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Reassemble the faucet in the reverse order of disassembly. Place the new ball valve into the socket, ensuring the slot on the ball aligns with the pin in the faucet body. Place the new rubber cam seal and the plastic cam over the ball, aligning the tab on the cam with the notch on the faucet body. Screw the dome cap back on and tighten it by hand, giving it a final quarter-turn with the pliers (using a rag) if necessary, but do not overtighten. Finally, place the handle back on and tighten the set screw with the Allen wrench.
This guide provides step-by-step instructions for repairing a common single-handle ball-valve kitchen faucet that is leaking. The process involves shutting off the water supply, disassembling the faucet handle and body, replacing worn internal components like the ball, seats, springs, and O-rings using a specific repair kit, and then reassembling the faucet and testing for leaks.
This repair is rated beginner-friendly, but requires patience and attention to detail. For a first-timer, expect to spend 1-2 hours from start to finish, including gathering tools and testing. The cost is usually just the repair kit, which is significantly cheaper than replacing the entire faucet.
Ball-valve faucets typically have a single handle that rotates and tilts to control both temperature and flow. To confirm, carefully remove the handle; if you see a cap underneath that unscrews to reveal a metal or plastic ball, seats, and springs, it's a ball-valve type. Always check your faucet's brand and model (often Delta) to find the exact replacement kit, like the 'DANCO Repair Kit for Delta W/212SS Ball 86971'.
If you can't locate the hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink, you'll need to turn off the main water supply to your entire house, usually located in the basement or near the water meter. If the under-sink valves are stuck, try gently using an adjustable wrench to turn them, but avoid excessive force to prevent damage. If they still won't budge, it's safer to use the main shut-off or call a professional.
First, double-check that all components, especially the new springs, seats, and the ball, are installed correctly and oriented properly according to the repair kit instructions. Ensure the new O-rings are lubricated with plumber's grease and seated perfectly without any twists or pinches. Sometimes, either over-tightening or under-tightening the cap can cause leaks, so adjust carefully.
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