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Initial Surface Preparation & Priming

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16:25
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Caulking and Priming. Get your house ready to paint.

What happens here

Before applying any primer or caulk, ensure the surface is properly prepared. Use a scraper to remove any loose or peeling paint. For more extensive or stubborn areas, an orbital sander can be used to smooth the surface and feather out edges of old paint. Once loose debris is cleared, apply a high-quality primer, specifically Rust-Oleum Triple Thick primer mentioned in the video, to the exposed areas. This primer is chosen for its high resin content, which helps to glue down peeling edges and fill minor imperfections, creating a stable base. It also serves to prime any bare wood or substrate exposed during the scraping process, ensuring better adhesion for the final paint and caulk layers. The primer applied is tinted white, which is beneficial for visibility, allowing you to clearly see where the primer has been applied.

Goal: Begin by removing any loose or peeling paint from the affected areas using a scraper or orbital sander. Apply a high-resin primer, such as Rust-Oleum Triple Thick, to seal down peeling edges, fill small cracks, and prepare the surface for subsequent caulking and painting.

Tools and materials

  • Orbital Sander
  • Paint Brush (Chinex filament)
  • Primer
  • Scraper

What they say

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so I'm going to be doing some priming on the house typically on our exteriors any priming that we got on siding trim anything we're going to be using Rust-Oleum triple thick primer super high resin content and it's an amazing primer helps glue down peeling edges um fills in cracks and stuff it's a great primer we typically use it on on almost every single home that we paint there's not a lot of priming on this house I don't need very much we're probably only going to be using about a quart I do like using a chinex filament brush when I'm doing any type of priming because the primer won't stick to the chinex filament like it will other brushes I use a premier Riverdale I'm just going to go around start doing some of this priming where we sanded sealing down some of these edges of the peeling paint and priming the bare wood that was you know exposed so um usually I'll do multiple coats of prime timer in these areas and I'll prime before I do caulking that way there's any bare wood it gets primed before there's any caulking this primer will help Prime the bare wood help feel the crack help feather the edges where this peeling paint is oh definitely want to get anything peeling first that's loose before you do any priming so I got everything that is loose there I'll do is I'll prime it sand it with a sponge hit it with the primer again and then I'll caulk any thing that needs to be cocked one thing I do like there's other forms of this product other brands the triple thick is tinted white other brands it'll dry clear and you won't have any idea where you went so I like the triple thick because I can tell where I went after it dries I try to get the edges of the paint if there's anything lifted up you know scrape it off but once you prime it it seals it then we'll sand any of those edges that are lifted and then we'll re-prime it again and then I'll they'll be glued down corner boards and fascia that are all swollen from water damage we're going to want to just try to get those sealed up as best we can so water doesn't get down inside this fascia and continue to swell and do damage this is again this looks like wood but it's not actually wood it's just ground up wood fiber

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