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Addressing Air Leaks

4:55
22:21
171K views

At 4:55 in

Former Million Dollar RV TRUE Cost of Ownership: My 1996 Newell Coach Experience! (10K Miles So Far)

What happens here

The presenter explains how he addressed significant air leaks in the motorhome's air system. He replaced the air compressor governor and discovered that many plastic push-lock air fittings were leaking, causing the rear suspension to sag. He replaced these with brass push-lock fittings, noting they are a '10 out of 10' replacement for durability. He emphasizes the importance of using DOT (Department of Transportation) certified airline fittings, which are designed differently and are more suitable for heavy-duty applications compared to standard compression fittings.

Goal: Fix air leaks in the air suspension system.

Tools and materials

  • Air Compressor Governor — Regulating air pressure in the braking and suspension systems
  • Brass Push-Lock Air Fittings — Replacing leaky plastic fittings for better durability
  • DOT Airline Fittings — Ensuring proper and safe connections in the air system
  • Plastic Push-Lock Air Fittings — Connecting air lines (replaced due to leaks)

What they say

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just came loose over time from the vibration. He broke down. It was a 12- volt signal wire to the ECU. So, essentially, my ignition power trigger for the computer broke off, and the ECU simply turned off because it "didn't see" that the ignition was on. And it's right here. This is the connector of the DEC 3 unit. The problem was precisely the one on the bottom. It was a contact in that connector. And while I'm here, on the subject of maintenance: I replaced the air compressor regulator because it was having numerous air leaks and I thought it would be a good idea. As for the air leaks, I'm still working on it, still need to fix some things , but I had a big leak when I first got this car. So big that I pulled into the truck stop to fill up. I turned off the engine, and when I got out, the trailer chains were already on the ground. That is, the rear of the car quickly sank. And I also have a video of how I fixed it. But it turned out that they were just some kind of quick-release air fittings. The plastic rings let air through. Take this into account. Compression fittings are a 10 out of 10 thing to use for replacement, for this very reason. And if you have to use quick-releases, get brass ones, not ones with a plastic ring. I figured it out. This gave a great result. The cost was about $40, maybe for various brass parts and trips to

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