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Glue and Install the New Assembly — Install the AAV

Beginner

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How to Install an Air Admittance Valve (AAV) · Step 6 of 7

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Once you have confirmed the fit, begin gluing the assembly. Apply PVC primer to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting for each connection. Immediately follow with an even coat of PVC cement. Push the pipe and fitting together with a slight twisting motion and hold for 30 seconds to ensure a strong bond. Connect the entire new assembly to the existing irrigation lines. Tighten the union by hand, plus a quarter-turn with a wrench if needed, but do not over-tighten.

Goal: Permanently install the new valve system

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FAQs

What are the most important safety precautions I should take when installing an AAV?

Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, including safety glasses and gloves, especially when cutting PVC pipe and handling chemical solvents. Ensure the work area is well-ventilated when using PVC primer and cement to avoid inhaling fumes. Have a bucket ready to catch any residual water from the drain line.

Do I really need all those specific pipe cutters and deburring tools for this project, or can I use a simpler tool?

While a hacksaw can cut PVC, specialized pipe cutters (like the ratcheting PVC cutter or plastic tubing cutter) provide much cleaner, straighter cuts with less effort, which is crucial for a tight seal. A deburring tool is also highly recommended to smooth edges, preventing snags and ensuring the best bond with primer and cement.

How long does a typical AAV installation take for a beginner, and what's the estimated cost of materials?

For a beginner, this project typically takes 1 to 3 hours, depending on preparation and experience with plumbing. The material costs, including the AAV, PVC fittings, primer, and cement, usually range from $30-$60, assuming you already have basic tools like a tape measure and bucket.

Where is the ideal location to install an AAV on a sink drain line for optimal performance and code compliance?

The AAV must be installed vertically, at least 4 inches above the horizontal drainpipe it serves, and critically, above the fixture's flood level rim. This prevents water from entering the valve and ensures proper air intake, while complying with most plumbing codes.

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Now this is a threaded valve so if this leaks again all I got to do is shut off the water and I put a hub in here so that way you can loosen this, you can loosen this, take this off and then you can take this valve off in case this leaks. Now there's no leaks, everything's properly sealed, everything's good and then because from here to here is such a short distance and this is so long I had to make this longer so I put a nubble here, help you to pipe, to elbows here and then it goes all the way this way into this. So now if it ever decides to leak again this valve all I got to do is loosen this, replace the valve and then put it all back together, no more cutting, no more gluing, it's basically

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