Remove Old Seals, Springs, and O-Rings — Replace Ball, Seats, and Springs
Part of project
How to Fix a Leaky Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet (Ball-Valve Type) · Step 4 of 7
In this video
Using a small screwdriver or a dental pick, reach into the two holes inside the faucet body and carefully pull out the old rubber seats and the springs underneath them. Next, lift the entire spout assembly straight up and off the faucet body. Using needle-nose pliers, grab and remove the two old O-rings from the base of the faucet body. Wipe the area clean with a rag to remove any debris.
Goal: Remove old seals
Used in this video
- Screwdriver (brand: Generic, Screwdriver_Type: Flathead) — Prying out the old springs and seats.
- Needle-nose Pliers (brand: Generic, Pliers Type: Needle-nose) — Removing the old O-rings from the faucet body.
- Rag — Cleaning the faucet body after removing old parts.
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FAQs
How difficult is this repair for a beginner, and how long should it take?
This repair is rated beginner-friendly, but requires patience and attention to detail. For a first-timer, expect to spend 1-2 hours from start to finish, including gathering tools and testing. The cost is usually just the repair kit, which is significantly cheaper than replacing the entire faucet.
How can I tell if my leaky faucet is a 'ball-valve type' and ensure I buy the correct repair kit?
Ball-valve faucets typically have a single handle that rotates and tilts to control both temperature and flow. To confirm, carefully remove the handle; if you see a cap underneath that unscrews to reveal a metal or plastic ball, seats, and springs, it's a ball-valve type. Always check your faucet's brand and model (often Delta) to find the exact replacement kit, like the 'DANCO Repair Kit for Delta W/212SS Ball 86971'.
What should I do if I can't find the water shut-off valves under my sink, or if they're stuck?
If you can't locate the hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink, you'll need to turn off the main water supply to your entire house, usually located in the basement or near the water meter. If the under-sink valves are stuck, try gently using an adjustable wrench to turn them, but avoid excessive force to prevent damage. If they still won't budge, it's safer to use the main shut-off or call a professional.
I replaced the parts, but my faucet is still leaking. What could be the issue?
First, double-check that all components, especially the new springs, seats, and the ball, are installed correctly and oriented properly according to the repair kit instructions. Ensure the new O-rings are lubricated with plumber's grease and seated perfectly without any twists or pinches. Sometimes, either over-tightening or under-tightening the cap can cause leaks, so adjust carefully.
Remove Old Seals, Springs, and O-Rings — Replace Ball, Seats, and Springs
Part of project
How to Fix a Leaky Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet (Ball-Valve Type) · Step 4 of 7
In this video
Using a small screwdriver or a dental pick, reach into the two holes inside the faucet body and carefully pull out the old rubber seats and the springs underneath them. Next, lift the entire spout assembly straight up and off the faucet body. Using needle-nose pliers, grab and remove the two old O-rings from the base of the faucet body. Wipe the area clean with a rag to remove any debris.
Goal: Remove old seals
Used in this video
- Screwdriver (brand: Generic, Screwdriver_Type: Flathead) — Prying out the old springs and seats.
- Needle-nose Pliers (brand: Generic, Pliers Type: Needle-nose) — Removing the old O-rings from the faucet body.
- Rag — Cleaning the faucet body after removing old parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How difficult is this repair for a beginner, and how long should it take?
This repair is rated beginner-friendly, but requires patience and attention to detail. For a first-timer, expect to spend 1-2 hours from start to finish, including gathering tools and testing. The cost is usually just the repair kit, which is significantly cheaper than replacing the entire faucet.
How can I tell if my leaky faucet is a 'ball-valve type' and ensure I buy the correct repair kit?
Ball-valve faucets typically have a single handle that rotates and tilts to control both temperature and flow. To confirm, carefully remove the handle; if you see a cap underneath that unscrews to reveal a metal or plastic ball, seats, and springs, it's a ball-valve type. Always check your faucet's brand and model (often Delta) to find the exact replacement kit, like the 'DANCO Repair Kit for Delta W/212SS Ball 86971'.
What should I do if I can't find the water shut-off valves under my sink, or if they're stuck?
If you can't locate the hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink, you'll need to turn off the main water supply to your entire house, usually located in the basement or near the water meter. If the under-sink valves are stuck, try gently using an adjustable wrench to turn them, but avoid excessive force to prevent damage. If they still won't budge, it's safer to use the main shut-off or call a professional.
I replaced the parts, but my faucet is still leaking. What could be the issue?
First, double-check that all components, especially the new springs, seats, and the ball, are installed correctly and oriented properly according to the repair kit instructions. Ensure the new O-rings are lubricated with plumber's grease and seated perfectly without any twists or pinches. Sometimes, either over-tightening or under-tightening the cap can cause leaks, so adjust carefully.