Connect and Tighten Second Pipe — Remove the Old Angle Stop
Part of project
How to Replace a Leaky Angle Stop (Shutoff Valve) Under Your Sink · Step 5 of 9
In this video
Take the second piece of copper pipe and repeat the previous steps. Slide the remaining nut and olive onto the pipe. Insert the pipe fully into the open end of the compression coupling. Hand-tighten the nut as much as possible. Then, using two wrenches again, hold the fitting steady (you can now grip the first tightened nut with one wrench) and use the second wrench to tighten the second nut. Again, tighten until it is firm and snug, but avoid over-tightening.
Goal: Complete the pipe joint
Used in this video
- Pipe Wrench (brand: The host calls them 'Footprints', Tool Type: Pipe wrench, Power Source: Manual) — To hold the fitting steady by gripping the first tightened nut.
- Adjustable Wrench (brand: null, Tool Type: Adjustable wrench, Power Source: Manual) — To tighten the second compression nut.
2.2M subscribers
FAQs
What's the single most important safety step to take before I even touch the leaky angle stop?
The most critical step is to shut off the main water supply to your home. This prevents potential flooding and ensures a safe working environment. Always confirm the water is off by testing a nearby faucet before proceeding with any work.
The project is listed as 'beginner' difficulty, but 3 hours seems long for a valve. Is it really that involved?
While replacing an angle stop is beginner-friendly, the 3-hour estimate accounts for prep work like gathering tools, draining lines, dealing with potential seized parts, and thorough leak testing. Taking your time ensures a proper, leak-free installation, so don't rush the process.
I see "Adjustable Wrench" and "Tongue and Groove Pliers" listed. Are these specific tools essential, or can I get by with a generic wrench set?
Yes, these specific tools are highly recommended. An adjustable wrench helps securely tighten the compression nut on the new valve without stripping it, while tongue and groove pliers (like Channellock) provide a strong grip for holding the valve or pipe steady. Using the correct tools prevents damage and ensures a tight, leak-free connection.
This project specifically mentions installing a "compression-style valve." Are there other types of angle stops, and why is this type recommended for a DIYer?
Yes, other types include soldered (sweat) and push-to-connect (SharkBite) valves. Compression-style valves are ideal for DIYers because they create a watertight seal by compressing a ferrule onto the pipe, requiring only basic hand tools and no specialized skills like soldering, making them relatively easy to install.
TranscriptHide
Auto-generated transcript. May contain errors.
Connect and Tighten Second Pipe — Remove the Old Angle Stop
Part of project
How to Replace a Leaky Angle Stop (Shutoff Valve) Under Your Sink · Step 5 of 9
In this video
Take the second piece of copper pipe and repeat the previous steps. Slide the remaining nut and olive onto the pipe. Insert the pipe fully into the open end of the compression coupling. Hand-tighten the nut as much as possible. Then, using two wrenches again, hold the fitting steady (you can now grip the first tightened nut with one wrench) and use the second wrench to tighten the second nut. Again, tighten until it is firm and snug, but avoid over-tightening.
Goal: Complete the pipe joint
Used in this video
- Pipe Wrench (brand: The host calls them 'Footprints', Tool Type: Pipe wrench, Power Source: Manual) — To hold the fitting steady by gripping the first tightened nut.
- Adjustable Wrench (brand: null, Tool Type: Adjustable wrench, Power Source: Manual) — To tighten the second compression nut.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the single most important safety step to take before I even touch the leaky angle stop?
The most critical step is to shut off the main water supply to your home. This prevents potential flooding and ensures a safe working environment. Always confirm the water is off by testing a nearby faucet before proceeding with any work.
The project is listed as 'beginner' difficulty, but 3 hours seems long for a valve. Is it really that involved?
While replacing an angle stop is beginner-friendly, the 3-hour estimate accounts for prep work like gathering tools, draining lines, dealing with potential seized parts, and thorough leak testing. Taking your time ensures a proper, leak-free installation, so don't rush the process.
I see "Adjustable Wrench" and "Tongue and Groove Pliers" listed. Are these specific tools essential, or can I get by with a generic wrench set?
Yes, these specific tools are highly recommended. An adjustable wrench helps securely tighten the compression nut on the new valve without stripping it, while tongue and groove pliers (like Channellock) provide a strong grip for holding the valve or pipe steady. Using the correct tools prevents damage and ensures a tight, leak-free connection.
This project specifically mentions installing a "compression-style valve." Are there other types of angle stops, and why is this type recommended for a DIYer?
Yes, other types include soldered (sweat) and push-to-connect (SharkBite) valves. Compression-style valves are ideal for DIYers because they create a watertight seal by compressing a ferrule onto the pipe, requiring only basic hand tools and no specialized skills like soldering, making them relatively easy to install.
Video Transcript
(577 characters)Hide
Video Transcript
(577 characters)Transcript may be auto-generated and contain errors.