Completely Gutted Our Laundry Room

hey welcome back to another episode here on the mr build channel behind me is the laundry room and today we're going to remodel it but first we want to thank the sponsors of today's video flex seal now let's go take a look inside on today's episode we're going to be transforming this laundry room it's fine it's functional there's plenty of room but we're going to make it better besides i don't like it so we're going to take this basic laundry room and and turn it to that plum dim for a sink got a drying rack tons of storage huge countertop built-in cabinets for the hamper and ironing boards and all that stuff let me show you how i did it and exactly how much it cost [Music] so the vision that i have for this is i want to kind of center this here it's kind of an awkward space i hate that you can use this for folding but it's really awkward so i want a big wraparound countertop let's do our favorite part of a project demo day [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] there's going to be nothing but socks behind the washer and dryer okay now that the demo is done in the laundry room we're going to start building the base cabinets so i got three different types of cabinets i went with a sanded pine instead of the maple or birch finish saves me about 20 bucks a sheet so so far we're looking pretty dang good i measured my cabinets they're going to be unorthodox they're going to be 40 inches tall which is crazy but i wanted to come over the washer dryer next up for the sides is to cut out the toe kick three and a half inches deep four inches long the tape is there to make sure when we use our jigsaw that it doesn't start tearing out all of our plywood we need to create a quarter inch channel on both sides in order for the quarter inch plywood to slide down as a backer piece i'm going to create two passes eighth inch plus another eighth inch crates quarter inch that'll be a perfect size or you can throw a dado stack but this is a quick way let's assemble some cabinets folks everything's cut gonna position it there use our inch and a quarter pocket screws right over there and some wood glue just to bring it all together [Music] [Applause] [Music] finishing touch for the cabinet the quarter inch plywood so let's slide that into this little channel we created beautiful look at that perfect gaps and a beautiful interior all three cabinet carcasses for the lower cabinets are done before we do the face frame let's do the top two cabinets i'm gonna have because in the middle of them i'm gonna have floating shelves so the two ones are gonna be huge i'll have them in two corners let's bust us out real quick [Music] i'm gonna start cutting them up and putting pocket holes to create a fairing and then i'm gonna put pocket holes on the outside here to attach it our first face frame is officially complete make sure corner to corner is the same number we're gonna let it dry sanded to attach them i'm gonna put pocket holes on the outside there's gonna be filler pieces between the walls and you won't see the sides so we'll clamp the sucker on drill the pocket hole through and then attach this face frame let's go do a dry mock-up to make sure that we're on plan how we should be going so i did a terrible job calculating this i did not consider this space here i forgot that because it's 24 inches these cabinets need to be 24 inches not 27 and a half so i got to figure out how to shorten this i think i can run it on my table saw and then re-re-secure it but golly it's frustrating christ is averted shaved about five inches off this thing not bad perfect now we gotta do this one at this point i feel comfortable securing these cabinets and then the upper cabinets as well we will be assembling our doors using a three-piece router kit style rail and the panel bin [Music] make sure you know which way is up typically the top part of the bit like right here is gonna be the back side you don't want to when you rotate flip them this way because you're going to have one front one back and look at that folks a beautiful perfect door could not be happy with it the doors are all dried and finished up they look great i'm gonna take them out of the clamps sand off any wood glue that's there round over the edges and then we'll start installing the hardware to fit them on and this is just an alignment on the side and this is a forstner bit that creates a hole that you cut flush to the top and this will sit perfectly inside of it i'm also going to pre-drill these holes here because i don't want this to crack because it's a little more dense all right let's go install these doors uh we'll need a pilot drill just a drill bit that we can create a pilot hole so it doesn't split the face frame all right guys we're getting ready to install the tile i made sure to scrape up all the linoleum adhesive so it looks perfect this is a polished porcelain towel i got it from lowe's i'll link the description it's not expensive at all i think the whole thing cost me maybe like 150 bucks now the leveling system i'm using is this uh marshalltown fast cap system it has these little spacers these are 1 16 of an inch put them together then you roll the cap on these threads and i'll level the the tile to make sure that it's completely flush with the next tile next to it now because we're using a large format tile we have to get a large format tile tile mortar for the floor we're going to apply it on the ground and then use these half inch trowels to create these layers and on the back side of the tile we're going to do what's called a back butter button that makes sure that everything gets sticky on both sides there's no air bubbles and it can be picture perfect all right guys it's been a one full day the tile is all cured man i'm a huge fan of this marshall town fast cap system like i said i got it at lowe's super easy to use very happy probably the best tile job i've ever done i will go on record say that now to pop these off this is really cool you got to just kick them in the direction where this line is set up so if this flap is sideways you got to kick it this way not that way so here's an example look at that how easy it's officially grout time so we're using this a sanded mix you can do it as small as 1 8 to as high as 5 8 of a joint and then once mixed up using a grout squeegee to push it all in place okay it's like 28 degrees outside my hands are freezing i think this is ready to go let's do it all right we'll let it sit for about 15 30 minutes and then we'll start taking a sponge and cleaning everything up so now i have a video where i show you three different ways to make floating shelves and you can probably check it out i don't know somewhere right here but in this situation we're going to build floating shelves that are between two cabinets which is a lot easier to do i'm going in the top bottom and the front face both are going to be mitered but the back is just going to be the way it is i'm going to start cutting this up and we'll see how we're going to attach them i heard somebody tell me that if you want a nice tight miter you want to get it like 45 and a half now we have to start cutting up the pieces are going to be the supporting brackets and well one piece is going to be here this is 10 and a half and then one piece is going to go down here across that's going to be 55 inches the way this is i'm going to secure those into the cu and against the cabinets you know brad nails screws whatever have you and then we're going to sandwich this and wood glue this on brad nail in place and then fill everything else with wood filler sand it paint it and nobody'll know the difference um i don't know why the bad seams came out not as great they're not terrible but they're not the best in the meantime what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna go cut this piece and try to attach it pocket holes on the sides and then maybe a bracket on the side there how cool does that look it looks so nice so clean good morning guys uh we are refreshed and ready to tackle the plumbing an electrical situation that i know is going to be a headache i've already started cutting some drywall out but i need to do some more so we're going to need to add a water supply and an adequate draining for the sink that will be here in the 24 inch cabinet what i figure we're going to do is we're just going to chop this off chop that off throw this piece away and then we're going to add a three-way sanitary drain that way we'll have this part basically mirrored here we'll keep our vent and then for this one we'll add the drainage for the new sink i've realized this is going to be the hardest time try to create these cuts with such narrow room to be able to fit these pipes so i think what i'm going to do is i'm going to chop this down here remove that fit all the plumbing perfectly and then i'll just build a little nice box frame around it so i could secure drywall i'm going to do this little extension piece um just because there's a gap here add the cement on push it in things when there are vent tubes like this there's flex because it's going up into the attic so this is going to be here as you can see this is our drain for the washer it needs a p-trap so we'll have it here that was the original one put a little extender piece and that should be good now that we have the drain for the washer we'll do the drain for the sink uh this is a 90 degree long span elbow just to get an eve easier flow the moral of the story with plumbing is to cut down all the turbulence for drainage all right up next we're going to start doing the water supply line for the faucet you get a little holder like this for the the water supplies these are copper jade lines they go in here secured in place with these little caps they tighten it in place usually i've always used the hand clamping uh but i got this we'll see how it looks we're gonna use these uh tees they're gonna go in place like this with the pex rings and the pecs crimped in place and then we'll be able to connect them over there because there was not enough room to tap into this line i had to do a little detour around works perfectly fine totally okay we'll take this outlet off piggyback the cable down over close this off when we're done [Music] so the plumbing is all done we're just gonna start working on the countertop today so we can get to the point where we can connect the plumbing that's there it's gonna go in an l shape across here there's gonna be plenty of support for it except for one place obviously in the back here i'm gonna use the scrap piece of wood the one by two that i had and i'm gonna create a perfect line and secure through the studs in place so therefore this will be the only span that will overhang and i think will be just fine at this point we're gonna brad nail it on top to make sure it doesn't move anywhere cut out this little piece and then we'll stack another slide over we're gonna lay two pieces one full piece here one full piece there and we're to use the flex glue uh layer on top here what that's going to do is glue everything together this stuff is super thick it's a heavy duty construction adhesive and the best part about using it right now as opposed to let's say wood glue or anything is that i don't wait for wood glue to dry for to prevent moving this has instant grab so when you start putting a bunch of it down put the thing on top brad nail it just in place and then we'll start working on the edge [Music] this is exactly what we're looking for the same level so this is the front edge we're going to attach it to the side uh side grain of the particle board now i can't just would use wood glue on this because the wood glue will seep all the way through those little particle board pieces so i think what i'm going to do is i'm going to use the flex glue again because it's so thick and it has instant grab so what i have here is two rolls of formica which is like a laminate that you can glue on they don't have it in store so something that has to be ordered took about five days show up it's like this fake marble look but in the meantime i'm gonna start cutting this on my table saw the two dimensions that i will need to make this work so for a dry fit folks there's no safe way to use my table saw for this because how long this piece is so i think what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna lay down on a solid platform and use my track saw and then if you guys don't have a track saw just use a circular saw with a guide okay so we have a few things here this is the adhesive specifically for for mic it's going to be the same section at every hardware store the benefits of this is that it applies milky but then when it dries it's clear a couple things to know you're gonna roll it on with this really tiny uh roller really short nylon hairs again it's all sold in the same section they're saying that you have to roll both the front and the back side of your vinyl or laminate or formica whatever you want to call it um it starts getting tacky by 20 30 minutes but it should be dry about an hour so i'm gonna see what we can do i've never done this again so we'll see if we can learn from my mistakes so i'm gonna start pressing it on and then i got a roller you can use any kind of roller this is actually like a linoleum floor roller but if you can find a regular roller you can use it as well and then we'll rub it on and see how firmly we can press it in you guys i think it's looking good so far like it's it's actually doing what it needs to do i'm not crying which is great it's always a good day let's start doing the same for the top here [Music] we have to let it dry for an hour before we start trimming this and then filing it down i will say this is an mvp you need a roller a heavy duty one okay so everything's dry we're ready to start trimming anything that needs to be trimmed um what they're saying is when you're filing the piece that's on top make sure you're filing it down and not up into it which makes sense because you can catch this and rip the glue off beautiful countertop i cannot believe that i just did this uh it's a lot easier than it looks definitely a great place to start especially especially like if you got like a laundry room right it's not like the middle of the kitchen let's start cutting out spot for the sink it's a top mount so it drops in we're gonna cut a hole for it we're gonna first make our measurements typically sinks are four inches from the edge here you don't want them too deep and the way we're gonna approach the cut is a couple of pilot holes in the corners with the drill and then follow through nicely with the jigsaw let's party folks it's tile day oh backsplash day i got all my tile here three boxes this is satori i got it at lowe's they're 25 bucks a box so very inexpensive 75 bucks for the whole thing here we're gonna use these spacers these are 16 inch spacers and go right in the middle i want to see how many tile full top pieces can actually go into the space and if something needs to be trimmed we'll trim the two outer ones so it looks like it's uh centered [Music] [Applause] [Music] what backsplashing is actually a great place to start for somebody who hasn't done too much home renovation stuff you use the quarter inch part and you create these grates and you have these little grooves inside that could create an air pocket so your job is to just like you would apply butter to a piece of toast you back butter it make sure all your edges are clean anything that's sticking there is going to come out into your grout line and then you have to clean it up then what i like to do is run my finger just to create a small little cleaning channel there as well again as soon as we press this on it's going to squeeze out i don't want it to do give it a little wiggle up and down set our little spacers you can figure out whichever size you need and there we go we're just going to continue the pattern [Music] last piece of tile bittersweet moment i can't be more happy with this it's perfect i've never done a better job than this and i think i just have to fail enough time i'm gonna go buy some shiplap and start stacking this completely vertically i use an adhesive and uh brad nails so i got my brad nailer here i'm using the flex glue uh the flex glue is really great because it has instantaneous grab so you don't have to wait for it to be falling down i literally can put it on push it against and i'll stay there apply a liberal amount and start brad nailing in on the tongue side and then the groove side will cover it so that way you won't see a bunch of brad nails all over the place that we have to fill [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] guys the shiplap came out awesome i'm definitely continue wrapping this side of the wall give it character texture i finished off last night all of the shiplap going to the backside here to finish off this grout i'm going to pop all these little spacers out and then clean up with this little nylon brush specifically for tile anywhere i still have any of that mask stick or tile adhesive and then we'll start getting it sponged down or ready for grout [Music] all right we're gonna let the grout dry it's the exact same grout actually that we used on the ground here so this way at least we'll match it a little bit let it dry clean it up a few times and then we'll start masking things off finally painting these cabinets we're gonna let the backsplash cure for the next two days in the meantime let's start taking these doors off mask everything off and start shooting some primer we're gonna shoot it i'm using hvlp sprayer diluted with water about 10 to 15 [Music] so for the paint we're going to use the same paint we actually did the cabinets in the kitchen it's called baby fawn it's by benjamin moore put this down besides this was left over so didn't have to buy the paint saving money [Laughter] all right so the next day everything is dry let's put the cabinet doors back on [Music] [Laughter] i'm switching out the sinks this thing looks too cheap for as nice of a laundry room that we're creating now this is my new one it's flat it's more square it's more modern the drain is to the side i think it's going to look so much better it's a top mount so they don't usually look nice this is the best option let's throw that in the faucet situation got a nice beautiful champagne colored one down the middle this has a retractable head barely going to clear this but we're working really well you can attach it drop it down connect the plumbing sinks hooked up nothing's leaking uh up next is to put the drying rack up here i'm gonna put these on the sides and hang the hangers on there all right folks one of the last things that's very important for us to do is to waterproof the edges of this countertop and the backsplash in the sink so i've masked everything off with blue tape just to make my bead a lot more cleaner and easier to clean up i'm using flexshot what flexshot is it's a waterproofing adhesive that when you press on this little nozzle a bead comes out you can control the flow and then you use your finger to wipe it down it dries uh white which is great it'll match this countertop i'll do the sink i'll do the backsplash and the entire perimeter that way when something gets spilled here it doesn't go into the cabinets on the floor well it'll go on the floor this way but not that way i'm gonna get a quick beat and then i'll start doing touch-ups and paint and i'll show you the big reveal see in a little bit [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right folks let's talk about the budget for this laundry room makeover the paint supplies were 77 the plumbing and electrical was 183 the money that was spent on the backsplash was 90 dollars total the shiplap and the door trim was 382 the floor tile and all the supplies there for that was 217 dollars the cabinet plus all the other hardware that comes with the cabinet was 373 dollars things to…