know somebody's gonna be curious about the lime green gun whip it makes this section of the hose a lot more flexible if you just hook the regular hose to the gun this banding which is typically on all regular hoses makes it less flexible makes it harder to move get in and out of tight spaces causes a lot more gun fatigue and the lime green hose whips are my own custom specked out hose whips that's got a lay light on it and says the idaho painter right on it a paint life product so if you want one of our custom hose whips go check out our store at my website the idaho painter calm or store dot the idaho painter calm where you can get our really cool shirts hats and a lot of the tools and accessories that I keep in my vehicles I'm gonna switch this thing over to a tighten HEA tip I got my bucket of tips right here if you've never seen one of these things this is a tip saver right here this bucket and these things are pretty amazing it organizes your tips keeps them down I got just about that much paint there that might tips sit in so they don't dry out that's now at about 1500 psi and I've got your think I've got a hundred feet of hose right here so it's probably dropping down to about a thousand psi at the gun which is typically what an 88 tip should be run out and so the benefits of that is less overspray let's kick back and let's fall out so here we go so I'm getting a fairly good feathered edge right here it's filling in pretty nicely but I still think that I want my edge to be a little bit more feathered and this is once again this is a 311 tip and so these tips are just a little bit harder to dial in you would typically use something like this - maybe sprays you know some trim or something if you wanted to control overspray so we're looking we've got some fingering right there and we're running yo at about let me see if at all so it was dropping down to the top of the green bump it up just a little bit more now right there it's looking pretty nice for a 311 tip here we go so now you can start to see that as nice and feathered for a 311 tip I've got a nice feathered edge right here it's all filled in and now I'm running that's gonna be at the pump it's 2,000 psi but it's dropping down to around to around 1500 to 1300 psi at the gun here's a 515 Titan HEA tip and we'll show you what this one looks like now we'll see if we can get this one adjusted too so that's that's a lot more paint coming out there so you can see this one typically the Titan HEA tips like to run around 800 to a thousand psi but I had to bump that up to a little bit more than what would be standard but I finally got the proper spray pattern I just sprayed this real quick with a 5 15 it sounded really loud it sounded like and it threw a lot of overspray out here on the edges so I know my pressure is probably up too high for an HEA tip I'm gonna drop that down so now I'm like it the HEA range which is the top of the green gauge so let me spray right here so now look at that that nice feathered edge right there the pressure sounded a little bit low I can stand to bump it up just to the top of the top of the range right there and we'll see how that looks I got a really good feathered edge no fingering at all do it one more time here now look at that see that nice feathered edge right there and I'm running at the pump I'm running at 1,100 psi so now compared to the high production tip 1100 compared to 2200 so I'm gonna create a lot less fallout a lot less dust in the air and yet I have these really really nice feathered edges so one where that is gonna really come into play is on a ceiling because when I showed you those edges the fingers that will actually build up paint a lot heavier that fingering on a ceiling is gonna show really bad you're gonna see it as striping all over the ceiling I'll show you one more time that one compared to right here nice crisp edge but we got some fingering some heavy spots on a ceiling that's gonna show really bad so this is real this pattern really nice for a ceiling and then also an offense if I'm you spraying offense on the outside I'm drop it all the way down to 1100 psi which is gonna be around 900 at the gun and I've got a nice spray pattern low overspray I don't ever water my paints down because all the paint's that I spray are actually designed to spray and not rush and roll specifically so there you have it some quick tips on how to get a proper spray pattern and today we're going to be talking about painting the trim we have baseboards in here and we don't have any window trim we got a couple doors that have door jambs so it's gonna be very simple but I'm gonna walk McKenna through the process of painting your own trim and we're gonna be spraying it so we got to start off by masking we're gonna use in some tools we've got nine-inch paper we've got 1 inch but we don't want any pain to bleed onto her nice hardwood floors so we're gonna be using some blue frog tape this is frog tape right here frog tape blue and it's the same as the green frog tape it swells on the edges and doesn't allow any paint to bleed underneath of it this is the blue form so this is the contractor pack it comes in a four pack we got the 1 inch tape and I'm gonna be showing her how to mass down here on the floors we'll be putting our inch and half tape down and that are putting our paper on top of that so we be using a hand master and then we're gonna be using dust or brushes we have some old brushes here because we don't want our floors to be dusty cuz the tape won't stick so we're gonna sweep the floors with our dusts or brushes along the edges of the baseboards run our tape then run our tape and paper and then prep the top of it by caulking anything that needs to be prepped or sanded caulking the tops of the baseboards or spackling any things so let's get moving on to the project begin it so the first process we want to start with McKenna is the dusting and I want to just walk around and I want to dust the tops of my baseboards and I want to dust the floor along where the masking is gonna go if you don't dust the floor the masking is not going to stick very well and then you'll also get paint bleed underneath your masking because you won't get a good good adhesion but the tops of the baseboards they didn't do a very good job caulking the tops of them so we're gonna dust the tops of the baseboards and recaulk some of those and then also dusting the floor so just I'm just gonna walk around and quickly dust the tops of this stuff and you can just work right along right there and you want to dust it really well and then you can take a shot back and shop back that up but everything's gonna get all dirty anyways because we're painting so we'll just work on this dusting process get it really clean and then we'll move on to the next step I'm gonna set up my master a hand master is set up just like this you put your roll of tape on the tape comes over the top right here so you can see how it comes over the top there's this little pin right here it has to go underneath the pin and then your paper is loaded on - so you got our nine-inch paper the paper is the same thing it goes over the top and it just presses right on so I'll take my tape stick it on top the paper just pull that through now it's ready to go and what we do is now we're gonna take we don't have to be nearly as precise we just want to put our paper right on top of our frog so we're just gonna be cruising right along just putting that paper down and then to keep it from flipping up from the sprayer cuz the sprayer the force of the sprayer will cause the paper to flip up we just take tape and we're gonna tack this down and some areas just like this so so now our paper is stuck to the floor and then we'll put drop cloths over the top of that alright McKenna so we've got everything masked off but there's one more step to the process did you learn anything masking at all alright so you learn how to mask that's good so you're doing a great job but now the baseboards themselves there's some prep that needs to be done because the original painters that in the new construction process didn't do a very good job there's a lot of dust and debris that was kicked up on the baseboards when they sprayed the walls most of the walls and baseboards are all the same color painted with the same paint when they sprayed the walls they didn't vacuum very good and it kicked up a lot of dirt on the baseboards so they're very rough so we're gonna sand the baseboards and then the tops of them were caught very well so we're gonna recaulk them so they have a nice good transition on the top of the baseboards we're gonna be doing some sanding we have a sander right here that has a little dust bag on it so we're not treating a whole lot of dust but well after we're done sanding we'll just shop back on the tops of the the masking that way we don't kick any dust up that we created by sanding but the corners weren't sanded very well so we're gonna sand them if you don't have access to a sander we can just use a sanding block we use these quite often this is a medium sanding sponge so it's a squishy sanding sponge so we're gonna begin doing the sanding first because if we'd caught first and the caulking is wet we might mess up our caulking you got a caulking gun right here so let me show you how to set up your caulking gun the caulking gun right here has a little blade in it right here if you can see when I squeeze the trigger that's what cuts the caulking tube open and so I'm gonna cut my tube open and I want it to be cut at a 45 degree angle and so I'm going to set my tube and then cut it at a 45 degree angle and I just want a little small hole I don't want to stick too much of the tube in there and you're gonna cut it at a 45 degree angle and you can see that's a small hole it's ready to go it does have a thing some like silicone caulking you have to perforate the inside of the tube first but this is latex caulking you don't have to I'm gonna set it in there I want my 45-degree angle facing down set it in and it's ready to go to caulk well we'll do the sanding process first and then we'll begin caulking I use when I talk I use a sponge and you can feel it's wet the sponge is wet so when you're wiping your excess caulking off it'll be on your finger and then you can just wipe your finger onto your sponge it keeps your finger wet and it gets keeps um gets the excess caulking off but with a wet finger it smoothes the caulking off a lot better but let's do the sanding we've got the sander right here and all you got to do just run around and feel if there's any you know rough stuff it's all rough right here and solve this start sanding that I don't need to have it up very high speed and just you don't want your sander to hit the tape because if it hits a tape it's gonna tear the tape up and we'll have to re-tape so just cruise right along the baseboards let's get those sanded I'll show you right here here's a corner let me show you McKenna so this corner right here you can see how it wasn't cut very well let me show you what it looks like see how it and it's not caught very well there's a big crack right there these are sharp corners we're gonna make that corner look a lot nicer now you can see that see how the corners and nice and round it and when it did that's going to look so much nicer just a little bit of work one minute and that corner is going to look like a professional did it all right McKenna so the final step to this process is we're gonna be caulking the tops of the baseboards and anything else that needs to be caulked I even noticed back here on this fireplace you can see this 90-degree corner right here how that does not look very good we can even cook something like that and we're just using a latex caulking it's the white caulking some of the baseboards the caulking shrunk and so it's down inside there it's not it doesn't have a nice smooth transition to the wall but you're just gonna take and lay out a nice little bead of caulking and I have a sponge there's a towel sponge and I have a rag and they're both wet you can use a rag or a tile sponge I kind of like the tile sponge but I'm a wet my finger a wet finger always smooth out the caulking a lot better but I'm gonna lightly put my pad on my finger on the bead in it you can see how it lays it out and that's gonna look a lot nicer right there in that wall so there's not a lot of stuff on the walls that needs to be caulked but mainly the baseboards so nice soft be Takaki you don't have to press very hard just very very lightly and I can keep smoothing it out I get it where I want but the tops of the baseboards down here let's look at the tops let me show you I always like to keep my caulking gun clean on the end but if I take the 45-degree angle and I don't want the 45 facing up because it's gonna squirt the caulking up like that I want it facing down up against my where I want the caulking to lay out so I'm just gonna squeeze your trigger just lay out a nice little bead like this you don't want too much you're gonna have to wipe it all off come right up against there and then I'm gonna take my sponge wet my finger lightly press down I can just feel the caulking and you can see that nice bead of caulking that's leavin on there that's gonna look a lot nicer now once you're trim and baseboards are painted so I'm working this there's a spot right here I didn't get enough coffee and you can see I didn't fill it in so I'll put a little bit more down there and I'll just work it with my wet finger so it looks nice and smooth just like that hey if you got any questions or comments about these tips and tricks' worth sharing we're only dis apart of the way through the video but leave your…