Building a Simple Gate that Doesn't sag

that's no good that means today we're going to be building ourself a brand new drive-thru fence gate fence gates are awesome because if you have the property the space kind of like we do here this is ideal location to have maybe an RV a boat a trailer whatever to put it in here this fencing all sucks it's super old and in fact none of it matches like there's vinyl stuff over there there's newer stuff there but because this is the front facing side of the house it has to have this accent to it and today by goly we're going to do that we need to start digging our posts first um an average trailer you got to consider is probably about 6 ft wide if it's like a utility trailer no like 7 ft wide an average camper Toby High camper is about 8 ft who knows how big or a monstrosity you want to get after that so we're going to stay ins theide of uh give it like a 10ft trailer wide thing so if it's an 8ft camper they have a foot on each side the goal here is to make sure this thing doesn't sag at all and that's our number one goal so we could go towards like 12 ft give it even more room but you have more potential of sagg and we're avoiding sagage 10 ft's the number I'm going to try to line up with this line here as my first post and because we have an old AC unit here our next post is going to be somewhere here let's start [Music] digging this is just my luck there's a concrete form already underneath here looks like where the old fence used to be so that means our job is going to be even harder we have to dig out the old one to put the new one in nothing can go easy around here [Music] this is ridiculous there's one right here as well I'm not digging these up I think what I'm just going to do is move it one foot forward in front which means it's just going to butt up right here as opposed to here yeah it is what it is I don't really care that much for it but that kind of blows a little bit just a little bit [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right post setting post 101 your hole has to be a third length of your post that's number one number two add some drainage at the bottom uh that drainage a little bit of Rock when water starts coming down it's all going to start seeping at the bottom if you don't have any rocks eventually your the water will lift the post out with the concrete so drainage third of the hole catch a breath concrete high strength mix it up throw it in there and then we got to make sure this thing is set leveled overnight [Music] [Applause] [Music] so some of you might be commenting that I should have put forms down I don't like using forms on post because when you dig the hole out and you put the concrete forms in there is uh very little chances that all the gaps around will get filled they're usually great for dispersing energy downwards like a deck uh but something that has side to side push uh by putting concrete straight into the hole it fills the entire cavity off so in my experience that tends to work a lot better also when you start finishing these ends off right here create a tiny slope again if you create a too flat water can pull and stay in there but if you get a little tiny slope water drips away making sure your pressure treated would last a lot longer guys when I started building in 2016 I had no experience I had no knowledge and I didn't know where to look for the information so I just founded bits and pieces all over the Internet that's why I wish that I had the Woodworkers Guild of America that's why if you are a beginner woodworker maybe you're just starting or thinking about building things yourself or or maybe you're an expert already Woodworkers Guild of America is the One-Stop shop for all project ideas all building and all knowledge when it comes to creating something with your hands Woodworkers Guild of America is an online woodworking resource for ideas information or anything related to building it's a community where passionate Woodworkers come together to express their creativity and to master their craft you'll find interesting articles project ideas product reviews and my personal favorite q&as with experts in their field they have tons of premium video subjects including wood turning Band Saw techniques cabinet making finishes Jigs and fixtures shop safety joinery hand tools gluing and clamping lath turning and much much more you'll find incredible resources like project design sharpening your tools your shop setup tool buying advice wood shop tips beginner level and advanced level woodworking one of my recent lessons I've learned in woodworker Guild of America is sharpening my hand tools I was terrible at it I was putting the wrong bevel on it and I was actually damaging the blade the metal cuz I was doing it completely wrong I wish I had the Woodworkers Guild of America when I first got started in this stuff and they're offering an incredible deal for the viewers of this channel the first 1,000 people who click the link in description below will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only a149 that's $149 first a th000 people Rush click the link get all the information you can and start building thank you Woodworkers Guild of America for teaching us and partnering us on this channel now let's get back to this video our posts are in the concrete is drying we're going to start working on Lumber we got to get this thing light enough but yet strong enough to swing open and close we're using 2x4 Douglas fur here I picked out the cleanest ones I could find we still have some prints that they had from the factory so we're going to give it a light sand get all that stuff off and then we're going to seal it with deck staining this is a semi-transparent the picture looks good but the weird thing about these pictures is it never really looks like that on different wood species so we're about to find out how it turns out this is the framing it's drying real nice the color is not what it looked like on the can so it looks teak this just looks like you know Amber like shellac or something for the sides we're going we're sticking with the wood species Pine uh this is tongue and groove and I think in order to create this more modern kind of look the gaps have to be uh even so you'll have this kind of almost like shiplap uh look to it and I think that will be pretty freaking sick so uh this doesn't really need much sanding or anything but we're definitely got about 26 pieces to stain that means it's going to make for a long day of staining [Music] all right let's start building our framing here so I picked up the hardware got this is a Home Depot this is the gate uh anti- sag uh bracket so they go in these corners but what's cool about them is that the the butt joints overlap so it strengthens a lot stronger now the bad part is its maximum width is 5T and I'm pushing at 5 and 1/2 ft hopefully those Engineers kind of plan that people like me are going to do stuff like that so we're going to start a su of this together and see how really anti-ag it [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] is you know what first Impressions I really like these brackets mostly because they look promising I mean time will tell but also it's nice to have a reassurance that this is going to keep it Square uh as you're attaching them or else I would have to kind of finagle with them but no side to side movement at all um so far it's relatively light cuz we're going to add more wood to it but uh so far I I like them you know built-in hinges the screws are nice and they're not Phillips so cuz I'll be stripping them left and right uh not bad each kit 40 bucks which is two of them is going to be what 80 damn I'm on fire with this math uh not a bad deal uh let's bust out another [Music] one concrete cured pretty well I'm a little nervous about the natural Flex that a 4x4 does have maybe going 4x6 would have been a better option I don't know I know even metal would have done the same but we did our job right we pour the right footings in we put the right Post in next up let's hang this piece against this wall here this will give this section A little bit more reinforcement from flexing It Forward oh and by the way the string got it all leveled nice thing is never really had to cut anything so so far we're off to a good start [Music] I think we're ready for our doors so glad I didn't put the cleats on makes it a whole lot easier to carry I'm thinking swinging out this way as opposed to swinging in that way cuz that's going to block off this walkway it's going to be weird might be even a danger Hazard people not seeing somebody walking out as they're backing up so this gate will open up for us I don't know what I'm going to do with this I need a drill [Music] all right fingers crossed please line up and don't be too big or too small it's a little bit like a little little bit dang all right that's perfect a little tweaking and we're looking good here the latch will catch it this will give it enough tension so it's not sagging I think we're good next up I'm going to put my last piece down below and we'll start wrapping this thing with all the beautiful tongue and groove that we [Music] got here's the plan tongue and groove start from the bottom work your way up one Brad nail goes inside the tongue part and the other one goes and hits the previous tongue part so essentially we're only going see one nail now in terms of nails most fencing they use you know certain kind of I don't know gauge of nails nails but we're going to use brad nails and I know I'm going to give some crap for this but we have to conceal the the nail holes so to make sure it's also strong because brad nails aren't really typically that strong we're going to go with a 16 gauge it's a thicker steel we're not far off from a regular thickness of gauge which is probably like what 10 on a regular fence so I think this will keep things nice and clean and strong for what we need need [Music] it piece of advice I'll give you that I just realized myself so it's not like coming from a professional is uh these gaps when it comes to where the hinge side is make sure cuz you want to keep a minimum right but you also got to keep in mind they have to open all the way so as you could see this opens all the way and uh that means our Gap here is almost like 38 to/ an inch that's exactly half an inch so something to keep in mind um when it comes to tackling this [Music] yourself this is rad uh I'm especially excited about uh the fact that everything's lining up right so you have like three different variables here I was really nervous the fence is going to start sagging in so this would not be symmetrical but so far so good I'm shy about one or two sticks to cap off this part just like I did there but in the meantime cuz I still need to go buy those two sticks and stain them I'm going to wrap this section uh that way this will be like one full piece here and then whatever the rest of the fencing is going to do is just going to do but uh this is so rad [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] Hardware time so I got these nice beefy black handles that look look super super cool so I think I'll attach it somewhere right here doesn't make too much sense to go too high so somewhere there then we'll start throwing the is the locks and all that jazz [Music] well there you have it guys built a trailer gate that does not sag on us it looks incredible it looks fantastic I I love that it's an accent piece from the front side of the yard I think it's a great addition to this house and in case you're wondering about the budget on this roughly about $1900 for the hardware that includes both the latches and the anti-ag hardware and then probably another $700 for All the lumber to create a basically a 15t stretch that's this week's project thank you so much for watching this in the meantime check out a video that think you might enjoy [Music]