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Install New Assembly — Connect Faucet Plumbing

Intermediate6 hours

Part of project

Shower Valve Installation: A Complete DIY Guide with Plumbing Tips · Step 5 of 6

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In this video

Fit the new assembly into place. First, install the compression coupling (Dresser fitting) to connect the new galvanized pipe to the existing cut galvanized pipe. Ensure the rubber gaskets are properly seated and tighten the nuts on both ends firmly. Then, push the SharkBite valve onto the existing copper pipe until it is fully seated. This push-to-connect fitting requires no soldering or special tools.

Goal: Connect the new pipe section to the existing plumbing.

Used in this video

  • Pipe WrenchTightening the compression coupling and the dielectric union.
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AdamDIY

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FAQs

I'm hesitant about soldering copper pipes. Are there alternative connection methods for a shower valve that are easier for a DIYer?

Yes, for those uncomfortable with soldering, push-to-connect fittings (like SharkBite) or crimp connections are excellent alternatives. While often more expensive than traditional copper fittings, they significantly simplify the installation process by eliminating the need for a torch and solder, making them very DIY-friendly. Ensure you purchase fittings compatible with your pipe type (PEX, copper, CPVC).

What crucial safety precautions should I take, especially when using a torch for soldering near walls or inside the shower enclosure?

When soldering, always have a fire extinguisher or a bucket of water nearby, and use a heat shield or flame protector to protect surrounding studs and finishes from the torch's flame. Ensure the work area is well-ventilated and that pipes are completely drained and dry before applying heat. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, including safety glasses and gloves.

What is the most common mistake DIYers make during a shower valve installation, and how can I avoid it?

A common mistake is not fully draining the pipes before attempting to solder, leading to steam pockets that prevent a good joint. To avoid this, ensure the main water supply is off and all nearby faucets are open to completely empty the lines. Another error is not properly using plumber's tape or thread sealant on threaded connections, which can lead to leaks.

The estimated time is 6 hours, but I'm a beginner. How much extra time should I realistically budget, and what part typically takes the longest?

As a beginner, it's wise to budget 8-10 hours or even a full weekend, especially if you're new to soldering or working in tight spaces. The steps that often consume the most time are ensuring all old components are fully removed without damage, accurately measuring and cutting new pipes, achieving clean solder joints, and thoroughly testing for leaks before closing up the wall.

Transcript
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Okay, so what I'm at right now this right here is what's going into the dresser fitting or the coupling for the galvanized pipe I had to cut this one off this sucker took me at least 15 minutes I actually ran out of the blade. I wanted to just do it with a hexaw Teflon tape is on the elbow the elbow this ain't this is just dry fitting right now because I got a measure where I'm cutting the other copper pipe The dielectric union is what's gonna be for the gal in between the galvanized and in between the copper pipe What I would do is if you're doing this and it's between the box your electric box and your main ground Get a green jumper and screw it into the pipe on one side It's screw into the pipe on the other side and jump it with another ground I really don't know if these right here the shark bites are a round proof either But these are so simple you slide it right in you put the clip in and it's done It does spin. I don't know how it keeps the water out, but it does it does so right now I'm gonna before I finish and put it on the Teflon tape and everything on the rest of it I'm gonna drive fit this into the union and find that where I'm gonna have to cut the other shark bite and then Take it apart right here put this on the other side and then the union's gonna close them together all right I'll be right back with you And there you have it mobs your uncle. There's a compression coupling galvanized pipe It was leaking at the original elbow right here right upon the top treads Teflon tape Teflon tape These are just rubber rubber gaskets on the top of that coupling right there. See the coupling right there That's just regular Couplings on there. You know what I don't like about this is with the shark bites and with this the pipe is not Solid pipe although it was not leaking at all When from the coupling I cut a clear pipe right there in half put the galvanized coupling in there or a dresser fitting Three-quartered galvanized dielectric union. I sweated this right here put these together one thing. I say do not lose that gasket Into shark bites this shark barrier here if you see I actually dropped it in the correct and it's still worse completely All the water's open on no leaks now. I got to actually shut it off so I can go fix the upstairs. All right. Bye

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