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Ensure the connections are dry by wiping them with a paper towel. Slowly turn the shut-off valve handle counter-clockwise to turn the water back on. Listen for the tank to start filling. As it fills, carefully inspect both the upper and lower connections for any signs of dripping. Use a dry paper towel or your fingers to feel around the nuts for moisture. If you detect a leak, turn the water off and tighten the leaking nut slightly (about an eighth of a turn), then test again. Once the tank is full and the connections are dry, flush the toilet once to put the system under pressure and perform a final check for leaks.
This guide provides comprehensive, step-by-step instructions for replacing a toilet's flexible water supply line. The process involves shutting off the water, removing the old, potentially leaking or damaged line, and installing a new braided stainless steel supply line to ensure a secure, leak-free connection between the shut-off valve and the toilet tank.
You should use a braided stainless steel or polymer supply line for durability and burst protection; plastic ones can degrade. The most common size is 3/8 inch compression for the shut-off valve by 7/8 inch ballcock nut for the toilet tank, often 12-20 inches long depending on the distance between your valve and tank. Always measure your existing line or the distance to be sure.
The most critical first step is to completely shut off the water supply to the toilet. Locate the shut-off valve behind or near the base of the toilet and turn it clockwise until it stops. After shutting it off, flush the toilet to drain the tank and relieve pressure, ensuring no water will flow when you disconnect the old line.
This project is considered beginner-level and typically takes most DIYers only 15-30 minutes to complete. The most time-consuming part might be gathering your tools and preparing the work area. With the right tools and preparation, it's a quick and straightforward task.
If you notice a leak, immediately shut off the water supply to the toilet again. Check both connections to ensure they are hand-tightened, then use your adjustable wrench to give them an additional quarter to half-turn, being careful not to overtighten. Also, confirm the rubber washers are properly seated inside the nuts.
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