DIY Under Desk Printer Stand

hey guys Alex mukan here from Mr building this week we're building a mobile printer cabinet so stick around I'll show you how I did it let's go all right right out of the gates I decided to go with a 4x8 sheet of Oak plywood from my local Home Depot usually about 50 bucks a sheet I only need half of it so I'm using a track saww to break it down and make it easier to bring on my table saw now I'm part of the Home Depot prospective program so we get to check out some of the latest tools here I'm using the DeWalt W 745 taable stop with stand 299 at the Home Depot as well as the 20 volt Max Bluetooth speaker from DeWalt I'll put a link down in the description below if you guys want to check out go for it now for the dimensions it's really pointless for me to mention the exact dimensions because I made everything tailored to my router my printer and the setup that I have so but the overall setup is about 19 in tall of the cabinet plus the 3-in casters 18 and 1/2 in wide and 18 in deep now as far as the unique design of this cabinet I wanted to sit underneath my floating desk in the office be able to print it at any time I want but when it comes to using the top scanning part the cabinet would need to be pulled out so I wanted to create a custom hand grip for it to be able to push and pull the cabinet out of place and into place once I got all my notches figured out I came over to my band on to create the cut now I use my bansel mostly because I wanted to create a straight of a cut that I could that perhaps a jigsaw might not mostly because I was going to edgeband this area for the inner part of the grip I created a pilot hole with a/2 in drill bit fed my jigsaw blade in and cut the inner parts of the hand grip out once I was done cutting it out I noticed there's a few saw marks left over so I clean them up using a handheld rasp and then went over all the edges with the 38 round over bit with my router for the general assembly of this project I'm using wood glue along with 1 and 1/4 in brad nails to secure everything in place make sure you have a damp rag along with you to wipe off any of the wood glue squeezing out to kind of save yourself time later on this is actually the really fun part of the project cuz you kind of look at all the technology that you have in your office like your internet router the USB mic that I have or perhaps even the Philips hu smart light Hub system that's supposed to be concealed and now you can create a place for everything like I mentioned earlier we're going to have 3-in casters on this cabinet now to conceal those casters as much as we can I created this 2 and 1/2 in wide skirt that will go completely around the base of the cabinet and the casters will sit and be secured just enough for the swivel to completely turn around and not touching none of the edges on the skirt once they were secured the second feature that I added was an encapsulating cubby for the internet router and the USB mic to make sure it doesn't fall side to side and the last feature that I really like that I added as well that's super functional is a 3-in lip that sets at the very top of the cabinet towards the back essentially this is the part that the printer butts up against to so when you you pull it out from underneath your desk it doesn't fall back and when you shove it back in it doesn't fall off the side as well all right now that everything's assembled let's dress everything up with some ironon red oak veneer Edge banding I'm using my iron to get it nice and hot to glue it on use a scrap piece of wood to press it in grab a blade to trim off any excess and then here is the secret to making sure it's nice flush and perfect grab a 120 grit sandpaper with a little scrap wood behind to work as a little block sander and then sand everything smooth and flush this will make sure that everything is straight and the board will actually look like a one big solid piece of wood all right now it's time to conceal all the exposed Brad nail holes I'm using a product from DB that has color changing indicator on it and what that means is once you put it on it goes on pink and once it's ready to dry and it's cured it turns into this like tannish white color this is super helpful if you want to speed up the process my only issue with this build that the bottom paper tray would not have anything to prevent the paper from falling off to the side when the cabin was moved so I came up with a last minute design where I took Quin dowels and I cut them to exact perfect tight sizes and would glue them in in a line now they didn't need to hold any kind of weight basically just paper weight but creating a small fence worked as a perfect guard to keep the paper in place for the finish I sanded the project down to 220 grit sandpaper once everything was smooth and I ensured that all the dust was out of the little cracks and I got all the glue that squeezed out I used a tongue oil finish on a rag just went and wiped it all over the entire project this is a really easy application if I was to reapply this oil one more time I think the one thing I do different is I'd pick up a foam brush just cuz it made it a lot more easier to get into the little nooks and crannies as well as having a far more saturated piece of material to apply it with now it's time to address the problem with the technology and the cables every piece of technology that have a cubby or a Shelf has a power cable now to make sure that we create a hole and prevent any kind of tear outs or blowouts in the plywood we have to create a backer to it so all a backer is is really grabbing any kind of scrap piece of wood clamping it down on the opposing side that you will be coming in so if the drill bits coming from the back we'll need a backer on the front and vice versa after all the power holes were drilled I installed a six Port power strip on the back of this cabinet using screws and the included built-in key holes that it slides onto kind of like a wall mount then I brought everything to my office installed all the technology ran all the cables plugged it into the power strip on the back and all the loose dangling excess cables I just secured them with a zip tie and voila well I hope you guys enjoyed the video I had a lot of fun making this if I was to redo this project one more time I'd probably go with something that flakes a little bit less maybe like a maple plywood instead of Oak other than that I had a lot of fun making it if you're brand new to the channel we encourage you guys to subscribe we make videos like this every single week like comment and share this video with your friends in the meantime here's a couple other videos for you guys to check out tuning out this week we'll see you guys next week see you bye