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Final Sanding After Primer

10:41
18:47
6.5K views

At 10:41 in

$25 Door Restoration. From Junk to Useable in 3 hours.

What happens here

After the primer has dried for two days, it is sanded to remove any remaining lint from the roller, smooth out the surface further, and address any minor imperfections that became visible after priming. An Ekasand 3x4 orbital sander is used with 320-grit Filmtek abrasives for flat areas and an Ekasilk sanding sponge for contours. The presenter emphasizes avoiding excessive heat build-up while sanding to prevent gumming up the abrasive or damaging the coating. He also mentions a small brush (1.5 inch Fat Boy brush with nylon polyester blend) is used for 'laying out' paint on the trim around the glass panels, because the narrowness of the trim. The goal is a super smooth surface ready for the final topcoat.

Goal: Achieve a perfectly smooth surface by sanding the dried primer coat, removing lint and minor flaws.

Tools and materials

  • 1.5-inch Fat Boy BrushBrushing paint on narrow trim areas around the glass panels
  • Ekasand 3x4 Sander EkasandSanding flat surfaces of the primed door
  • Ekasilk 3x4 SpongeFine sanding of contours and profiles after priming
  • Filmtek 3x4 AbrasivesFine sanding of flat areas after priming
  • Woven-Pro 4" RollersRolling paint for consistent, lint-free finish

What they say

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so our door has had it's actually been drying for two days the primer's dry now should uh seal any type of tannin bleed or dye migration now uh we're gonna be sanding it getting off those um the lints that were left behind and i've actually decided to actually hand brush and roll this roll this door so it stays consistent with the look of how everything else in this house looks hand brushed and rolled so you'll see us let me hand brush and roll the store here shortly [Music] so i'm standing the door's got to get this uh the lens fuzz that's left behind i'm using film tech 320 to do all my flat sanding on this door now with my heck of sand three by four [Music] right [Music] so now i'm using its open cell echo silk um sanding sponge right here it's a medium fine sanding sponge to do the contours [Music] all right so we're just rolling right along here i got the first coat done on my door i just want to show you my setup i got a two gallon bucket cut in bucket with a one gallon grit i'm just using a four inch roller this time around when i primed it i didn't use a lint free roller i did talk about woven pro rollers here it is these are woven pro rollers a two pack and it tells you specifically right on the roller that it's lint free that's something you always want to get when you're dealing with um trim and really you should just always be using lit free rollers to begin with woven pro nine inch and four inch are lit free rollers i did sand the door got the lints off i missed a couple of them so i want to just talk a little bit about the brush i was using i'm using a little inch and a half fat boy brush right here it's got a nylon polyester blend i used this style of brush right here on this door because of the trim right here kind of really small and narrow and this is the easiest brush to use on something like that and i didn't want to switch brushes that do the layout right here because you can see it went really fast i just rolled it on with my four inch roller 3 8 inch woven pro and then laid it out really fast now this is going to dry probably about you know an hour so and i can just lightly hit um sand the other little lints that are off here get rid of those and do my final coat this is benjamin moore advanced which uh sprays out pretty dang well it's amazing brushing and rolling that's why we're using it in this job i typically wouldn't do a trim job spraying it on a job like this but we're using it because it brushes and rolls absolutely amazing…

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