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Assemble the Seat Base

3:50
27:09
100.3K views

At 3:50 in

I Build $3,000 Pottery Barn Outdoor Chairs For $168

What happens here

Lay out the 2x8 pieces that form the bottom of the seat. The video suggests arranging them to ensure the cleanest side of the wood faces upwards. Use a small piece of scrap wood (e.g., 3/8 inch or 1/4 inch thick) as a spacer between the slats to maintain even gaps. Mark the locations for pocket holes on the underside of the seat slats and the connecting side pieces. Apply a generous amount of waterproof wood glue (Titebond II or Titebond III, with Titebond III being ideal for outdoor projects) to all joining surfaces. Secure the seat slats to the side pieces using exterior-grade pocket screws. The design aims for a finished seat height of 16 inches from the ground, ensuring a comfortable lounging position.

Goal: Construct the main seat base using 2x8 lumber, incorporating pocket hole joinery and wood glue for strong, hidden connections. The seat height is designed for optimal lounging comfort.

Tools and materials

  • Drill/Driver Ryobi
  • 2x8 Lumber Pieces Generic Lumber

What they say

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leg, I guess, works the most efficient. So, I have my three pieces that are 2x8s for the bottom part. I have my long sides here. I kind of like to flip them upside down. Also, check make sure you have the cleanest side of the 2 by material, the one that has like the least imperfections on it. Like this is a tear out. That's going to be on the bottom. So, put that on top right there. And we're going to space these out kind of like cleats. There's no math equation here. I just kind of picked a number roughly 3/8 to a quarter. So, that looks like about 3/8 there. And then we're going to overhang this just a bit because there's going to be an apron up front here. Think about here, right? There's going to be an apron. You're sitting down like that. So, all we have to do now is lay out where our pocket holes are going to go. Two is going to be enough per side and wood glue. And that's going to give us adequate bottom support to make sure that no matter the weight, this thing is going to hold up. So, I'm using this little scrap piece right there. As you can see, there's overhang here for this apron. And what I want to do is I want to make sure this crease lines up with this crease. And I'll show you how to tighten it up later. But right now, we're strictly looking for alignment. Once you get your first piece started here, you could just space out as you go and you shouldn't have any problems. And in regards to pocket holes, there's many different pocket hole jigs like this, like this, or my pride and joy, the Craig Foreman, which is a pocket hole machine, but you don't need it unless you are like building mass amounts of cabinets, which every once in a while will do. [Music] Get a little bit of this goo on here. I recommend using a Taibon 2 or Taibon 3. It's the strongest stuff, but Tyon 3, which this is not. This is two, is actually waterproof. Uh, so if you really want it to withstand all the crazy weather conditions, I recommend going with that one. But Taon 2 is strong as well. So I'm not going to worry too much about it. [Music] All you want to focus on this part here is making sure that this is all flush. These boards and the end here. If that's the case, you're going to be looking real good how this thing's going to turn out. I promise. All right, we have our bottom basically complete. All we got to do next is put a brace in the back. And the reason the brace is going to go in here is because from here to here, there's nothing reinforcing it. So, as wood…

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