How Pros Paint Exteriors Flawlessly With an Airless Sprayer
Video by The Idaho Painter
The Idaho Painter
What happens here
This video demonstrates various controlled spraying techniques to minimize overspray and achieve precise paint application on exterior surfaces, specifically a shed. It covers proper spray direction, effective shielding, overlapping passes, safely reaching high areas, and addressing potential issues like runs and sags for a professional finish.
Transcript
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Transcript
(4,391 characters)right, I'm going to show you. I'm spraying this side of the sheds. Logical start and stop. Um, I want to go from, you know, top to bottom. I always shield spray the bottom first. I don't want to spray crosswise. I mean, I do see people spraying this way. You want to go, you know, with the grain. So, the grain and the siding runs, you know, vertically. So, I want to spray vertically. I don't want to spray horizontally. Same here. I don't want to spray horizontally, you know, this way. The grain runs vertically, so I'm going to spray up and down. I don't like logical start and stops. I just shoot the bottom, you know, with my shield. So, I go along, do the bottom, and then I fill everything in using my shield, keep everything off the footings. I typically hand do my corners. Um, but then I'll shield use my cardboard shield like this to spray this direction. You definitely always want to remove your down spouts. I'm going to remove my down spouts after I shoot this video. Part of spraying properly is overlapping 50% so I get the proper mill thickness. I don't want to, you know, come out here and and just touch the other edge. I want to overlap 50%. You want to try to spray the top. If you're not tall enough to spray the top, you want to get on a ladder. So, I typically when I'm spraying, I'll have a short ladder, you know, with me that I could shoot anything I can't reach the top. So, I'm going to come across the top just like that. Get the top done. Get my ladder back out of the way. So, I got to get underneath here. So, I'm going to go. So, now I've hit this once. So, I want to turn over faster because I don't want to cause a run there. because you've hit that twice. Keep an eye on it for runs. So, you can see I'm shooting down at a downward angle to hit that. So, I'm shooting down, shooting at an upward angle to hit that. Some people will say, "You're, aren't you supposed to have, you know, your um gun square to the surface while you're spraying and not arcing? There's a time and a place for everything." And arcing is not going to cause issues. Yeah, in uh theory you want to have it square, but the arcing, not an excessive arcing. Throwing overspray everywhere is not going to be a big deal. When you're using extensions, you can see it spits. Um that's the nature of extensions, but you'll never see the spits on exterior siding. It never matters unless you're spraying something fine finish like trim, cabinetry, furniture, etc. So, I'm hitting this angle because I got to hit this side right here. So, I don't want to hit it square. I want to hit that side. And then I turn it back. So, 50%. When I come up here, I turn it back quickly so I don't come up and then just end. I turn it back quickly so I don't cause a heavy spot in a run. When I'm spraying like this type of siding, like T111 siding or that has this groove right here, if my gun is at an angle, I'm going to be missing this side of the groove. I'll be spraying the opposite side. So, I want to have the gun square to that groove. But then when I come to the end right here, if I have it square right here, I'm actually going to be missing that side. So, I I've got to have my gun shoot it at an angle right there. And typically, if you probably saw overspray, when I get to my corners, typically always have my cardboard shield with me. Just like that. So, now that I I got the side sprayed, you know, I'll typically be spraying, you know, the whole thing. Anywhere where I've had like, you know, overlaps, if you're unfamiliar with the product, the sun's hitting the side, it's going to dry so fast, you would never get any runs. This is a cool side, little bit damp. these overlaps right here, you could get, you know, possibly a sag, you know, right there if you're using too big of a tip. I use a 515 tip, which helps eliminate some of that. It gives you the proper mill thickness. You're less likely to have runs and sags, but I'd keep an eye on that. If you needed to brush it, if it started to sag, you would just hit it with a brush sooner than later, cuz as it begins to dry and coagulate, if you hit it with a brush too late, you'll put a really big brush stroke on it. on the opposite side. I did it, but the sun's hitting that side. There's no way you're gonna get a sag on that side. This has got to dry before I do those shakes anyways. So, um I'm not concerned about it.
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