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Preparation and Removal of Old Unit — Replace the Garbage Disposal (If Necessary)

Beginner3 hours

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How to Fix a Leaky Garbage Disposal (Bottom Leak) · Step 3 of 3

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In this video

The first step is to prepare for the replacement by removing the old unit. The narrator shows the old, leaking dispenser which has already been removed from under the sink. To do this, you must first unplug the unit from the electrical outlet and shut off the water supply line that feeds it. Place a bucket and towels under the sink to catch any residual water from the lines. Disconnect the pressure-fit water tubes from the old unit. If access is tight, you may need to disconnect adjacent plumbing, as the narrator did with the garbage disposal drain, to physically remove the old dispenser from the cabinet.

Goal: Remove Old Dispenser

  • Have a bucket and towels ready before disconnecting water lines to manage spills.

Used in this video

  • Bucket (Tool Type: Bucket, Size/Capacity: Small) — Catching residual water from the disconnected lines.
  • Pliers (Tool Type: Pliers, Jaw Size/Opening: Medium) · optional — Potentially needed to loosen tight hose clamps or connections.
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FAQs

Why is it so important to disconnect power before working on the garbage disposal, and how do I do it correctly?

Disconnecting power prevents accidental electrocution or injury from the disposal blades, which is paramount for safety. Locate your home's electrical panel, identify the breaker for your kitchen or disposal, and switch it to the "off" position. Always double-check with a non-contact voltage tester on the disposal's wiring before touching anything.

How can I accurately identify the source of the leak at the bottom of my garbage disposal to know if I need a repair or replacement?

First, thoroughly dry the entire unit and the surrounding area. Then, briefly run water into the sink and look for immediate drips. If water leaks directly from the disposal's body (housing), it indicates an internal crack requiring replacement. Leaks from connections or the mounting collar can often be fixed by tightening or reapplying plumber's putty.

Are there any specific tools or materials that are absolutely essential for this repair, especially if I have to replace the unit?

Yes, a basin wrench is crucial for accessing and tightening the mounting nut in tight spaces under the sink. You'll also need screwdrivers, pliers, and plumber's putty for sealing the sink flange. If replacing, ensure your new disposal fits and you have a compatible adapter, like the KRAUS GDA-1, if required for your sink opening.

What should I do if I've tightened everything and applied plumber's putty, but my garbage disposal is still leaking from the bottom?

If external tightening and sealing efforts fail, it strongly suggests an internal crack in the disposal's housing or a deteriorated internal seal that cannot be repaired. In this common scenario, the entire garbage disposal unit needs to be replaced. Internal leaks indicate irreparable damage to the appliance itself.

Transcript
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All right, we're replacing the old unit with the new unit. The old unit had begun to leak about two years ago and we had to unplug it and turn it off because we were using that to do it. Now this is a hot water dispenser so it was really nice to have. We get instant hot water and instant cold water from these taps. The cold water one continued to work after we unplugged the hot water one because it has a bypass line. But we like hot water too and we're tired of using the catalyst over here to get hot water. So now I got on warranty actually, I had to pay a little, I had to pay some money, but I got like a discount because the warranty headaches, the thing broke down like a month the warranty expired. So then that's why I didn't rush to get a new one. I wanted to make sure that the engineering, the new one would be better. I looked all around, tried to find a replacement, couldn't find anything quite suitable at the price I wanted to pay. Notice the difference here. This one here and it screw in the bottom of it and this one doesn't. So that could very well be related to the reason why this thing expanded under pressure and eventually leaked, whereas this one here may have designed something around that so it's not possible to do that. The installation of this is really simple because all you got is like these pressure fit tubes, which already have of course from the previous installation down below. And since the two units are exactly the same, I should have no problem mounting and pushing these tubes in.

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