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Install New Recirculation Pump with ProPress Fittings

5:00
9:40
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At 5:00 in

Hot Water Takes Forever? Replace Your Recirculation Pump in Minutes

What happens here

Insert the pre-assembled new recirculation pump (with threaded adapters) into the gap created by removing the old pump. Use a Sharpie marker to create an insertion depth mark on the copper pipe for each ProPress fitting, ensuring the fitting is fully seated before pressing. Select the correct size copper jaws for the Ridgid RP 115 ProPress tool (3/4" and 1/2" are demonstrated). Position the jaws over the fitting and pipe, ensuring the mark on the pipe is not visible, then activate the tool to create a permanent, watertight seal. Repeat this for all connections. After installation, check the clearance of any existing valve handles and bend them using Knipex Pliers Wrench if they interfere with the new pump or other components. The presenter mentions using Type L copper for the new section due to its slightly thicker walls for durability.

Goal: Securely install the new recirculation pump using ProPress

Tools and materials

  • Copper Pipe — New sections of piping to connect the pump
  • Knipex Pliers Wrench Knipex — Bending the valve handle for clearance
  • Measuring Tape — Measuring pipe sections
  • ProPress Jaws — Specific jaws for pressing copper fittings of different sizes
  • Ridgid RP 115 ProPress Tool Ridgid — To create secure, watertight connections with ProPress fittings
  • Sharpie Marker Sharpie — Marking insertion depth on copper pipes
  • Viega ProPress Fittings — To connect the pump to the copper pipes

What they say

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not want to damage that O-ring inside. So always chamfer your pipe. We only have one 3/4 piece to actually ProPress in place. That's going to be this one right here. We put that mark right there to know that we're fully inserted. The RP 115 today we're going to be using the copper ProPress, but it actually has PEX press jaws for it as well. You just kind of do that. It ejects it. Slap that in place. Push that down. Stays in. This is a light little ProPress tool. You can get up in there. You can see where my line is. Everything looks good. ProPress good. Switch real quick. So, the 1/2 in. That's what we'll be using the rest of the time. I like to check the inside. Make sure you get all the grit. All right. Everything needs to be out of there. Want to do the outside. The chamfer, a little bit of Scotch-Brite, and then the direction of flow is actually coming back in this way right here. Yeah, it looks good. 7 and 1/2. I know you can use type M copper for residential, the way these guys did here, but I um I'm a big fan of using type L for anything. Just a little bit thicker of a copper. Show you something about this cutter that I absolutely love. Yes, it's ratcheting, but if you needed a close-quarters cutter, it's awesome. Pop this off, you can use it close quarter. Pop this right up here in place, and then you get this bad boy cleaned up. In. Oh, yeah. That looks good. Pull out the freaking Knipex Cobras. These are always locking to anything even in a tight space. Okay, there we go. Now it's on there good. That's better than having to solder in here. All right. >> [snorts] >> Bam. Much easier putting that in than how it could have went because they didn't put this valve in the direction of flow. Now I'm screwed when I open it. So I'm just going to bend that down a little bit. I'm going to take this right here. And now it's not going to rub against that. All right.

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