$25 Door Restoration. From Junk to Useable in 3 hours.

this christie idaho painter here on paint live tv today i'm going to be doing a door this is the front door right here it's a stained gray door that's been painted on one side stain grade on the other side we're making it paint great on both sides so if you want to see how this door turns out being painted on a 1950s remodel stay tuned for this video [Music] hi chris what can i help you find i just got to get some uh crawford's vinyl spackling paste and i need some bondos spot glazing and putty i need some frog tape and a few abrasives working on a 1950s uh remodel restoring a door just got to get a few of these items and after i grab these items i gotta get going to get work on this door [Music] how's the duplex project coming along uh so far so good it's been um a long project it's come coming along we are almost done got a couple doors due and then hopefully we'll be out of there on to the next project so um so far so good once again cool have an awesome day maddie you too so here it is we got to one side right here this is it's a stain grade door it started off stain grade the um it's been here it's a 1950s remodel you can see this side has already been painted we're going to be painting both sides right here i'm going to be painting the inside to match the interior trim we're going to be painting the outside to match the exterior scheme of the house and in order to paint this door we're turning it was a stain grade door we've got to make this thing paintable so there's going to be some certain things we're going to be doing to this door to make it presentable to look really good in the end and you can see we're getting rid of small small nicks and dings using bondo if there's anything large would be using spackle we're doing caulking of any types of seams on this i'm using tower um sealants accelerator caulking which won't crack if you're using any type of flat paints but it's also paintable immediately if you spray it or you can brush it within 30 minutes so all the seams we've caulked there's little nail heads because it was a paint grade door i've bundled all those nail heads we sanded the door to get this it's really grainy right here and if you just spray this door it's not going to fill in that grain you got to do do something to push in paint into that grain to get it to fill it so we're going to be priming it i'm going to be rolling it with the primer first to fill in that grain we'll sand it and then we'll spray our top coat on it we've got our glass masked off with frog tape because we don't want anything bleeding off onto any paint bleeding onto our clear glass i'll show you the opposite side right here we're prepping this also so this side's already been painted by the customer right here and we've got some nicks and dings we're bundling right here with bondo glazing buddy got it masked off we've caulked this right here it was caulk before but we just re-caulked it to make it look a lot better sanding it getting it ready to spray so we're just going to walk you through going to show you some b-roll footage of this thing turning into a pretty cool door um when it wasn't so cool to begin with so i am doing some sanding of the bond i'm going to show you i've got i'm using my ekasan sander using just half inch sponge sand sanding pad right here it's a medium fine sanding pad to uh sand my contours and profiles on here on this glass what's interesting about this door is it's a hollow core door on the front door so it's not a very well insulated i wouldn't say it's you know a very secure door but it is a 1950s duplex and they did kind of some unusual things back then we're just going with the door because the um homeowner wants to stick with this door that was originally on this house it does have a storm door on the front of it so it does help with insulation but i'll show you flip it back oh actually i'm going to be doing some sanding on the flat parts we're sanding with 320 i'm going to be using some 320 film tech right here sanding my flats [Music] when i get ready to spray this door i am going to be spraying it with a fine finish 310 tip i'll be using a tri-tech tip to spray it on the inside uh all of our trim i'm hand brushing and rolling all the trim to get that you know 1950s uh brush look that's been painted multiple times it's the um trim and door jambs and stuff that's been on this place since the 1950s and so we're using benjamin more advanced to do our hand brushing and rolling we're going to be using the benjamin moore advance to spray this door also [Music] all right so i got the inside of this door all sanded off this is a stain the stain grade side that hasn't been painted the opposite side is the exterior part of the door that's been painted wasn't painted with a great product but it's the paint's on there now this side was um you know fairly checked that we sanded it to knock down the checking now we're going to want to fill that in by rolling it with a primer to fill that in and then sand it get a nice smooth finish caulking is going to dry a little bit more but we're getting close to getting this thing finished there are some nail heads i see inside the trim here definitely this is going to be the white side right here if you don't fill these things in you're going to have some really dark shadows that are shadow that will show up so we want to get those things filled we're almost getting we're getting close to painting our door [Music] so i'm pre-priming my door so i'm using a fast dry oil primer that's a stain blocking primer also it'll keep any tannins from bleeding through get any dye migration either stain from bleeding through you definitely want to use a stain blocking primer and something that's fast dry so you can start painting it right away but you got to be really careful not to roll over it or you'll stipple it really bad a little tip is unfortunately this roller right here is not a lint free roller big mistake and it left lints all over the the door itself typically i use a woven pro roller uh 3 8 inch woven pro and woven pros from premiere paintbrush and roller they are lit free rollers and they'll never leave these lengths behind now all those are going to have to be they're going to have to be sanded out so it's just going to cause a lot of undue sanding so make sure you get yourself a lint free roller we had a lot of um things we filled in up here there was a lot of um security locks and stuff like that we filled with bondo and we're getting rid of all those or just unsightly on the door bondo'd them now we're priming over them and there the main purpose of this primer is to fill in all the checking that's on this door and the checking is like the splitting in the grain so we're filling in that checking and then it's also a door like this where we've sanded past the lacquer finish or if the lacquer finish is worn out on a white door you would get tannin bleed or dye migration on a door like this and it bleed right into your white paint we don't want that to happen so we're priming it there we go we got just a good coat of oil primer on here we're going to lightly sand that the opposite side can be primed too it's already been painted so it doesn't have to be primed if you need to do any priming on it you can flip it now since you have a primer out one of the questions is always you know what side of the door do you do with the interior color what side of the door do you do the exterior color when you open up a door the edge that you see on the inside should be the interior color when you open up the door the edge you see on the outside should be the exterior color just make sure you're not getting any runs stuff dries extremely fast once again it's a fast dry oil doesn't hang very well but dries fast and it's really nasty and stinky a little hard to flip the door because there's no hinge holes on the side that are mounted differently so i'm gonna look to see if i need to do any priming on the opposite side looks good there's nothing cut through the paint so i don't have to do any priming all right there we go we're gonna let that dry and then we're going to sand that and sand it all nice and smooth get it ready to paint so our door has had it's actually been drying for two days the primer's dry now should uh seal any type of tannin bleed or dye migration now uh we're gonna be sanding it getting off those um the lints that were left behind and i've actually decided to actually hand brush and roll this roll this door so it stays consistent with the look of how everything else in this house looks hand brushed and rolled so you'll see us let me hand brush and roll the store here shortly [Music] so i'm standing the door's got to get this uh the lens fuzz that's left behind i'm using film tech 320 to do all my flat sanding on this door now with my heck of sand three by four [Music] right [Music] so now i'm using its open cell echo silk um sanding sponge right here it's a medium fine sanding sponge to do the contours [Music] all right so we're just rolling right along here i got the first coat done on my door i just want to show you my setup i got a two gallon bucket cut in bucket with a one gallon grit i'm just using a four inch roller this time around when i primed it i didn't use a lint free roller i did talk about woven pro rollers here it is these are woven pro rollers a two pack and it tells you specifically right on the roller that it's lint free that's something you always want to get when you're dealing with um trim and really you should just always be using lit free rollers to begin with woven pro nine inch and four inch are lit free rollers i did sand the door got the lints off i missed a couple of them so i want to just talk a little bit about the brush i was using i'm using a little inch and a half fat boy brush right here it's got a nylon polyester blend i used this style of brush right here on this door because of the trim right here kind of really small and narrow and this is the easiest brush to use on something like that and i didn't want to switch brushes that do the layout right here because you can see it went really fast i just rolled it on with my four inch roller 3 8 inch woven pro and then laid it out really fast now this is going to dry probably about you know an hour so and i can just lightly hit um sand the other little lints that are off here get rid of those and do my final coat this is benjamin moore advanced which uh sprays out pretty dang well it's amazing brushing and rolling that's why we're using it in this job i typically wouldn't do a trim job spraying it on a job like this but we're using it because it brushes and rolls absolutely amazing and everything we're doing here is brushing and rolling including this door so it's going to roll out this door is going to look kind of just right in line with all the rest of the doors and trim in this house that were brushed and rolled all right we got a second coat rolled on this door with the benjamin more advanced now maybe more advanced is an amazing paint uh for brushing and rolling one of the drawbacks to the paint it's 16 hour dry time and typically you would really have to adhere to that because it doesn't sand very well if you try to sand it even around that 16 hour mark if you don't have a lot of experience if you sand and allow your sander to begin heating up the coating it's going to load up your abrasive it's going to gum up you know your surface and really mess up your surface ice i painted i brushed on the first coat and about an hour and a half later i sanded my first coat but i used i used a super fine uh half inch open cell sponge from uh unida so as an eka silk sponge and i barely lightly went over it because there's a few little um few little things on a little lengths from the roller on there that didn't get sanded after the first coat needed to sand those off and some other things that was in the paint that got left behind but i was very careful not to leave my sander in one location very quick i just went over things very fastly and you can get away with breaking some of those rules um dry time rules if you have a lot of experience if you know what you're doing if you don't you could really damage the surface i could have damaged the first coat and made a real mess that would take a lot longer to actually fix so be very careful if you're not adhering to dry time rules so i've got my second coat on there's gonna be some uh this a little light spots once again i'm probably gonna have to do a third coat and then this store is going to be ready to go it's going to have to be hung before the end of the day so we're going to allow this coat to dry hang it back up and then do our final coat while it's hanging because i don't have to just around some of the edges that i need to do a third coat with crimson secrets and forbidden bliss can't stay still don't stop that