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Begin by attaching a flanged tailpiece to the bottom of the newly installed basket strainer, securing it with a slip nut and washer. Now, loosely assemble the rest of the pipes to 'dry fit' them. Connect the second tailpiece from the other sink bowl. Attach the continuous waste tee (or sanitary tee) to connect both tailpieces. The outlet of the tee should point toward the drain pipe in the wall. This tee fitting must have a baffled side inlet for the dishwasher hose. Attach the dishwasher drain hose to this baffled inlet and secure it with its hose clamp. Create a 'high loop' by fastening the dishwasher hose as high as possible inside the sink cabinet before it connects to the tee. Finally, connect the P-trap between the bottom of the waste tee and the drainpipe in the wall. You may need to use a hacksaw or tubing cutter to trim a tailpiece or the horizontal arm of the trap for a perfect fit. Once you confirm everything aligns correctly and slopes gently downhill towards the wall drain, hand-tighten all slip nuts, then give each a final quarter-turn with channel-lock pliers. Do not overtighten.
This project involves the complete removal of an existing garbage disposal unit and its associated mounting hardware and plumbing. It will be replaced with a standard basket strainer and a new PVC drain assembly, including a P-trap and connections for a double-bowl sink and a dishwasher.
Always shut off power to the disposal circuit at your electrical panel first. Then, turn off the hot and cold water supply valves located under the sink. Have a bucket and towels ready for any residual water that may be in the pipes.
While the listed tools are sufficient, a headlamp can greatly improve visibility in the dark cabinet space under the sink. A basin wrench can also be helpful for removing stubborn or hard-to-reach nuts from the old disposal or existing drain, though pliers often suffice.
The biggest mistake is inadequate sealing. Ensure you apply a generous, even bead of plumber's putty under the basket strainer flange for a watertight seal. Also, avoid overtightening PVC connections, as this can crack fittings; hand-tightening plus a quarter turn with pliers is usually sufficient.
While the project is beginner-friendly and 4 hours is a good estimate, budgeting extra time is wise, especially if dealing with older, stubborn plumbing connections or unexpected discoveries. Give yourself 5-6 hours to work without rush, allowing for potential trips to the hardware store if needed.
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