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Building Treasure Chest Toy Storage

8:26
21.9K views

Video by Mr. Build It

Mr. Build It

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This project guides you through building a decorative wooden treasure chest with a distinctive burnt wood finish and metal accents. It covers selecting and preparing lumber, assembling the box and its unique curved lid, applying a wood-burning texture (Shou Sugi Ban style), and adding decorative metal straps and hardware, culminating in a finished piece with a rustic, antique aesthetic.

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all right so to get started on this project i went down to my local hardware store and i picked up about roughly between 13 and 16 1x5 but they're really like one by four and a half uh the common wood boards they're the cheapest stuff you could find at home depot or lowe's or any other kind of stores now take your time pick out the most straightest one because we're not really going to put them on a joiner in a planer so we really need them to work in our favor to be straight so now the overall dimensions of the treasure chest with the lid closed would range about 27 inches tall 20 inches wide and 30 inches long so to kind of speed up the process i decided to mass cut all the pieces that we needed for this job so the sides were all 28 and a half inches to accommodate the extra inch and a half on both sides and then the end caps were about 20 inches long as well so now that we got all of our cuts ready we're going to create panel glue ups using pocket holes and wood glue so on the long pieces of 28 and a halfers we're going to use four pocket hole screws and on the short ones the 20 inch long ones we're gonna use only three we're gonna stack them about four high so four of the four and a half inch wide boards are going to get glued up together and stacked together now one thing to know is some of these white wood kind of boards some of them might have a round over edge depending if you get the premium ones or not and if they do have the rounded over edge be sure to trim it off on your table saw now when joining these boards together we're now going to use a joiner and planer so be sure to take your time to pick out the straightest boards that are not cupped or bowed out that way these seams are somewhat decent also keep in mind that when setting these pocket hole screws it's helpful to use some kind of clamp to bring the two joints together that way the wood doesn't move as you're trying to set the screw whenever doing any of these kind of panel glue ups i like to let the boards and panel sit for at least 12 hours just to make sure that all the wood glue takes and i'm not going to screw anything up also i don't want any of the wood glue to get on my table saw or anything like that when i trim the pieces off which leads me into the next step trimming off the pieces once the next day you come in and the boards are dry use your table saw sled or any kind of straight edge you have to clean up the edges to make sure they're straight all around we all know that all the really cool treasure chests have this really unique tapered look towards the end of the compartment storage so to accomplish this we take the ends of the panels that we glued up and we established where we want the taper to start and where to end so the number i picked with is number 13 that's 13 degrees that we're going to taper this into once we establish the lines i then took my jigsaw to make the cut now if i was to redo this step again i'd probably put the two panels together that would kill two birds with one stone and then secured it together and use perhaps a circular saw instead of a jigsaw to make sure that both cuts were nice and straight so now that our taper is done on our end caps we need to create a matching miter cut to make sure the sides fit the flow of that taper so to do so we're going to put a 13 degree miter cut using our table saw on the top of the side panel boards and on the bottom they're both going to be facing the same way so keep in mind which direction you're flipping the board over when creating the second cut and yes to answer your question you will have to trim a little bit on the end caps in terms of your height after you create the miter cut using your table saw to make sure it's all the same height it's usually no more than maybe three quarter inch to an inch which is not a deal breaker all right so for the actual assembly we're gonna use brad nails and wood glue to put it all together keep in mind these boards are not perfectly straight because we never actually milled them so there's going to be some air a little bit bending a little bit cupping so to make your life a little bit easier to make sure that all the glue takes use clamps after you get everything secured to really press everything together so let's talk about the lid for a little bit there's a lot of different variations of lids that you can do the straight ones the easy ones the more rectangular ones they look like a coffin and i didn't want to make a coffin so i wanted to give it that cool radius look kind of like that jake and the neverland pirates kind of feel so that we're gonna have a radius coming off the sides and then a kind of steeple radius on top to make sure it's all symmetrical i found the center of the board and then used a couple of things around the house like tape or metal pieces to kind of create that radius that i wanted and trace it out once it was done i then stack the two pieces together and then use the jigsaw to cut it out all right the end caps are done we're going to stay on the subject of lid and we're going to discuss how we create this radius curvature throughout the entire lid the 20 and a half inch long pieces we need to rip them into two inch wide strips to allow for the bend now that 90 degree angles they're still not enough for us to continue that curvature smoothly so we need to cut them off a little bit what i found that works best if we create a mitered rip cut using our table saw with the degree that's between 5 and 13 degrees you can pick a number but that will allow for you to actually give you enough room to continue the flow of the radius pattern throughout the entire lid now that we got all of our two inch pieces all mitered and ready to go we're gonna install them using brad nails and wood glue securing them from the end caps through the end grain pieces once they're gonna be installed we're gonna make sure that every piece gets butted up as closely to the last piece as possible to conceal as much of that opening as you can some of it might not be exactly perfect but we can always conceal it with wood glue or epoxy end of the day all these pieces are going to be sanded flush and so a lot of what you think looks imperfect is going to be concealed as well and the stuff that's can't keep in mind this is a pirate treasure chest it doesn't have to be perfect perfect it just has to have a little bit of that character as well speaking of sanding after the project dries the next day come back using 80 grit sandpaper in your sander and start blending all the angles together this is a really fun part because the projects really start to become really pretty at this point there's going to be a lot of dust flying around so make sure you're using your respirator and all the necessary precautions just to keep yourself safe alright so i am ready now to give it that burned look i have the map pro gasses it burns really hot a lot hotter than propane the two torches that i have is the ts-4000 which allows me to turn it on lock it but i can't adjust the flame and i have the ts 8000 which i think i'm going to go on this project with an advantage with this one is you can turn it on lock it but then you can also control the flame so you can go at your slow pace or a fast pace whichever feels more comfortable so let's get started now no treasure chest is complete without all the metal details so to accomplish this i went down to my local hardware store and i picked out this one and a half inch wide flattened aluminum for an eight foot long piece like this i paid about 13 to 14 bucks it's nice because aluminum bends very easily to accommodate all the curves and you can actually cut it safely using your miter saw without damaging your blade too much once you made all your cuts when it comes to installing it i pre-drilled all the holes on it that were spaced about two inches wide just for symmetry and aesthetics and then i picked up three quarter inch wood screws and so i just started at the bottom and i started wrapping it around securing each screw until the entire thing was fixed and the cool thing about it is when it comes to trimming off the last piece you can just use your sawzall with a metal blade on it or something like that and i'll cut off just fine and for the rest of the hardware kind of like the hinges and the lock mechanism i went to the same hardware store and i went to the department that had all the fence kind of hardware that you would buy and i just installed it using the same three-quarter inch screws and basically just picked out the stuff that would match the aluminum finish that i had on the trim pieces and finally for the finish now keep in mind i never sanded past 80 grit mostly because we're gonna burn it anyway so i didn't want to spend the time and perfecting that finish when it comes to securing the charred stuff that we burned i just use my hvop sprayer and a water-based polyurethane it's a satin sheen so it applied very easily it secured it really well and it looks great well that is it for me this week thank you so much for watching this video if you like what you saw make sure you like comment and share it with your friends and if you're brand of the channel welcome we put a video out every single week so subscribe and hit that notification bell that way you know when these videos come out big thank you to burns maddox for sponsoring this project make sure you guys follow me on social media on instagram facebook and all the platforms i'll put a link down in the description below tune up this week we'll see you guys next week see ya bye

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