Remove Old Valve — Remove the Old Angle Stop
Part of project
How to Replace a Leaky Angle Stop (Shutoff Valve) Under Your Sink · Step 3 of 8
In this video
Using two adjustable wrenches, remove the old, leaking valve. Place one wrench on the stationary nut of the pipe fitting to hold it steady. Use the second wrench to grip the body of the old valve and turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew it. Have a towel ready for any residual water.
Goal: Plumbing Fixture Repair
- For easier access, pop off the plastic trim plate from the washing machine outlet box. It is usually held in by clips and can be gently pried off.
Used in this video
- Adjustable Wrench (Tool Type: Wrench) — To hold the stationary pipe fitting and to unscrew the old valve.
- Adjustable Wrench (Tool Type: Wrench) — To hold the stationary pipe fitting and to unscrew the old valve.
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FAQs
What's the most critical safety step before beginning the angle stop replacement?
The most critical step is always to shut off the main water supply to your house completely, not just the valve under the sink. This prevents potential flooding and ensures no water pressure is present while you're working on the pipe.
How long should a beginner expect this project to take, and what is the approximate cost?
For a beginner, this project typically takes 1 to 2 hours, allowing time for preparation and careful leak checks. The material cost is relatively low, mainly for the new angle stop and a new supply line, usually ranging from $20 to $40.
What tools do I need beyond basic wrenches for this project?
While adjustable wrenches and pliers are essential, 150-grit sandpaper is crucial for cleaning the copper pipe to ensure a good seal. You'll also need a bucket for draining water and plenty of absorbent towels (like WYPALL L40 or Scott Rags) to manage spills.
What's a common mistake beginners make that can lead to leaks after installation?
A common mistake is not thoroughly cleaning and preparing the copper pipe surface before installing the new compression fitting. Ensure the pipe is smooth, free of burrs, and clear of old compression ring residue using 150-grit sandpaper for a watertight seal.
Remove Old Valve — Remove the Old Angle Stop
Part of project
How to Replace a Leaky Angle Stop (Shutoff Valve) Under Your Sink · Step 3 of 8
In this video
Using two adjustable wrenches, remove the old, leaking valve. Place one wrench on the stationary nut of the pipe fitting to hold it steady. Use the second wrench to grip the body of the old valve and turn it counter-clockwise to unscrew it. Have a towel ready for any residual water.
Goal: Plumbing Fixture Repair
- For easier access, pop off the plastic trim plate from the washing machine outlet box. It is usually held in by clips and can be gently pried off.
Used in this video
- Adjustable Wrench (Tool Type: Wrench) — To hold the stationary pipe fitting and to unscrew the old valve.
- Adjustable Wrench (Tool Type: Wrench) — To hold the stationary pipe fitting and to unscrew the old valve.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the most critical safety step before beginning the angle stop replacement?
The most critical step is always to shut off the main water supply to your house completely, not just the valve under the sink. This prevents potential flooding and ensures no water pressure is present while you're working on the pipe.
How long should a beginner expect this project to take, and what is the approximate cost?
For a beginner, this project typically takes 1 to 2 hours, allowing time for preparation and careful leak checks. The material cost is relatively low, mainly for the new angle stop and a new supply line, usually ranging from $20 to $40.
What tools do I need beyond basic wrenches for this project?
While adjustable wrenches and pliers are essential, 150-grit sandpaper is crucial for cleaning the copper pipe to ensure a good seal. You'll also need a bucket for draining water and plenty of absorbent towels (like WYPALL L40 or Scott Rags) to manage spills.
What's a common mistake beginners make that can lead to leaks after installation?
A common mistake is not thoroughly cleaning and preparing the copper pipe surface before installing the new compression fitting. Ensure the pipe is smooth, free of burrs, and clear of old compression ring residue using 150-grit sandpaper for a watertight seal.