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Cut Angles for Legs and Supports

2:16
27:09
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At 2:16 in

I Build $3,000 Pottery Barn Outdoor Chairs For $168

What happens here

For the main chair legs, you'll need to make two unique angled cuts. First, mark a 164-degree angle on the bottom end of the leg pieces; this creates the backward tilt. Second, mark a 110-degree angle on the front end of the leg pieces. These angles, specified in the PDF plans, are essential for the characteristic recline of an Adirondack chair. Use the circular saw for these cuts, carefully following the marked lines. This step requires precision to ensure proper assembly and comfort.

Goal: Introduce specific angles to the chair legs and backrest supports for the iconic Adirondack tilt and comfortable seating position. These angled cuts are crucial for the chair's ergonomics.

Tools and materials

  • Circular Saw Ryobi
  • Pencil
  • Speed Square / Combination Square
  • Tape Measure
  • Lumber for Legs Generic Lumber

What they say

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plants via email. Now, moving along, let's start working on our legs. First, these are 40-inch long pieces. If you saw on the PDF plans, we're going to have to make a couple unique cuts here. First, we're going to have to make a little bevel on the bottom here. And that bevel will be our K as is as it's tilted up. This kind of like an Anderand chair, right? So, that's 164°. I already figured all the fancy degrees for you. And then one up front. And the one up front is going to be 110°. And at this point, we're just going to trim that off with our circaw. Uh, it's really hard to make a really straight cut. So, what I found is that if you can figure out a system to replicate your cut every single time, life will be so much easier. In this situation, you can either cut on the line or outside the line. They say save the line, meaning the line's still etched on the ground on your piece. That's my recommendation. That's the way I like to do it is I save the line. That way I know that in case my blade moves a little bit, as long as my line's there, I could always fine-tune, fine cut that remainder little piece or maybe even sand it close enough. Now, I designed this particular set to have the highest point of the seat to be 16 in off the ground, which I found's the most loungeable distance from the ground. So, right now it's probably at 15. By the time we have more stuff on top, that'll be 16. We have our can here. Now, let's get our seats. I found it that working on the bottom seat part/ leg, I guess, works the most efficient.

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