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Fabricate and Install Custom 'Boom Tube' Exhaust

20:10
38:23
129.1K views

At 20:10 in

72 LSA Monte Carlo Boom Tube NASCAR Exhaust FIRST DRIVE! (Fab Process & Finishing Touches)

What happens here

Fabricate custom 'boom tube' exhaust sections from flat metal stock. Use a band saw to cut the metal to shape and a belt sander to smooth the edges. After tack welding the X-pipe sections, ensure they lie completely flat to maintain precise angles. Mount the exhaust sections onto the car. Custom brackets are fabricated and welded to secure the exhaust to the car's underbody. The completed exhaust is painted black using barbecue grill paint for durability and heat resistance, as recommended by 'Dr. Gas'.

Goal: Install a custom 'boom tube' exhaust system for enhanced sound and performance.

Tools and materials

  • Band Saw JET — Cutting metal to shape
  • Barbecue Grill Paint Rust-Oleum — Painting the exhaust for heat resistance and finish
  • Belt Sander — Smoothing cut metal edges
  • Metal Stock — Fabricating 'boom tube' exhaust sections
  • Welder Lincoln Welders — Tack welding and final welding of exhaust components and brackets

What they say

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would catch on the wing. So we moved the body a little bit, and now it's almost perfect. Maybe a millimeter more on this side than on that, but you know, it's ... What are you comparing it to? From the tire side to the fender? The wing has a deviation. It's just an old car. I launched the old Fronius Magic Wave 230, it's just great. My welding skills are not worth this machine. Well, actually, the amount of welding I do doesn't reveal its potential, but we'll be doing a lot of welding for the Uncle George project soon. Um, I aligned the other pipe. I grabbed it the other day, as I showed in the video, because it was a little crooked because I put it on the floor, and it's not completely straight because of the X- shaped pipe design. I thought, "Okay, I'll fix that a little bit." So, I placed a piece of wood under the boom tubes to press them completely flush so that the difference in height where the X- pipe rests on the floor wouldn't affect their angle. So I did it. I welded them back together . I'll throw them under the car, put all the other pipes in, and tighten everything up a bit . I'll make sure everything is okay. I'll make a mount for this. I'll grab the pipes, determine where I'll be cooking, where I want to put the clamps, etc. Because I want to connect the intermediate pipes to the X-pipe with clamps. So I could get another X-pipe like this from Dr. Gas and repeat this configuration, but without the "boom tubes", just with pipes to experiment with the sound. I want to compare one by one, without changing anything, how different an X-pipe system sounds with the correct 80 degree angle, correct fly fishing, and regular pipes versus a design with "boom tubes ". It's interesting because the iRock car doesn't have "boom tubes," but they sound simply incredible. NASCAR Cup cars from Talladega and Daytona of that era had "boom tubes" and they sound really cool. I don't know. It would be interesting to see. At first I thought I could just remove the " boom tubes" and slide the pipes in, but the design is such that they are too close to the X-pipe and have to be welded. I don't see an easy way to secure them with clamps. So I would just have to get another X-pipe with straight sections. I'll probably pin them there. Anyway , let's get this all up. Let's get started . The exhaust is already here. I roughly outlined what it should look like on the outside. Ahem. I'm pretty sure I 'll use clamps, but I marked it with a marker anyway. To know the landing…

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