IT RUNS! Building My 2006 NASCAR Monte Carlo: Dodge R5P7 First Startup! (Oil Lines and Wiring)

in part one of this build series you saw me install and mount the Dodge R5 p7 in this thing and yes you're probably wondering it is a Chevy body but I have a Dodge engine why well I got a really good deal on this Dodge engine and it does the same thing when the hood is closed this is a 2006 Chevy Monte Carlo that was formerly raced in the NASCAR Bush series I am racing it again after sitting for 15 years in this video you will see me finish getting the engine ready to run and firing It Up For the First Time been working here for a few days doing a lot of different things I was just figuring out where all the lines needed to go and marking everything some came with the car I was able to kind of use them for reference to plot it out now I have everything marked and yeah my Rin doesn't work correctly this is decipherable with enough time but I need to make another list to make it more readable than this one when I go to the counter all these lines and fittings from Red Horse performance I use them on the Escalade and Uncle Rob basically been using red horse stuff since 2018 I wanted to do the biggest one first cuz I thought it would be fun until I realized that we don't actually have a wrench big enough to do this so we're going to have to go to the store but I have the upper rat hose mocked up anyway just I'm starting from the top and going down so that way I know how things will look below it and I know how I want to look on the top because I want it to look nice and not be halfhazard plumbed like whoever did did this that's just that's just stupid that's going to have to go but we'll worry about that later and I'm probably going to make new uh power steering lines because I want them to be able to run out parallel and then go down so this one needs to be a little shorter and have a straight fitting on the end and this one also needs to be a little bit shorter so that it can come straight out of the pump and roll in without curving this way I know some people might think that's really stupid stupid but those are the kind of things I notice when I look under the hood of a car whether somebody just picked lines out of a bin and they fit they made the connection or they put thought into how it was plumbed and that is the Difference Maker between an engine bay that looks nice and an engine bay that looks thrown together I don't I don't want to have something that looks thrown together if I can control that and if I'm making my own lines I can control that to a certain extent this is just how I like to do it I like to make one side and then just kind of like you know hold it up there and I can figure out what angle I want this line to be at which I don't want to push it all the way back here cuz if I end up having to do some type of throttle bracket through here uh then it would be in the way so I kind of got to factor those things in also but I also don't like whenever you have a straight fitting here and the line kind of runs flat and then I to bend at the last second to get into it I like having it you know look like it's supposed to be that way I've been Trucking away on these here found a couple places down there where I might have some clearance issues and I'll probably have to get some specialty lines made to make it work to CU everything's got to fit under the header and all that uh but other than that it's going pretty good using this nice fire sleeve where needed it's got fiberglass on the inside silicone on the outside kind of makes gives a little bit extra layer of protection too and on the end I don't know if you like me but I hate the fiberglass itches so I'm doing these with heat shrink on the end to keep the fiberglass you know from coming out and looking ratty a couple of the lines that were on the car were already like this and I thought dang that's really nice cuz I got to just I hate fiberglass itches but it's just the just the worst I'm I traumatized from that because of the the down pipes on the Escalade they ran like up through here real tight I had to wrap them with that stuff and every time I change a transmission I had to take them out and those things you touch them just go and it's just like it's just like an infection goes it takes like 3 days for that stuff to go away heat shrunk heat resistant and all that jazz it doesn't weigh as little as the super expensive ones do but you know for what we're doing and that's okay now I have to take these 2-16 a lines and run them back to the drym tank but I don't have to have two lines going to it there's one hard line under the car and I can tee those two together to made up with that one hard line but uh to buy a-16 T fitting is like1 something dollars so I'm just going to make one got these weld on bungs from ICT Billet their stuff all the time it's great and got some aluminum from the metal Place essentially I'm making a y in that capacity and trim this one side going to match to the other side and see how far spaced out they are we'll get them welded together and then we'll cut the end off weld all these on I don't know probably doesn't make any sense how I'm explaining that it makes sense in my head and that's what matters because you will you'll see what happens when I'm done that's what this video is for right you're going to see what happens when I'm done well I got them cut and tacked together they're not quite exactly the same looks like this side has a little bit more whatever to it you know just some of that handmade charm I guess without a jig or like a miter saw it'd be pretty hard to cut this equally freehand if anybody has some uh angle cutting tips even if universally applicable for like heck even doing flooring or something I would love to hear about it because that's something I'm not very good at yet so you know I can see the hole looks about perfect look down in there nice big wall for the fluid to run into I don't really like that so I fixed it with one of these one of my favorite tools a little deuring tool use it on almost everything and it's good enough for the fresh head to basically Mill this out by hand you can see how smooth this is it looks great looks like a machine did it and now going I put this on there it's much better it's radius won't be as turbulent I haven't TIG welded aluminum in 2 years I forgot what settings work good on the welder pretty much just turned it on and let it rip I think this was t62 which I believe most of the yeah T6 most of the aluminum tube i' W for Turbo deal stuff is T4 I definitely had the wrong Rod or something cuz this thing just turned out like crap I mean this side looks okay that's ugly had a blowout there this side just looks terrible and I had to leave these caps on here cuz if you don't the ark will jump off the threads and melt the threads off but I didn't have them tight when I was doing this in case you were wondering and I could have just never showed it to you but I want to be honest you can see where the ark jumped off there right there and I think that's part of my problem is the ark would wander and melt something else like that whenever I would start it cuz I didn't have a good ground I had my oil feed line going through a a bulkhead adapter through my motor plate deal here and you remember how when I put these holes in here I was like oh yeah I'm making it light looks nicer whatever well it turns out is actually serves a practical purpose I can put that in there and then to pull the motor I would just have to take this 16 off the back and not have to touch anything on the pump which makes life easier but this rattled around in here took some aluminum pipe sliced an end off split it open and put it in there to make a bit of a spacer and now this also reduces it from 16 to 12 get this in here [Applause] there we go perfect now it doesn't loot doesn't rattle around I can put the stop nut on the back and it'll be locked down you got to you got to enjoy the little victories because there are so many little defeats that uh they'll just piss you off relentlessly kind of like stabbing your fingers making a end lines with a little when you cut line all these little thingies come flying out kamakazi getting stuck under your fingernails and stuff anybody has any good stories about that leave them in the comments I'd love to read it the oil system in here is pretty interesting took me a while to kind of Cipher this out cuz everybody does it different ways so on the pump back there that very back Port that is the pressure port that feeds the entire engine I have the pressure running directly from the pump to the filter so it hits the filter before it goes to the cooler it goes from the filter I hit my elbow it goes from the filter to the cooler out of the cooler to the pressure feed of the block I haven't got around to changing this yet but this T mechanism here whatever came this this came with the motor that feeds the valve cover ports that go to the spring Oilers now from the dry sump tank back here this line on the bottom goes to the feed Port of the pressure port on the pump and the return goes through another filter before it goes back into the tank at the top these two hard lines go under the car to the bulkhead I made here snake down around the header heat wrapped make sure nothing gets going bad into the bottom here gets pressurized out the top of the pump to the filter and here are all the scavenge lines for the oil pan we already on the engine thankfully don't have to make those there's three in here two of them are kind of joined together and then I got two -16 lines that come out the top and go back to the tank but because of space restrictions it has to go up and over Which is less than desirable to make it look nice but my little y manifold block I made there turned out pretty good and I found this line laying around to go up and over down and join those hard lines right there now I'm cutting out the lower radiator opening and uh to do that I just marked off how high I wanted it to be off the ground use the whole saw to make the ends and now I'm using the little Milwaukee ziz wheel to join the two holes to make a nice slot with rounded ends and to measure this I measured it to be parallel with the floor the bottom of the air dam not parallel with the grill which is how that old Gibbs nose I have was configured so that's what I referenced dang why is this foggy better just realized I forgot to show what I was doing before I was done barely caught myself I'm putting in the lower mesh screen here and again modeling it after that one cuz I know that way works what I did you can see what is left here is I taped this whole perimeter and I took calipers I set them at half an inch or whatever and I just kind of scribed a line the whole way around the tape and then I marked top and bottom center figured out where the end ones are going to go measure the distance between them divided that by three figured out need to be spaced 2 and a half apart so that's what I marked out on the tape dot Soler on the perimeter then I drilled all those holes and now I am riveting this in and for the bottom ones I'm using these backing washers so that it doesn't pull out with uh if it hits something cuz these these rivets will hold this screen in but you know if I hit a you know a piece of debris or a big rock or something like that that extra bit of holding in there would maybe keep this from busting out working on wiring right now figuring out the whole wiring system that's in this car how it works if it does work but first I have to take the distributor that's on this dodge R5 p7 engine I have and change the douch Deutch douche I don't know tell me what it is I had to change the douche connectors to to weather pack connectors to match what was on the car um I could have changed the car two douche connectors to match the distributor but I figured I would stay with what was in the car cuz everything else in the car is standard weather pack deal really helpful to have a pin tool for this kind of fun making wires and making them look nice and pretty thankfully all the wiring in these cars is designed to be visible for inspection purposes that makes tracing things really easy and it's also mostly labeled so you know what everything is for like uh coil B I was messing with this for a while and I couldn't figure out why the little power light would not come on because I had the switch panel out and then I figured out by accident that the little light bulb was grounded to this and it only comes on when it has a ground when it's actually screwed to the dashboard if you take it off to look at the back of the switch the light doesn't work for a little bit I could not figure out why the ignition box switch power did not have power I thought maybe something was broken it wasn't you just have to have the steering wheel kill switch plugged in this is one circuit so if this is unplugged there's no power going to the boxes that is how the kill switch works this button interrupts the circuit that gives ignition boxes power if you didn't know now you know I'm using these MSD crimpers for this and they're about the coolest thing I have ever used they make stuff look like it came from the factory heck of a lot better than you know having an experience with butt connectors and just squishing them with the squishy plier deal this is like this is Real Deal stuff I highly recommend having one of these also get you a box of weather pack connectors on standby got these ones from Mr Gasket just having your garage you never know what you're going to be wiring up like a you know a lot of people have light bars and stuff there's so many things that you can do so much better if you have these tools at your disposal than just hardwire and something you have to cut out later this pile right here is a perfect example of a timec consuming nonsense that has been tying me down I wanted to change out the old Master cylinders I figured it'd be easier to get new ones and to rebuild them so I got these was going to move the old reservoirs well the thread is different it's the same thread but Tilton doesn't put their threads till the very bottom so the reservoir I had did not work I was able to find another one of these plastic ones but they are too wide to fit next to each other so I need to have one of them be smaller be this one this be the small one nowhere local has these laying around cuz most teams stopped using the individual ones they had like a little Bank it was Mount remotely and I didn't want to go to that whole system I don't want to get this done now so I harvested G side of this thing that holds it together it's just this bung that goes in there threads into that I thought huh maybe I could modify the old Billet one and put this in it so pretend I didn't cut this already that thread is not deep enough to go into my new master cylinder so I thought I could just move that bung over to this thing so I cut the old end of it off as evenly as I could with the qu band here and I'm going to make it as flat as I can to make up with the O-ring and I'll just put that bung into here and I'll have it perfect fit same day and I don't have to spend any money which is always a plus turned out pretty nice it's even all the way across be a nice surface for that O-ring to sit on now I'm going to drill the hole and put it in worked out pretty good oh how about that wow can you hear that sounds like time and money saved now I'm working on putting together the fuel cell and see I had this out cuz it's going to get rotated but explain that later the pickup in here well this cell has a built-in fuel pickup back here in the corner you see it's just got a a threaded an O-ring base a end fitting in there and it's got slots in the back you can see it in the reflection that's the pickup which is pretty cool I didn't know that was in there until we took the foam out and found it I thought I was going to have to build something but you cannot submerge regular line into gasoline ethanol whatever it is cuz it'll it'll eat it so we got this special submersible fuel hose here just for mockout purposes essentially it'll be like that I got to put all the rest of the foam back in this will go on there and this is just the bladder without the cell I have to fold that up like a pretzel and jam it through that hole and then unfold it and put everything together that'll be fun took a while playing Tetris with the foam to get something in here that made relative Sense Once the line is in and that goes down in there but it probably took me like it took me like 5 minutes to wrestle this fuel cell bladder through this hole and I probably should have filmed it but I didn't and if I did it would have looked like a monkey on a football because if you've ever done this before which I'm sure a lot of you have uh it's not easy to do and I don't know if there is like a right way to do it if there is please let me know and the fuel system couldn't be more simple it's basically the same as any other carburated muscle car it's got the pickup in the cell that we showed you comes out of here into a filter through the firewall here the rear firewall whatever there's a separate name for that I don't know and it goes through this hard line pops out down there I ran it up here straight into the fuel pump mechanical fuel pump same as any other old hot rod and I chose to run the lines this way this is because this is how they were when I got the car um I figure if that's where the Gibbs car builder decided to put that there's probably a good reason for it so I used the same configuration when it comes to what bar as it goes under and over and this is the kind of stuff that separates people who show up with their helmets in a bag and drive their car and don't know anything about it when I'm driving this car I will know this car and this sounds stupid maybe it does maybe it doesn't but I feel like whenever you have a significant amount of time invested into a machine and you're using it you have a different type of connection with it and I don't know if that's a maybe there's more to it than a mental thing I don't know I just know that it exists I could have bought a running driving car for about the same amount of money that I have invested into this one right now of running driving car of a really good caliber to be about the same as what I'm going to end up with but I would have none of the lessons and knowledge about the car that I have gained during this process including all of the research for the component selection the explanations from guys like Doug why you need this rear end why it does that what it makes the car do why certain things are better than others and certain applications all that stuff is now in my head and there's no better classroom to learn that than a in a practical application I could sit there and listen to somebody say it but when I'm picking it out to put it on my own car it gets engraved on the brain wall a little bit differently right now I'm figuring out how to get the boom tube hooked up that's a bit of a fun process because this car is 105 in wheel-based car and I believe all of the exhaust systems I have are for 110 or 110in Cup car or 112in truck so we have a little bit of clearance problem this is the particular one I want to use I like the way it looks I like this wi pipe setup so I had to go under here and I had to cut out the transmission crossmember which wasn't being used anymore anyway because I have the mid plates being used up there uh you either want to use the mid plate or use the tail shaft crossmember not both because if you have it anchored in three places you could end up cracking the transmission or the bell housing that's not good so usually I mean cross MERS are old school I mean like old old school they don't even most cars don't even come with them anymore it's actually kind of surprising that this one still has them they're…