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How Painters Can Epoxy Garage Floors Without Expensive Equipment

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Video by The Idaho Painter

The Idaho Painter

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This DIY project demonstrates how to apply a multi-layer epoxy flake flooring system from Citadel Floor Finishing Systems to a garage floor. The process involves cleaning, priming, applying two layers of epoxy with decorative flakes, scraping and sanding the flakes, and finishing with a durable polyurea top coat designed to resist hot tire pickup and scratching. The video highlights specific Citadel products and their cure times.

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All right. So, the flooring system that we use, Citadel flooring system. First thing we primed the floor with EP55, which is the primer coating that we put down first. Then we threw our first flake coat and we used the PLE 100 FC. It's a Fast Gear epoxy that we threw our first flake coat on. Then we came back, top coated that with UL80 Poly aspartic. Threw our next flake coat on top of that. And then we're going to be going over the top of that with our final uh finish coat, Poly1 HD UDP, which is a performance top coat that resists hot tire pickup and scratching. All right, so I'm going to talk about a little bit about the system that we're using. So we're using Citadel's flooring system and I'll talk about the products that we've applied and we're still we're not 100% done, but I'm going to talk a little bit about, you know, those products. So the first product we applied was a primer. So we came in, pressure wash, clean the floor. We primed it with EP55. So that's a primer kind of a system you can use, you know, instead of acid etching, grinding and stuff. So it it works extremely well. Then we uh waited a day, came back, and then we did our first flake coat, which we use uh PLE 100 FC, which is a performance leveling epoxy. So that's and with the FC as a fast cure. So, we wanted it to dry fast because we're uh doing multiple coats, you know, in a day. So, if you're don't have a lot of experience with, you know, products that dry, you know, fast cure products, it's 15minute cure time. So, pot life is extremely fast. That stuff that where you're working doing your cutins starts to um go off in 15 minutes and harden. So, if you don't have a lot of experience, something you might not want to use, probably want to use something with a longer cure time. We did our first coat of PLE 100. Uh threw down our flakes. We took about I think it was 3 hours 15 minutes. Uh took a a break, waited for that to cure. You know, we came back and then we scraped those. And this was a system we don't want to drag this out, you know, quite a few days. We're trying to get this done, you know, in 2 days. So, we did the scraping. Then we came back and did a coat of polyaspartic on top of that which is a longer cure time. 35 minute cure time gives you more working time. So we threw down that first clear coat of uh UL80 from Citadel. Threw down another flate coat on top of that. That was later in the evening when we got that done. Then we shut the garage doors, left them open a little bit so things can ventilate. got here early in the morning, raised the garage doors, tested it to make sure that it was um dry enough, cured enough that we can get on and walk on it again. It was uh you know, completely cured, dried. We did our scraping once again. Um scraping three different directions. Our final uh top coat is Poly1 HD UDP. And that is a performance top coat, a polyurea top coat that is going to be more resistant to hot tire pickup and more resistant to scratching cuz we do have a really dark floor. We got, you know, a black uh floor with tide pool flakes on it. So, lighter floors don't show scratches as much. So, we're not so concerned about that with lighter floors. at a darker floor, the top coat is going to be a better performance top coat in this situation. So, that's kind of like what this whole system that we got going on here. A multi-day system. It's not a one-day floor. It's a multi-day, you know, floor. And it's going to look absolutely amazing.

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